Hi. Anyone else having this issue? I only have 4000k and have had to get my oil changed twice in the last two weeks because it had over 1 litre of gas in the oil. They have replaced the throddle body and that didn't make a difference. They are ordering a fuel pump now. I am feeling I totally got a lemon and cannot imagine the damage it has already done to my vehicle.
Gas in oil
Tara Nelson
41 - 60 of 98 Posts
Thanks Mainia1, some people, have no idea what detonation is, let alone to what it sounds like. Valve clatter is not pinging either. Pinging and detonation (engine knocking) are different and caused by the same issues.
This is a two good explanations; https://www.enginelabs.com/news/detonation-what-causes-it-and-how-to-control-it-using-efi/
https://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine-knock1.htm
Blessings and Peace
yes I have read all the related threads with interest. Thanks
I would also be very interested if Tara Nelson has found a solution.
We have a new Kona and are experiencing the same problem. It started to run rough and we took it in. There was a high level of fuel in the oil.
They changed spark plugs and changed the oil. Now 1 week later the oil level is 6mm above full after just a few days, we checked it a week ago after getting it back from the dealership and it was exactly on full
We have a new Kona and are experiencing the same problem. It started to run rough and we took it in. There was a high level of fuel in the oil.
They changed spark plugs and changed the oil. Now 1 week later the oil level is 6mm above full after just a few days, we checked it a week ago after getting it back from the dealership and it was exactly on full
Joined
·
2,007 Posts
Is your motor a 1.6T? If so you will get the worst dilution just because with a turbo they are dumping loads more fuel to stop detonation and LSPI. Run in sport mode 100% of the time. This will help a non-turbo 2.0 motor too. This will get you outside of the the rich area where they are dumping an overly rich ratio of fuel in the 1,500 to 2,500/2700 rpm range. If you can reduce it by an amount, you will still have it but it will be tolerable to your motor.
I knew when I bought my 1.6T Kona that I was going to have fuel dilution/and carbon in the ports that would have to be blasted with walnuts. I have been doing oil analysis from the start of my ownership, some as early in a new oil change as 1,000 miles. This time, I changed over to running in sport mode only while in Minnesota winter. I have pasted my 1,000 mark and am going to test at 2,000 miles that should be at the end of the month. I have cut my fuel level from at least a 1/2 qt raise to a 1/4 qt raise at 1000 miles. It has been said that " GDI motor" will level off and stay at a certain % of fuel dilution. Well, that could be 10% or 4%, that is why you have to try to take the rich fuel lower rpm dumping out of the picture that is bad in a turbo motor and somewhat bad in a non-turbo GDI motor. I will have to wait to the end of the month to find out if my hunch was right.
.
If the thermostat opens at 180 and you're driving in 20 degrees below 0.. you're never going to warm up enough to burn off any contaminants..
Staying in rich fuel maps longer .. Turbo motors are also equipped for better cooling... Spring is near.. but 21 degrees here by morning..
Staying in rich fuel maps longer .. Turbo motors are also equipped for better cooling... Spring is near.. but 21 degrees here by morning..
yes I have a 1.6 Turbo.
I may get them to change the oil again and then try running in sport mode to see if that helps....
but I am hoping for a more permanent solution. I am not engine savvy but would think they could engineer a solution.
Needing to worry about the temp outside and what mode is being run sounds a bit less than ideal for a newly engineered vehicle.
Thanks for the comments
I may get them to change the oil again and then try running in sport mode to see if that helps....
but I am hoping for a more permanent solution. I am not engine savvy but would think they could engineer a solution.
Needing to worry about the temp outside and what mode is being run sounds a bit less than ideal for a newly engineered vehicle.
Thanks for the comments
Joined
·
811 Posts
I have the same issue and they change my high pressure oil fuel pump. Too early to tell if it solved my problem. Sport mode made no difference on the gas in oil issue.
https://www.hyundaikonaforum.com/fo...m/forum/10-engine-technical-discussion/1966-oil-level-after-extreme-cold-3.html
https://www.hyundaikonaforum.com/fo...m/forum/10-engine-technical-discussion/1966-oil-level-after-extreme-cold-3.html
Joined
·
7 Posts
New with questions
Hello,
We have been searching for a new car to get after my wife's excellent condition 2003 Sonata (68,000 miles) was totaled in her work parking lot. We have narrowed it to a few, with a "Kona Limited" AWD near the top of our list. One of my concerns is the gas in the oil I've seen discussed here. Is this a widespread condition? Seems to be a big pain in the butt. Any input would be much appreciated.
:smile:
Hello,
We have been searching for a new car to get after my wife's excellent condition 2003 Sonata (68,000 miles) was totaled in her work parking lot. We have narrowed it to a few, with a "Kona Limited" AWD near the top of our list. One of my concerns is the gas in the oil I've seen discussed here. Is this a widespread condition? Seems to be a big pain in the butt. Any input would be much appreciated.
:smile:
A few people on here have reported the issue.. Seems those who have it, have experienced the problem under winter conditions.. There are a couple of threads on this, do a search
That won’t solve the fuel from diluting the oil.. Fuel being directly injected into the cylinder is also used to cool
The charge temps to control detonation.. running rich allows some of the fuel to seep past the rings and mix
With the oil.. those running in cold climates seem to be affected the most by this.. in theory, a catch can will help
Catch the oil/oil vapors being recycled, from getting to the intake valves causing them to collect on the valves as sludge and buildup..
Joined
·
52 Posts
Our 2018 Kona Limited FWD will be a year old in April. Over 4,000 miles, had an oil change at 2,700 with synthetic. No fuel in the gas. I love to rev it high at times. The DCT is great, my wife can drive it like a regular automatic, and I love the manual mode.
My favorite car at all times, after the VW GTI. I am 72 year old.
The Kona has a 10 year, 100 K engine warranty. I'm more concerned about the price of beer than my engine dying on me.
By the way the warranty on our 2015 Santa Fe Sport was extended to 120 K, for the first owners, like us, and for ALL subsequent owners as well.
Stop worrying and drive the piss out of them. They are good cars.
My favorite car at all times, after the VW GTI. I am 72 year old.
The Kona has a 10 year, 100 K engine warranty. I'm more concerned about the price of beer than my engine dying on me.
By the way the warranty on our 2015 Santa Fe Sport was extended to 120 K, for the first owners, like us, and for ALL subsequent owners as well.
Stop worrying and drive the piss out of them. They are good cars.
Joined
·
2,007 Posts
I am doing great with my oil dilution for the last 1,650 miles on the new oil change. I will be doing an oil analysis at oil life of 2,000 coming up. Almost all of this oil where in below zero temps. I am holding at 1/4 qt above the full line and have been there almost the whole time. This is a far departure from 3/4 of a qt 500 miles into a new oil change and that was late fall, early winter where temps were mild. I consider my problem solved and in the safe/normal GDI turbo category. I have 6,600 miles on the car.
Joined
·
115 Posts
My first few oil changes had worse dilution than the latest one. I'll keep an eye on the issue and continue to update on here if I see any major changes. First few cycles left me at about 1/4 to 1/2 above 'full' on the dipstick after ~4000 mi. Last change (after the coldest temps of the year) was only at about 1/4 above 'full' - this change I only filled to 3/4ths the way to 'full' and I switched to T-GDI formulated non-synthetic. If it goes above the 'full' line before my next change I'll be a little frustrated, but it seems like the dilution is calming down with more miles, for some reason.
At 17,500 miles so far.
At 17,500 miles so far.
Joined
·
2,007 Posts
Joined
·
115 Posts
I started out running Castrol GTX Magnatec full synthetic, latest change I switched to Castrol GTX Ultraclean standard oil - apparently its better formulated to prevent LSPI? I dunno, it does seem to run better cold with this oil, if only slightly.
Oh, and I started out using Wix XP oil filters, but I switched to standard Wix, keeping track of the rate that the oil gets dirty, but since I've been changing every 4k, doing an XP filter felt like overkill
Joined
·
2,007 Posts
So you are running this? or does it say 45% sludge then industry standards and the label has nothing about a turbo in it?
https://www.castrol.com/content/dam...global/home/test-images/gtx_5qt_ultraclean_5w30_300_api.jpg.img.1024.medium.jpg
https://www.castrol.com/content/dam...global/home/test-images/gtx_5qt_ultraclean_5w30_300_api.jpg.img.1024.medium.jpg
Joined
·
115 Posts
Running the pictured oil. Just picked it up after reading about them rolling out the updated stuff for better LSPI prevention
Joined
·
2,007 Posts
That pictured oil a semi-synthetic oil FYI, and most likely on the higher side of having more synthetic then most semi-synthetics that have a thimble of synthetic in them. A group 3 synthetic as it were. Still not near as much synthetic a regular full synthetic. I myself would rather run a full synthetic in any turbo car. There is just too much heat to gamble with a semi-synthetic.
41 - 60 of 98 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
