Hyundai Kona Forum banner

61 - 80 of 93 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Lol! I just reread this whole thread.....that was entertaining.....and informative. @Mainia1 to save me some time searching can you please remind us exactly what oil and filter choices you’ve settled on please and thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,406 Posts
Lol! I just reread this whole thread.....that was entertaining.....and informative. @Mainia1 to save me some time searching can you please remind us exactly what oil and filter choices you’ve settled on please and thanks.

Now you have my head racing back to an area I am flip flopping back and forth.:wink:


Right now I am running Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 and I am 100 miles away from pulling a 2,000 mile oil analysis. I am really not worried about the fuel dilution problem anymore since fixing it through a process and changing over to only using sport mode. Now it just is curiosity of wear metals. I have 15 qt's left of the ESP but am teetering on using that oil for winter oil. I am tinking and only thinking on going to Redline 5w-30 Euro that has their lowest calcium of 1,650 ppm and with the moly and the ester that are both highly LSPI reducers, it would be a safe non-LSPI approved oil. Their 5w-40 oil which I would rather run for it's higher viscosity has higher calcium.

All none racing Mobil1 oils are safe to use and are non-LSPI oils even if they are not approved for LSPI. Since they have all of their formulas with very low calcium, most in the 1,050 to 1,250 ppm. They switched over to the low calcium formula when all others had no clue about LSPI dangers. Their internal testing sure knew about it earlier then everyone else.

Then there is Amsoil 5w-40 Euro ( all their oils are LSPI approved) and Pennzoil 5w-40 L but I think it has a higher calcium ppm.

Then their is the TSB Hyundai put out that all of their 2.0 liter turbo motors need to switch over to 5w-40 full time. THAT"S TELLING. And they gave NO SPEC on what certifications or approvals to use for that viscosity class. So technically, ANY 5w-40 oil has been approved for use by Hyundai. Our Kona turbos are speced for 5w-30 ACEA A5/B5 OR 5w-40 no spec. Their 5w-30 spec is for mileage, not engine longevity. That why I don't go by it. I will take an oil that has VW, Mercedes-Benz and Porsche oil certification any day over Hyundai's mundane specs.


For me, I just can run the thinner API 5w-30 SN Plus oil. In the winter I will run the Mobil 1 ESP since it is on the ticker side of the 5w-30 scale. Not with Hyundai's boundary layer oil issue hitting us all in the face, and Hyundai's own changing of viscosity to a thick one to try to save their engines. While the 1.6T as is not known to have as bad a problem as their 2.0T, having a bearing saving buffer zone is a smart move. So following Hyundai's own lead going to a 5w-40 just makes logical sense. What do they know they are not telling us.



Now you have me chasing my tail again.....I will have to concentrate on which 5w-40 that I feel is LSPI safe ( low calcium) I will run in the summer since again since we are coming into that season. More research I guess trying to find a low calcium 5w-40 with VW, MB, and Porsche speced oil that holds a 40 weight grade and doesn't shear like Mobil1 0w-40 to a 30 weight grade right away.


.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,406 Posts
Correction



For me, I just can run the thinner API 5w-30 SN Plus oil.



It should be


For me, I just can't run the thinner API 5w-30 SN Plus oil.


.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Wow! @Mainia1 big thanks for that response. Keep us posted on the upcoming oil specs from analysis and your thoughts going forward. Guess we shouldn’t change the theme of this thread from gas in oil to oils and filters but what filter(s) do you recommend with those oils?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,406 Posts
I run Fram Ultra's and only Ultra's. Don't run any other Fram then the Ultra, the others suck. I have spend some time talking to the main Fram tech guy and have also moved up the chain a couple of steps and talked to a guy who works with the engineering dept. So I feel comfortable the Fram Ultra's perform in our engines. Fram sent back their Hyundai speced filters for a redesign refresh about 4-5 years ago when they saw Hyundai having oil issues. Hyundai pushes their filters as a must have, and say Ultra's can reduce the oil flow. Well, Fram has documentation their filters flow better or the same in all aspects of their testing. They say that they are denying because of the filter ....I have Fram's testing to back up they don't have a viable claim one phone call away.

Here in the USA we have the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act so we have the right to run other filters without the manufacture playing games with us. You guys in Canada seem to be screwed after hearing how Hyundai screws with them with demanding oil receipts and charging $800 to $1,000 to pull apart the motor to see if it is sludged up when their crap designed motors blow from a 10 year old and ONGOING "boundary layer oil issue". When clearly they can find out if your engine has a sludge issue by R&R the valve cover and looking at the valve train for sludge for $100. Other high end filters can work too , but I have the whole engineering dept behind me if there is a warranty issue. I have all my engineers/connections lined up if a warranty issue arises and Hyundai wants to they to push me "the customer" around with their usual denials. Like they tried to do with my Elantra GT motor.


.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
That pictured oil a semi-synthetic oil FYI, and most likely on the higher side of having more synthetic then most semi-synthetics that have a thimble of synthetic in them. A group 3 synthetic as it were. Still not near as much synthetic a regular full synthetic. I myself would rather run a full synthetic in any turbo car. There is just too much heat to gamble with a semi-synthetic.
Ah, interesting. I always assumed that if it had any synthetic it would be broadly advertised as at least "synthetic blend". Good to know.

And yeah, I'll probably end up going back to full synth unless I see noticeable improvements re: fuel dilution and oil life. I really only grabbed this one because I was looking for the updated LPSI preventive oil and they didn't have the full synthetics on the shelf yet
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,190 Posts
Only targeting the northern states with the extra warranty and fixes.. though others in warm climates have
Seen similarities... looks like the same issue indeed.. Honda also suggested using sport mode and avoiding
Short runs.. inherent issues with GDI that the industry is still trying to deal with.. Some fords and Toyota’s have
Both port and direct injection.. complex and pricey.. yet GDI has become the standard in new cars..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,406 Posts
Only targeting the northern states with the extra warranty and fixes.. though others in warm climates have
Seen similarities... looks like the same issue indeed.. Honda also suggested using sport mode and avoiding
Short runs.. inherent issues with GDI that the industry is still trying to deal with.. Some fords and Toyota’s have
Both port and direct injection.. complex and pricey.. yet GDI has become the standard in new cars..

Hyundai has 2 injectors per cylinder in Asia for the 2019 model year. So we should see it in 2020 in the US and Canada....Hopefully.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hello. My 2018 turbo Kona is also making oil. "Fuel in the oil". The dipstick reads over full and it smells like gas. I'm on my second oil change from new and both times the dipstick has been over the full mark not long after every oil change. I'm going to check our local dealer to see if its a common issue with this turbo engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
209 Posts
This gas in oil seems to be an issue across many brands that use the newer GDI engines. But it doesn't seem to affect all engines, so still might be some kind of defect to do with the FI.

Sort of reminds me when 0W-20 oils were first used to help meet the fuel consumption requirements in the US. Some engines burned oil, but not all. Eventually it was fixed with better piston rings.

Kind of ironic that we used to have the problem of high oil consumption now being replaced by the opposite, ie oil levels rising.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Hi everyone. Well - the high pressure fuel pump they put in my vehicle last year solved the problems. I had no gas in the oil until a very cold snap a week and a half ago. Now I am back to having it checked weekly to see if it has returned or not. I am hoping that there is no long term affects from the gas. I do not know much about vehicles......and paying a lot and having issues is very frustrating!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,406 Posts
I did extensive oil testing on my Kona, and I came out with an final plan to follow. A Honda 1.5T guy on Bob's the oil guy site and he has the bad oil problem too since his Honda 1.5T is said to be the worst car/crossover to date. We are both above 5%, and what you find out after extensive testing, there is no more wear then a port injected motor. We find you gain semi quick and it levels off. I use my oil draw pump to suck out the high oil and I just checked my oil tonight and I gained a 1/8th of an inch in 1,000 miles after gaining an inch in the first 1,000 miles. Basically, you change your oil at 3,000 miles in the winter, pull out the high oil at 1,000 miles, and don't spend anytime worrying about it, since you don't have anymore wear then a normal car. I still check every other oil change and it has been fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Add me to the list it appears that I'm getting gas in my oil I changed my oil at 1000 miles it was at the full mark I now have 1800 miles and i checked my oil today and it is above the full mark by about an eighth of an inch and it smells like gas. This is on a 2020 limited 1.6T. I did check it a couple of times a day or two after changing it and it was at the full mark. I will be keeping a close look at it.
 
61 - 80 of 93 Posts
Top