The dealer and the manual ( Canadian) recommend regular -- 87 here.

The European manual said premium???

I was surprised that a turbo is good with regular.

 

Running 87 in Top Tier, I did try an experiment going with mid grade 89 after 2 tanks mine did not like it even lost a few mpgs and honestly did not feel a difference. My last car only could use 91-93 but was the H6 in the Subaru.
As far as it is just how cars are being tuned to except the 87 even with a Turbo, the ECU can do good job of utilizing it along the knock sensors.
Even the Ecoboost fords and now the new Subaru Ascent 2.4T will run on 87,only high compression engines need the 91-93.

I was still in a little shock reading that this engine ran on 87 and for me it is a big savings coming down from premium.

 

Regular Per the manual

 

Ethel for me right now with Prolong oil additive.

 

JRKona , what are running for oil and filter?


I will be draining the factory fill the minute I come home. I will be running Mobil 1 Extended 5-30 with 1 Qt being Redline 0w-40 to get more Ester into the mix. I will also change out the OEM filter for a Fram Ultra. Getting rid of the "Swiss Cheese" OEM filter material/filter.


.

 

Use the Hyundai Filters and ask them for a synthetic upgrade at your next service. Use what they have available, don't go off on your own. It could cost you your warranty. I'll also going to be using a K & N Air Filter until the SYSTEM Upgrade Intake is here and installed.

 

NOPE, the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act protects you here. My 2013 Elantra had the "Hyundai Tick of Death", and received a new long block. I had a Fram Ultra on and they said to test it they would have to put their filter on and they suggested to use their OEM because they were having tick problems. I said go a head and test but after I am putting a new Ultra on.

I told them 4 years ago Fram went back to the drawing board on ALL their oil filters that relate to Hyundai to increase can thickness and copy the specs of the OEM because Hyundai increased oil pressure on their engines because "they can't build a normal well running motor with out destroying itself" (1.6T is their only good motor besides the "N" motor that Beraman had them fix for his N series) Ha Ha Ha. That is the only reason I re bought a Hyundai, because I have a "chance" with the 1.6 T motor.The motor problem are THEIR design problem and it NOTHING to do with a filter, even though I want the backing of Fram and their R&D on the redesigned filter to back my case as it has at least locally. Plus I have access to oil engineers to back any issues with "oil issues". They would never win in court by putting "far better" oil in then they provide. Plus again, the Magnuseon-Moss Warranty Act lets you put oil that meets specs in with no voiding of your warranty. How could it ....you are putting in better oil then they provide.

I did do some research and Hyundai does add extra Moly to their factory fill that comes from Quaker State. It is just a common cheap Group 3 oil it looks, so I want to get some better oil in there ( sorta Group 4 with the Extended Mobil 1) with the Turbo. Adding the Redline gets some extra Moly in there.

In NO WAY should you be using 5w-20 oil in a turbo motor. Bare minimum is 5-30 ( as speced) and just remember Mobil 1 0w-40 is so light it really is a 0-35 and shears right away to a 0w-30 or less.


The last thing I would ever do is add a K&N air filter. Modern OEM air filter boxes have adequate air flow, and K&N's let WAY too much dirt into the engine that do through the swiss cheese filter media. I would suggest to skip that one, but it's your car.





.

 

Use the Hyundai Filters and ask them for a synthetic upgrade at your next service. Use what they have available, don't go off on your own. It could cost you your warranty. I'll also going to be using a K & N Air Filter until the SYSTEM Upgrade Intake is here and installed. The Prolong gives me the edge that is needed. It's a great product and works extremely well. I've run it in all my vehicles for a long time. It does exactly what it says it does and there is an added engine warranty with them if you register and use the product.

 

K & N does a better job at filtering then the OEM unit. Nuff said. Prolong is not Moly, or teflon, it's a micro lubricant. I see that you unaware of the product. I've used it in all my automobiles, some with over 200K and still running strong.

The Magnuseon-Moss Warranty Act doesn't allow you to do anything for the individual specifically. It simply says; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson–Moss_Warranty_Act . Think you'd better read it again.

Good luck with telling Hyundai you're not meeting or adhering to their warranty requirements. It the motor is damaged and they find out you're not sticking to the requirements of the warranty, you'll have a very hard time in getting the auto repaired under warranty. There has been a quite a few instances where warranty claims have been denied due to these very reason. You'd better do some research.

Everyone has access to Oil Lab testing, they're on the Internet by the hand full. You can get your oil test quite easily but doesn't mean anything to Hyundai and their warranty. You'll find it much easier adhering to their warranty requirements then going it alone. Rather you're right or wrong, is not the issue. If you don't follow their requirements, you run the risk of a warranty claim denial never-the-less.

In truth you don't know if you or they would win or not in court. You can't read the future, let alone acquire the legal backing Hyundai is able to muster and put forth. The burden of proof is solely on you alone, not Hyundai. You're just wishful thinking and that can get you into all sorts of trouble.

I've already checked with Hyundai regarding the K & N and they are fine with it. It's the only actual authorized filter upgrade approved across the majority of manufacturer specifications. You need to do some research on the K & N and it's actual specifications. I can see you haven't.

One of the main reasons people select the Hyundai is; their best in the country warranty and price point. They are a solid built auto with a great reputation for longevity.

Do as you wish but you alone will suffer the consequences of your actions solely.:wink:

 

K & N does a better job at filtering then the OEM unit. Nuff said. Prolong is not Moly, or teflon, it's a micro lubricant. I see that you unaware of the product. I've used it in all my automobiles, some with over 200K and still running strong.

The Magnuseon-Moss Warranty Act doesn't allow you to do anything for the individual specifically. It simply says; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act . Think you'd better read it again.

Good luck with telling Hyundai you're not meeting or adhering to their warranty requirements. It the motor is damaged and they find out you're not sticking to the requirements of the warranty, you'll have a very hard time in getting the auto repaired under warranty. There has been a quite a few instances where warranty claims have been denied due to these very reason. You'd better do some research.

Everyone has access to Oil Lab testing, they're on the Internet by the hand full. You can get your oil test quite easily but doesn't mean anything to Hyundai and their warranty. You'll find it much easier adhering to their warranty requirements then going it alone. Rather you're right or wrong, is not the issue. If you don't follow their requirements, you run the risk of a warranty claim denial never-the-less.

In truth you don't know if you or they would win or not in court. You can't read the future, let alone acquire the legal backing Hyundai is able to muster and put forth. The burden of proof is solely on you alone, not Hyundai. You're just wishful thinking and that can get you into all sorts of trouble.

I've already checked with Hyundai regarding the K & N and they are fine with it. It's the only actual authorized filter upgrade approved across the majority of manufacturer specifications. You need to do some research on the K & N and it's actual specifications. I can see you haven't.

One of the main reasons people select the Hyundai is; their best in the country warranty and price point. They are a solid built auto with a great reputation for longevity.

Do as you wish but you alone will suffer the consequences of your actions solely.:wink:

I am aware of the ACT and do oil testing on a regular basis for my work through Polaris Labs and have had some good time talking with R&D oil engineers. In fact the factory fill will have a pull and sent to the lab, a local lab on my stuff. I use the largest CAT dealer in Minneapolis since I don't have to pay shipping and they have a nice lab.

I have done my research and you would not catch me using a K&N oil impregnated air filter to save my sole. I know I ran them for years and always questioned the dirt residue in my Weber intake manifold. Then top off the increase that shows up in the oil analysis. You go right ahead. Now oil filter yes those are up to snuff.


Air Filter Comparison Study - GM Truck Central


Ahhhh Hyundai has been known as they tried to do with me on "renigging" on their warranty. It took me 3 times to get them to fix my 14,000 mile Elantra GT from the "Hyundai Tick of Death". They said that horrible tick was normal , I finally said, "here is the car, don't give it back until you fix it". 4 hours later and the 3rd obfuscation they said I need a new motor.

The tick on my car was from the lifters and I tracked that down by my stethoscope. Not to mention my dealer had 50 plus cars sitting in back because Hyundai doesn't know how to design motors and there is another guy on a forum who Hyundai dealer has 200 cars with bad blocks. The only reason I bought the Kona was by some freak luck the 1.6 T doesn't have an overly high rebuild rate. From increasing oil pressure across their engine line up to bad piston coating, to too thin of big end piston rod and bad piston pin issues I think you failed on your research on the matter.

I had a hobby Audi repair shop and was also a engine builder of street and race motors when I was younger. My street car was a VW Sirocco with a detuned Bertils SuperVEE ( mini Indy car) motor with a custom fly cut stroker crank I made, dual side draft Weber carbs, 12 point roll cage, fuel cell and race coil over Bilstiens Nitrous Oxide. That was my street car.

As far as winning in court, Hyundai has to prove what you did made it fail, they are not going to spend a dime on going to court and go through all the legal hassle and money because I ran better oil then what they put in the car. NOW if you put in engine oil in the DCT then yes they will. You are dead WRONG ,the burden of proof is SOLELY on Hyundai. That is what gives the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act TEETH!!! You again failed on your research.

All this BS forum "Fear Dogma" that has no logic behind it other then fear by, in some cases "ONLY by the manual" fear mongers and in some cases guys that have never picked up a wrench.

Who said anything about Prolong? Nano particle oil additives, yea used them and know about them.

 

How often do you change your oil?
The maintenance log I have for 1.6T says replace or change at 3000 if usage is severe. But the normal replace is at 6000.
The Prolong additive... is that an oil additive?

 

Yes Prolong is an oil additive a micro lubricant. http://prolong.com/ . You can read and decide for yourself.

However lets keep this discussion on track and get back to "What octane gas are running for the 1.6 T engine?" Sorry about the deviation.:wink::grin:

 

Sorry

 

No it's ok, I wasn't referring to you but to me. No apology necessary. I just like to keep on topic and not stray very far off. It was me who went off topic.:grin:

 

we only have 95 & 98 over here... I allways get the 98

 

Learn from your mistakes!

Again you may have read it but you're not that familiar with the Act as you believe you are. However I'm not hear to argue the point. You're welcome to believe what you want. You can do anything you desire with your Hyundai, it's solely your choice. However, your fear mongering from past experiences with your Elantra and over what oil to put in your Hyundai is again, your choice. I could care less about your past exploits with hobby mechanics your problems with your Elantra and I dare say, no one else is either and it won't mean a thing when presenting your side to the courts.:wink: I see that you're back at the same watering hole and your personal pride getting in the way of; clear thinking.

When you take a major manufacture to task on a warranty claim, you have to have carry the burden of proof or should I say, your lawyer does. YOU have to file the suit, the federal governemnt isn't going to represent you. The Act only protects the individual, if the individual consumer is in line with the requirements of the warranty which is being denied. It simply sets Federal guidelines & requirements for manufacturers to follow.

I'll bring your attention to one specific part of the Act,

The federal minimum standards for full warranties are waived if the warrantor can show that the problem associated with a warranted consumer product was caused by damage while in the possession of the consumer, or by unreasonable use, including a failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance.

Believe me they can if you are outside those guidelines and warranty requirements. It's been done thousands if not tens of thousands of times, since the enactment of the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act.

Be my guest when and if it happens please, press the test. You won't have a leg to stand on, nor the money or legal power to refute it. Hence, the burden of proof in on you, as I stated before. Definitively, you must show and prove to the court, you have provided the reasonable and necessary maintenance along with reasonable use and not strayed from the manufactures warranty guidelines, not Hyundai. But be assured, they will have their guns load and to bear when the necessary time comes.

So go ahead and keep with the,"wishful and presumptive thinking," I've already told you, YOU can't foresee the future. However, common sense should tell you; "you're barking up the wrong tree!" Go ahead, take the low road and it maybe to your own detriment in the long run. Just as it nearly was in the in the past, with your Elantra and shaped your present thinking. You should have learned something then, instead of being hard headed. It's expedient for most to follow the manufacturer guidelines. When YOU don't everything necessary to adhere, it goes against YOU and YOU only! No one is going to be there to hold your hand and make it all better. Also keeping in mind; there is always three sides to a story; your's theirs and the truth.

I suppose you can at least remember the; The Path of least resistance, or maybe that's wishful thinking on my part. What do you gain by being hard hearted and stubborn? Where does it leave you? There is a time and place for everything but you must be intelligent enough to understand; which battles to fight and which ones to walk away from.. Again "common sense," should ring fairly clear in this scenario. There's an ole saying, "Be banging (one's) head against a brick wall, it feel so good when you stop.."

Do as you wish but keep this in the back of your mind as well, if you dare.:wink:

Keeping with the thought, this is a presumptive discussion only.:grin:

This Air Filter Comparison Study - GM Truck Central is a personal unsubstantiated opinion from a Forum, nuff said! You might want to try again but whatever helps you sleep at night.

 

Again you may have read it but you're not that familiar with the Act as you believe you are. However I'm not hear to argue the point. You're welcome to believe what you want. You can do anything you desire with your Hyundai, it's solely your choice. However, your fear mongering from past experiences with your Elantra and over what oil to put in your Hyundai is again, your choice. I could care less about your past exploits with hobby mechanics your problems with your Elantra and I dare say, no one else is either and it won't mean a thing when presenting your side to the courts.:wink: I see that you're back at the same watering hole and your personal pride getting in the way of; clear thinking.

When you take a major manufacture to task on a warranty claim, you have to have carry the burden of proof or should I say, your lawyer does. YOU have to file the suit, the federal governemnt isn't going to represent you. The Act only protects the individual, if the individual consumer is in line with the requirements of the warranty which is being denied. It simply sets Federal guidelines & requirements for manufacturers to follow.

I'll bring your attention to one specific part of the Act, Believe me they can if you are outside those guidelines and warranty requirements. It's been done thousands if not tens of thousands of times, since the enactment of the Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act.

Be my guest when and if it happens please, press the test. You won't have a leg to stand on, nor the money or legal power to refute it. Hence, the burden of proof in on you, as I stated before. Definitively, you must show and prove to the court, you have provided the reasonable and necessary maintenance along with reasonable use and not strayed from the manufactures warranty guidelines, not Hyundai. But be assured, they will have their guns load and to bear when the necessary time comes.

So go ahead and keep with the,"wishful and presumptive thinking," I've already told you, YOU can't foresee the future. However, common sense should tell you; "you're barking up the wrong tree!" Go ahead, take the low road and it maybe to your own detriment in the long run. Just as it nearly was in the in the past, with your Elantra and shaped your present thinking. You should have learned something then, instead of being hard headed. It's expedient for most to follow the manufacturer guidelines. When YOU don't everything necessary to adhere, it goes against YOU and YOU only! No one is going to be there to hold your hand and make it all better. Also keeping in mind; there is always three sides to a story; your's theirs and the truth.

I suppose you can at least remember the; The Path of least resistance, or maybe that's wishful thinking on my part. What do you gain by being hard hearted and stubborn? Where does it leave you? There is a time and place for everything but you must be intelligent enough to understand; which battles to fight and which ones to walk away from.. Again "common sense," should ring fairly clear in this scenario. There's an ole saying, "Be banging (one's) head against a brick wall, it feel so good when you stop.."

Do as you wish but keep this in the back of your mind as well, if you dare.:wink:

Keeping with the thought, this is a presumptive discussion only.:grin:

This Air Filter Comparison Study - GM Truck Central is a personal unsubstantiated opinion from a Forum, nuff said! You might want to try again but whatever helps you sleep at night.

You tell me where changing my own oil to Mobil 1 5w-30 Extended and 1 Qt of Redline 0w-40 is an infringement on warranty? Seems to me you have been banging your head against a brick wall.:wink:



.

 

I hope for your sake you keep verifiable meticulous maintenance records, at least from now on and into the future.:grin::wink: " A worthy battle is one to be fought but a worthless battle does not bear fruit."

 

With that being said I have and 8 mile walk to do and back to our regularly scheduled op's thread of; What Octane are you running in your 1.6T

 

jrKona, Talking about a warranty issue with all the speed parts you are putting on your Kona . ECU alteration ...talk about NO WARRANTY. :wink: Hyundai has software that shows ECU swapping changes, back and forth flashes and whole ECU changes back and forth. :smile:Also discounting the GM Truck filter test like you did, shows me you are clueless. :surprise::smile_big::sad::nerd:

 

jrKona said:


I'll bring your attention to one specific part of the Act,
Quote:
The federal minimum standards for full warranties are waived if the warrantor can show that the problem associated with a warranted consumer product was caused by damage while in the possession of the consumer, or by unreasonable use, including a failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance.

ME:


The problem is I over maintain my cars. I have a reputation in so many places as far as extreme maintenance, SORRY you would not win your legal case there. I am also known too many R&D oil engineers in multiple companies from a plethora of calls sucking their brain. So I have exceeded the common persons knowledge and so, in an EXTREME attempt do the right course of action in maintaining what every is under my care of cars and high end industrial equipment. Case closed YOU lose. You failed AGAIN.



.

 

You're ranting and your diatribe is getting near hostile.

Do what you want but I can see you're way out in left field, trying to impress and justify your ranting diatribe. Since you can't shut it off, I will.

Just to help you understand, I haven't put any performance parts on my Kona as yet. So once again, you're speaking about something you couldn't possibly know and you don't read very well either. I asked you a few questions early on and you just blew over them.

Do you realize you're spouting off about something which hasn't happened and most likely won't. You're living the past, fearing the worst and then trying to decide what you're going to do about it in the future. Hello reality!!

Maybe you need to take a little breather from this thread and relax. I fear your username explains quite a bit about the ranting.:wink:

 

I play in right field not left field. You are a has-been attorney. I wordsmithed you right over your head, and you did not even see it. Maybe you should keep your head out of the law books so you can look in the mirror and see the legend you are in your own mind. We see a little Boy, "living in the past and fearing the worst"' AGAIN you have ANOTHER EPIC FAIL. Who was the one throwing FUD (fear , uncertainty and doubt) all over this thread. YOU! You don't even know how to fight a case. You are the problem YOU are complaining about.



I CLEARLY see "intent" in you putting performance parts from all your posts. It is clear as day you intend to do this. And on a public forum, ANOTHER failure from "the attorney" How do you even keep a job when you fail time and time again? You can't make this stuff up you are just going around in circles. We need to disbar you. We need more attorneys like we need more politicians. Both full of smit.

 

Over here, if you go to the dealership for a yearly maintenance, we get a year European covered assistance in case of breakdown/flat tire,... So no self tinkering for me. Maintenance once a year and getting the reasurment that even on our holiday, even a flat is no prob and taken care of for us.

 

LOL, whats going on here, I'm new in this forum and it already looks like a honda forum lmao. First, I'd never put anything lower than 91oct (or 93oct if possible) gas in any turbo'd car, especially a hyundai. Second, I'd never use any oil based intake filter, OEM paper or dry performance filters only. Third, I'd never put any oil with HTHS lower than 3.5, so Mobil 1 is out. The brand I recommend Schaeffer's 9000 5w30 oil, hard to beat for the price if you buy in bulk, but if you want to spend more, just get Motul 300V. In my other cars, I also add a bottle (1 pint) of Schaeffer's Moly ep. I also recommend FilterMag. Also, NA 4 bangers, 5000 oci, turbo engines try to do 3000-4000 mi. Good luck guys, don't @ me.

 

Thanks for sharing.

I would have to disagree with you on the Schaeffer's Moly, it has really very little Moly in it and I'm highly skeptical of Moly or teflon oil additives to begin with. From what I've read, it's a oil thickener. Don't know if that's bad or good. STP is an oil thickener and I surely wouldn't use it.. I've actually haven't heard Schaeffer's Oil Products and never seen them in retail stores either. So, I can't comment further.

Sample tested by Polaris labs;

Additive Schaeffer Moly EP #132
Si Silicone 1
Mo Molybdenum 42 (Fairly small amount of Moly)
Sb Antimony 24
Ca Calcium 10
P Phosphorus 49
Zn Zinc 4
Water Volume 0
Viscosity 100C 282
ISO Code 19/17/16
4 micron 4686
6 micron 1259
10 micron 426
14 micron 327
21 micron 296
38 micron 73
70 micron 9
100 micron 2

I'm not an oil engineer and I'm very limited in the required knowledge, so I've just posted the actual Schaeffer's additive chemical breakdown. You can make up your own minds, regarding the use of moly or teflon products in your engine.

Keeping in mind, Molybdenum DiSulfide is not good for oxygen sensors and other emission sensors. Moly is great for slow SLIDING action, extremely heavily loaded, like those of plain bearings on bulldozers, backhoes, etc. where extreme shock loading occurs which may cause lubricant film failure; the moly will stay and provide that extreme pressure protection. We do NOT have such heavily loaded sliding actions in our GDI and TFI engines, so I believe it's really not needed. I'll stick to my Prolong after hundreds of thousands of miles of use and warranted engine guarantee.

I can definitely agree with you in the use of 91 Octane fuel, however I've never tried the FilterMags. I understand their principals but it sounds more like snake oil. You can make up your own mind. If you utilize the proper oil filter, it will trap most of the particulates the engine produces. The oil is moving far to fast for the magnets to pickup anything the filter hasn't already filtered. It's similar to a magnetic oil plug but on a larger scale I believe but doesn't work quite the same. However, if it makes you feel better, then by all means use them.

I have a Platinum Service Package from Hyundai, so I'll stick with what they offer. Of course, I always use their synthetic upgrade, which is free to me.:wink: If something does go wrong, then it's on them. IMHO making sure you do the regularly scheduled maintenance, is the key to longevity. Cost is a factor also. If your changing oil every three or four thousand miles, why spend a large amount for a so-called, super premium synthetic oil. These oils are tout to last up to 10K-15K under normal use, with very little or any viscosity breakdown. So it seems to me, you're just throwing you money away.

However, there is always (Murphys Law).:crying:

I suppose we've all drank the koolaid to some extent and felt better for it.:grin: Have a blast with you Kona, I know we will.:wink::grin: Blessing to you all.:smile_big:

 

You certainly sound very objective HAHAHA, did you actually send the oil in to do the VOA test yourself or you just copy and paste this data from another forum :wink:.

I do add the Moly EP in my other car with over 130k miles, not something that's necessary in a new KONA lol, probably way overkill imo. As far as Schaeffer goes, they are a pretty well known company in larger machinery industries, they just haven't done much advertising in consumer oils. I've had nothing but great UOA from their 9000 5w40 in my other car, and everyone I know has similar results. Does it matter for the little KONA? Probably not. Feel free to do some research, maybe check out their million mile teardown videos, and maybe you'll come to the same conclusion. I think if anyone is planning on keeping this car for the long haul, their 9000 5w30 is pretty great, I believe the HTHS for that is at 3.7. But my plan is to drive this as a daily and not add anymore miles to my fun car, and wait until my Tesla is delivered to replace the KONA as the daily (which might be a while). So even though I love over maintaining my cars, I'll just do the basic maintenance at the dealership every 5000 miles. Everything I'm posting here is just sharing knowledge, feel free to ignore (remember, this is the internet).

And I do agree you have very limited knowledge, saying FilterMag is snake oil when many automakers use similar high temp magnets in oil pans and transmissions. You've never tried it, yet you can objectively and definitively say it doesn't work, smh. All I know is, when I cut open my oil filters, I can see the fine metal dust on the filter wall, and that is good enough for me.

PS, assuming the oil used may have enough additives TBN that last > 10k miles (not likely), most oil filters will only last 5000 miles. So you might as well change the whole thing within 5000 miles, hence why I suggested the 5000 mi oci.

PPS, ^ doesn't apply to turbo models, assuming the turbo is oil cooled, these small turbo oil lines always have the chance of getting clogged after a while. That is why people suggest 3000-4000 miles oci for the small turbo motors. Or you can flip a coin and change it every 15000 miles :grin:.

Blessings

 

I thought I went to Bob is the Oil Guy forum by mistake.

 

:grin: So did I! I really don't like talking oils. I was trying to be courtesy and respond as accurately as I could. Oils discussions are well, BORING and never-ending as nothing ever comes from them. And I'm done.:wink:

 

octane gas people... OCTANE GAS!!!

 

Also there Zero reasons to use 91 or higher on the 1.6T, and if you have you are wasting money. I have used for experiment reason 89 and lost a mpgs and noticed no increase in throttle response. Unless you plan on a real ECU tune through a Dyno not a Chip.

 

Also there Zero reasons to use 91 or higher on the 1.6T, and if you have you are wasting money. I have used for experiment reason 89 and lost a mpgs and noticed no increase in throttle response, no fill with Premium yet but again no reason as all Top Tier here in the states and have to say - Shell /Exxon-Mobil/ Chevron -Texaco/ has there own detergents that they use and only Exxon uses less of its Synergy component in the 87.
As far as price here in WA and Oregon the range for 87 to 91/93 can be 25 to 30 depending on location of the station.

I would like to eventually run 91 but with no conclusive evidence for the need searching through different forums or posts no one has come up with that proof yet. To add premium burns slower and thus leading to higher carbon deposits. So until and I plan to confirm this from a Hyundai tuner then 87 for now and not the advice from JR Kona.

 

I think it's because of the additional additives mostly. The guys in Europe don't have much choice. I don't know about wasting money; it's kind of like the gasoline, it's there to burn?............... No huh!:grin: Around here the difference is only about .20 cents per gallon. So it's not much of an increase over the 89 with a 13 gallon tank. $3.00 per tank full, isn't going to break the bank IMHO.:smile: