[Mainia1]

There is no AT dip stick on the 2.0l engine. According to the owners manual, in "normal" driving conditions it will require no service until at least 120,000 miles. Under "harsh" conditions they recommend the fluid be changed every 60,000 miles. The owners manual recommends this be done by a Hyundai dealer, but essentially it means its a sealed transmission. What that actually means I don't know. It could mean there is a drain but that filling would be from the top and be a bit complicated or it could mean you have to pull a pan sealed by a gasket to get the old fluid out (as was the case with my old Jeep CVT.)

As an aside, my owners manual DOES indicate there is some sort of fluid associated with DCT (which is supposed to be "dry clutch") that has to inspected fairly regularly but that transmission also lacks any dipstick access.

https://www.hyundaikonaforum.com/fo...scussion/1368-kona-dct-transmission-fluid-full-level-outflow-port-location.html


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[Mainia1]

As far as your ATF 2.0 liter trans, it is very easy to change. As far as I know they have not changed anything with weird drain and fill process like Toyota's have and that can be done by a DIYer with ease, it just takes research how and it takes more time to do it right.

I changed out the ATF in my 2013 Elantra GT and did a 100% flush by dropping the pan, filing and using the trans cooler lines to the radiator to run the car and pump the clean new oil from the pan into the trans, while the EXIT return line is pumping oil used oil out of the trans convertor. When you hear it sucking air you kill the engine and add more to the pan and start the car and pump again till you see clean ATF coming from the exit radiator return line to the pan. It usually takes 3 to 4 pan fills of 3 to 4 qts ea pan fill of new oil to get clean oil and be 100% flushed of the dirty old oil.

When I did my Elantra GT I left the filter in since it only had 12,000 miles on it and I wanted to get the break-in clutch material out. The trans filters only filter large particulates out, that is why they call them rock catchers. If you change early like I did you can wait till the 100,000 mile flush to change the filter. The plan was to change oil about every 40,000 to 50,000 miles after the 12,000 mile change. I ran Redline D6 ATF, a group 5 fluid in there and not OEM crap "price point " cheap oil that I wanted out of there. Needless to say, I am hard on a trans, so changing it often is going with the rough service philosophy.



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[Mainia1]

Yep found it in the manual looks like a close system to be serviced by the dealer or for the more adventurous home repair types. Hopefully if you do it yourself it won’t void the warranty

In the USA it would not void warranty, nor would using another oil like Redline, Amsoil, or Valvoline Max Life ATF, even though Max Life is a couple tiers down from Redline and Amsoil. As long as the OEM oil name is on the bottle of Redline Amsoil or Max Life you are safe. It won't be "certified" it will only be "approved for use" by the aftermarket oil company. And that is fine to keep warranty in the USA with the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act.. Canada.....not so much.







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[Mainia1]

Your first change is the most important change since all the break-in clutch plate material is in there. I myself if you absolutely are going to keep it, would be at 20,000 miles since I do it myself it would be $130 total for Redline or Amsoil. ATF. But Hyundai has good ATF too, unlike Toyota that has the horrible WS ATF. :wink: Then every 50,000 miles. I suggest to anyone always use the "rough service" fluid change intervals they suggest even if you are not a rough service person or area. But again the first oil change on motor transmission and diffs are inportant to get the content of break-in material out sooner rather then later.



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