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As for my comment on the other page, here is a picture of the DCT vent. Its nearly flush at the top of the transmission:


I'll eventually find a way to fix this barely protected section.
 

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It is a lead acid battery. The sulfuric acid is absorbed in a mat.

@1fastKona, been away from the forum for a few days and bebop beat me to the reply. This is why in my opinion lithium/lipo batteries are superior. I run one in my motorcycle and not only can it withstand full discharge cycles with little ill effects, you can let it sit on a shelf for a year and it barely loses any of its innate charge. Also the overall weight savings is pretty significant for competition/track purposes.
 

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Just got my kona back after almost a full month later. Took 3 weeks to get the new transmission. car works great so far, just hope it last. Also they gave me some Hyundai gas additive to help clean my injectors. Said add it every 3000 miles to clean the carbon buildup from the cylinders or my engine would have issues @ 30,000 miles it would need to be de carboned.
 

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Just got my kona back after almost a full month later. Took 3 weeks to get the new transmission. car works great so far, just hope it last. Also they gave me some Hyundai gas additive to help clean my injectors. Said add it every 3000 miles to clean the carbon buildup from the cylinders or my engine would have issues @ 30,000 miles it would need to be de carboned.
don’t believe the gas additives “magical” powers when it comes to GDI carbon cleanup..
You really don’t need any additives if you use a quality gas. The gas doesn’t hit the part of the valves that can be affected in a GDI engine.. Just drive it and avoid short runs, drive it hard every now and then to help burn off contamination..
 

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Absolutely! Use top tier fuel. Forget the additives. Waste of money. When I hit 50k I did a CRC intake valve cleaner in TBI.
not sure if it did anything or not.
 
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