I am doing great with my oil dilution for the last 1,650 miles on the new oil change. I will be doing an oil analysis at oil life of 2,000 coming up. Almost all of this oil where in below zero temps. I am holding at 1/4 qt above the full line and have been there almost the whole time. This is a far departure from 3/4 of a qt 500 miles into a new oil change and that was late fall, early winter where temps were mild. I consider my problem solved and in the safe/normal GDI turbo category. I have 6,600 miles on the car.

 

My first few oil changes had worse dilution than the latest one. I'll keep an eye on the issue and continue to update on here if I see any major changes. First few cycles left me at about 1/4 to 1/2 above 'full' on the dipstick after ~4000 mi. Last change (after the coldest temps of the year) was only at about 1/4 above 'full' - this change I only filled to 3/4ths the way to 'full' and I switched to T-GDI formulated non-synthetic. If it goes above the 'full' line before my next change I'll be a little frustrated, but it seems like the dilution is calming down with more miles, for some reason.

At 17,500 miles so far.

 

My first few oil changes had worse dilution than the latest one. I'll keep an eye on the issue and continue to update on here if I see any major changes. First few cycles left me at about 1/4 to 1/2 above 'full' on the dipstick after ~4000 mi. Last change (after the coldest temps of the year) was only at about 1/4 above 'full' - this change I only filled to 3/4ths the way to 'full' and I switched to T-GDI formulated non-synthetic. If it goes above the 'full' line before my next change I'll be a little frustrated, but it seems like the dilution is calming down with more miles, for some reason.

At 17,500 miles so far.

What oil are you running?
.

 

So you are running this? or does it say 45% sludge then industry standards and the label has nothing about a turbo in it?



https://www.castrol.com/content/dam...global/home/test-images/gtx_5qt_ultraclean_5w30_300_api.jpg.img.1024.medium.jpg

 

Running the pictured oil. Just picked it up after reading about them rolling out the updated stuff for better LSPI prevention

 

That pictured oil a semi-synthetic oil FYI, and most likely on the higher side of having more synthetic then most semi-synthetics that have a thimble of synthetic in them. A group 3 synthetic as it were. Still not near as much synthetic a regular full synthetic. I myself would rather run a full synthetic in any turbo car. There is just too much heat to gamble with a semi-synthetic.

 

Ah, interesting. I always assumed that if it had any synthetic it would be broadly advertised as at least "synthetic blend". Good to know.

And yeah, I'll probably end up going back to full synth unless I see noticeable improvements re: fuel dilution and oil life. I really only grabbed this one because I was looking for the updated LPSI preventive oil and they didn't have the full synthetics on the shelf yet

 

Lol! I just reread this whole thread.....that was entertaining.....and informative. @Mainia1 to save me some time searching can you please remind us exactly what oil and filter choices you’ve settled on please and thanks.

 

Lol! I just reread this whole thread.....that was entertaining.....and informative. @Mainia1 to save me some time searching can you please remind us exactly what oil and filter choices you’ve settled on please and thanks.

Now you have my head racing back to an area I am flip flopping back and forth.:wink:


Right now I am running Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 and I am 100 miles away from pulling a 2,000 mile oil analysis. I am really not worried about the fuel dilution problem anymore since fixing it through a process and changing over to only using sport mode. Now it just is curiosity of wear metals. I have 15 qt's left of the ESP but am teetering on using that oil for winter oil. I am tinking and only thinking on going to Redline 5w-30 Euro that has their lowest calcium of 1,650 ppm and with the moly and the ester that are both highly LSPI reducers, it would be a safe non-LSPI approved oil. Their 5w-40 oil which I would rather run for it's higher viscosity has higher calcium.

All none racing Mobil1 oils are safe to use and are non-LSPI oils even if they are not approved for LSPI. Since they have all of their formulas with very low calcium, most in the 1,050 to 1,250 ppm. They switched over to the low calcium formula when all others had no clue about LSPI dangers. Their internal testing sure knew about it earlier then everyone else.

Then there is Amsoil 5w-40 Euro ( all their oils are LSPI approved) and Pennzoil 5w-40 L but I think it has a higher calcium ppm.

Then their is the TSB Hyundai put out that all of their 2.0 liter turbo motors need to switch over to 5w-40 full time. THAT"S TELLING. And they gave NO SPEC on what certifications or approvals to use for that viscosity class. So technically, ANY 5w-40 oil has been approved for use by Hyundai. Our Kona turbos are speced for 5w-30 ACEA A5/B5 OR 5w-40 no spec. Their 5w-30 spec is for mileage, not engine longevity. That why I don't go by it. I will take an oil that has VW, Mercedes-Benz and Porsche oil certification any day over Hyundai's mundane specs.


For me, I just can run the thinner API 5w-30 SN Plus oil. In the winter I will run the Mobil 1 ESP since it is on the ticker side of the 5w-30 scale. Not with Hyundai's boundary layer oil issue hitting us all in the face, and Hyundai's own changing of viscosity to a thick one to try to save their engines. While the 1.6T as is not known to have as bad a problem as their 2.0T, having a bearing saving buffer zone is a smart move. So following Hyundai's own lead going to a 5w-40 just makes logical sense. What do they know they are not telling us.



Now you have me chasing my tail again.....I will have to concentrate on which 5w-40 that I feel is LSPI safe ( low calcium) I will run in the summer since again since we are coming into that season. More research I guess trying to find a low calcium 5w-40 with VW, MB, and Porsche speced oil that holds a 40 weight grade and doesn't shear like Mobil1 0w-40 to a 30 weight grade right away.


.

 

Correction



For me, I just can run the thinner API 5w-30 SN Plus oil.



It should be


For me, I just can't run the thinner API 5w-30 SN Plus oil.


.

 

Wow! @Mainia1 big thanks for that response. Keep us posted on the upcoming oil specs from analysis and your thoughts going forward. Guess we shouldn’t change the theme of this thread from gas in oil to oils and filters but what filter(s) do you recommend with those oils?

 

I run Fram Ultra's and only Ultra's. Don't run any other Fram then the Ultra, the others suck. I have spend some time talking to the main Fram tech guy and have also moved up the chain a couple of steps and talked to a guy who works with the engineering dept. So I feel comfortable the Fram Ultra's perform in our engines. Fram sent back their Hyundai speced filters for a redesign refresh about 4-5 years ago when they saw Hyundai having oil issues. Hyundai pushes their filters as a must have, and say Ultra's can reduce the oil flow. Well, Fram has documentation their filters flow better or the same in all aspects of their testing. They say that they are denying because of the filter ....I have Fram's testing to back up they don't have a viable claim one phone call away.

Here in the USA we have the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act so we have the right to run other filters without the manufacture playing games with us. You guys in Canada seem to be screwed after hearing how Hyundai screws with them with demanding oil receipts and charging $800 to $1,000 to pull apart the motor to see if it is sludged up when their crap designed motors blow from a 10 year old and ONGOING "boundary layer oil issue". When clearly they can find out if your engine has a sludge issue by R&R the valve cover and looking at the valve train for sludge for $100. Other high end filters can work too , but I have the whole engineering dept behind me if there is a warranty issue. I have all my engineers/connections lined up if a warranty issue arises and Hyundai wants to they to push me "the customer" around with their usual denials. Like they tried to do with my Elantra GT motor.


.

 

Looks like Honda has the same problem:

https://www.consumerreports.org/car...ar-repair-maintenance/honda-delays-cr-v-turbo-engine-fix-details-rollout-plans/

 

Only targeting the northern states with the extra warranty and fixes.. though others in warm climates have
Seen similarities... looks like the same issue indeed.. Honda also suggested using sport mode and avoiding
Short runs.. inherent issues with GDI that the industry is still trying to deal with.. Some fords and Toyota’s have
Both port and direct injection.. complex and pricey.. yet GDI has become the standard in new cars..

 

FYI, Costco has picked up the Mobile1 5-30 Full Synthetic.

https://www.costco.com/Mobil-1-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5W-30.product.100169695.html

Not currently on promotion, which when it is, they run ~$28.99 6 quart case, but it was in the store in SE Wisconsin yesterday.

The online price also charges shipping!!

 

Hello. My 2018 turbo Kona is also making oil. "Fuel in the oil". The dipstick reads over full and it smells like gas. I'm on my second oil change from new and both times the dipstick has been over the full mark not long after every oil change. I'm going to check our local dealer to see if its a common issue with this turbo engine.

 

This gas in oil seems to be an issue across many brands that use the newer GDI engines. But it doesn't seem to affect all engines, so still might be some kind of defect to do with the FI.

Sort of reminds me when 0W-20 oils were first used to help meet the fuel consumption requirements in the US. Some engines burned oil, but not all. Eventually it was fixed with better piston rings.

Kind of ironic that we used to have the problem of high oil consumption now being replaced by the opposite, ie oil levels rising.

 

Hi everyone. Well - the high pressure fuel pump they put in my vehicle last year solved the problems. I had no gas in the oil until a very cold snap a week and a half ago. Now I am back to having it checked weekly to see if it has returned or not. I am hoping that there is no long term affects from the gas. I do not know much about vehicles......and paying a lot and having issues is very frustrating!!

 

They changed my pump. The same issue returned.

 

This will be the second time they are changing mine.

 

I did extensive oil testing on my Kona, and I came out with an final plan to follow. A Honda 1.5T guy on Bob's the oil guy site and he has the bad oil problem too since his Honda 1.5T is said to be the worst car/crossover to date. We are both above 5%, and what you find out after extensive testing, there is no more wear then a port injected motor. We find you gain semi quick and it levels off. I use my oil draw pump to suck out the high oil and I just checked my oil tonight and I gained a 1/8th of an inch in 1,000 miles after gaining an inch in the first 1,000 miles. Basically, you change your oil at 3,000 miles in the winter, pull out the high oil at 1,000 miles, and don't spend anytime worrying about it, since you don't have anymore wear then a normal car. I still check every other oil change and it has been fine.

 

Add me to the list it appears that I'm getting gas in my oil I changed my oil at 1000 miles it was at the full mark I now have 1800 miles and i checked my oil today and it is above the full mark by about an eighth of an inch and it smells like gas. This is on a 2020 limited 1.6T. I did check it a couple of times a day or two after changing it and it was at the full mark. I will be keeping a close look at it.

 

is this only happening with the turbo direct injection engine

 

So far, yes.

 

It seems to be.

 

I have a 2020 Limited with the 1.6L GDI Turbo with just shy of 2500mi. I only do about 600-700 miles per month mostly short trips so this kind of seems directed at my driving habits. I checked my oil today and everything seems normal but I'll be keeping an eye on for sure going forward. I'm glad I found this forum for bringing things like this up and thanks to everyone for their inputs!

 

January 29 my high pressure fuel pump was replaced for the 2nd time. For the weeks that followed the mechanics checked it weekly and it looked good until today - the fluids over the dip stick line was big!! They kept my vehicle and gave me a rental. Extremely frustrating!!

 

At least they are still working with you on the issue. They told me they could not detect any gas after I told them the fuel pump replacement did not work.

 

Again, fuel dilution is a non issue if you change your oil every 3,000 to 3,500 miles. I have tested with two different oil labs and one being one of the better ones in the country, Polaris Labs. About six tests in 15,000 miles. It is just the nature of the beast, a small GDI turbo.

I am a worst case scenario user that has everything going against me, cold Minnesota winters, short tripping 10 miles to work and back. Plus, a very very heavy foot with being on boost more then most. I have zero abnormal wear. I gain 1/2 qt of fuel in my first 200 miles of new oil change, after that I gain another 1/4 qt. I change my oil at 3,000 miles in the winter and 3,500 in the summer. Really, don’t get all worried about this, it is a non issue, as many who actually test their oil by sending out to a oil analysis company, you soon find out you are worrying about a whole lot of nothing.

 

@Mainia1 - after reading through the thread, it would seem my oil sample of 3.5% fuel is actually a bit better than most when it comes to Hyundai tGDIs.

I posted it over at BITOG, but I also have it attached here. Wanted to hear your thoughts since this was the only callout from Blackstone.

 

Since you are in Texas, I would run 5w-40 or a thick 5w-30 year round. That means any 5w-30 Dexos1 Gen2 oil would be too thin. I myself would only run an oil with a HTHS (Hi-Temp Hi-Shear Viscosity @ 150 C) of a 3.5 or higher, as a bare minimum especially with your summer heat. I also look for a 11.8 or higher at 100C viscosity. I have to worry about -20 below here in Minnesota, so I have compromises, even though I can run a summer oil and winter oil if I want. I do like to try to run the same oil brands as to keep the additive packages close to the same, since you can run into problems when switching all around with different oils brands.

The Subaru WRX crowd has had good luck with Rotella T6 Multi Vehicle in stage 1 and stage 2 builds. So we know it performs well in high hp turbos. You have to watch out with switching out brands early and all over the place as the detergent add pack can screw around with your testing giving a false or legitimate high reading of wear metals. Then there is Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP that I use that is on the higher end of the 5-30 viscosity scale to more like a light 5-40, and has a lot of manufacture certifications. I like this because it gives me some weapons to use if they try to void my warranty because of oil. But then again, didn't you say Hyundai is not calling out ACEA A5/B5 in your 2019 Kona manual like they did in my 2018 Kona manual? That oil spec is not doing any favors for a highly used turbo motor. If so, that is nice because Hyundai WOULD try to use it against you/us if they could in a blown motor warranty claim. Getting rid of Hyundai sub-standard oil spec helps use buy better oil for our cars, even though I bought what I wanted to use knowing they speced a sub-standard mileage based oil spec. If some of you are looking for good oil, always use German oil specs from VW a a guide to getting quality designed oil. There are other German manufacture specs, but if you go by just VW you will be 100% fine and you have only one manufacture spec to go by to make it an easier choice. The Germans demand the best oils in their cars, while the Asian's could careless.

 

But then again, didn't you say Hyundai is not calling out ACEA A5/B5 in your 2019 Kona manual like they did in my 2018 Kona manual? That oil spec is not doing any favors for a highly used turbo motor.

It says “API Latest (ILSAC Latest) or ACEA A5/B5*”

Footnote says “If ACEA A5 isn’t available in your country, you are able to use ILSAC GL-3 (or above) or ACEA A3 (or above.)”

When I read that, if you’re using SN+, GL-5, or ACEA A5/B5 you’re golden...

 

2019 Kona 1.6T with 18,673 km - engine light came on after a very cold week (Toronto area), oil level very high, the dealer replaced the high pressure fuel pump. They recommended to go back after 1,000 km to do an oil change. This time the engine light was off but the oil lever was high again. The car is in service for over 3 weeks and they cannot find the issue. I'm driving a loaner from the dealer (a 2021 Kona 1.6T with 1,600 km). I was told that they have 2 more Kona 1.6T (one had the high pressure fuel pump replaced too) with the same issue.
FYI: I'm only driving the car for 5 km one way to work and, after the pump was replaced, I drove it in Sport mode for 1000Km.

 

After almost 2 months of driving a loaner I finally got my Kona back. They replaced the O2 sensor.
The service manager recommended to check the oil level daily.

 

After almost 2 months of driving a loaner I finally got my Kona back. They replaced the O2 sensor.
The service manager recommended to check the oil le el daily.
View attachment 5363

But, now it is summer, so you cant tell if it worked for another 6 months. Please keep us informed on what you see, even 6-8 months out.