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At only 3 months old, neither of our smart key fobs would open the car.

We tried to use Blue Link Digital Key 2, but it was unable to communicate with the car.

To try to get into the car, we followed the owner's manual instructions to remove the small door handle plate with the mechanical key. But putting the key into the slot under the handle successfully proved impossible for us.

So the dealership (Gettel Hyundai of Lakewood Ranch, Bradenton, FL) had Roadside Assistance (AAA Locksmith) come out to get into and try to start the car.

It took 2 of us to remove the small door handle plate, (one to hold the handle up and the other to try to release it with the mechanical key in the slot) but he finally did and then used the mechanical key to enter the car.

He opened the hood and put the jumper on the battery and declared it was totally dead. So he jump started it.

After a few seconds the car would start. But before he left, he disconnected the charger to see if it would start. It wouldn't, so he charged it again and started it again.

I immediately drove it to the dealership who kept it for 3 days performing battery diagnostics looking for "dark or parasitic current drain".

They couldn't find the cause, so they returned the car. Note: They didn't replace the battery we assume because they felt it wasn't the problem.


In the paperwork we got, the service tech noted, "parasitic draw test showed a multimeter reading of between 13 and 54 milliamps". Because this was a 2024 model, we assume Hyundai had no parasitic draw standards and they weren't sure if this was normal. So they tried it with another 2024 Kona off their lot which "found the reading exactly the same."

Later on this forum, I found only one person who'd reported a similar 2024 Kona battery drain problem and posted this response from his dealer:

My dealer told me that the radio needs to be fully off (black screen) and the doors have to be locked not once, but twice and with the key fob, not the button on the door. Otherwise they can both drain the battery, even when the car is off. I've had my battery die twice on me due to this issue.

I've asked the dealer if they were aware of this abnormal procedure to turn off a Hyundai, but have not heard back yet.

It seems it shouldn't be necessary to do all those steps to avoid " excessive parasitic battery drain" that makes our new car unusable.

Any other Kona owners have this problem and have hopefully solved it?

Sam
Thanks for your post! I am in the middle of this exact same problems: tomorrow will be the 3rd jump in 7 days and the dealer checked & charged it two days ago. No one has mentioned the double lock with fob and radio completely off situation. My 2024 Kona came off the lot Jan 1, 2024. Using the mechanical key is a royal pain!
 
I may have found the solution open rear hatch and look around rubber plugs on hatch door, hand tighten those plugs there is a fat one and a thin one there should be no gap between them. Also when open close rear hatch make sure you run the car within 2 hrs or keep engine on while doing this. A guy in England discovered this. He believes that there is a sensor that is triggered and running the engine after closing hatch seals door. Also the gap between the plugs triggers the car in thinking hatch is open so it is trying to seal hatch.
 
My daughter had the same issue. One month old Kona . Took back to dealer they found a gps tracker that was as causing the drain. The car was a dealership transfer neither she or the dealer she bought from know it was in the car.Tech saw some wires under the steering wheel that was out of place.
 
My daughter had the same issue. One month old Kona . Took back to dealer they found a gps tracker that was as causing the drain. The car was a dealership transfer neither she or the dealer she bought from know it was in the car.Tech saw some wires under the steering wheel that was out of place.
That is a great observation. My vehicle was also a dealer transfer, as the Kona I originally chose was just off the transport, with no dealer adds. It had some sort of mechanical issues, and the dealer found a similar Soultronic Orange about 100 miles away and sold me that one. The replacement may very well have a dealer add tracking device installed. I will check early next week.

Thank you.
 
At only 3 months old, neither of our smart key fobs would open the car.

We tried to use Blue Link Digital Key 2, but it was unable to communicate with the car.

To try to get into the car, we followed the owner's manual instructions to remove the small door handle plate with the mechanical key. But putting the key into the slot under the handle successfully proved impossible for us.

So the dealership (Gettel Hyundai of Lakewood Ranch, Bradenton, FL) had Roadside Assistance (AAA Locksmith) come out to get into and try to start the car.

It took 2 of us to remove the small door handle plate, (one to hold the handle up and the other to try to release it with the mechanical key in the slot) but he finally did and then used the mechanical key to enter the car.

He opened the hood and put the jumper on the battery and declared it was totally dead. So he jump started it.

After a few seconds the car would start. But before he left, he disconnected the charger to see if it would start. It wouldn't, so he charged it again and started it again.

I immediately drove it to the dealership who kept it for 3 days performing battery diagnostics looking for "dark or parasitic current drain".

They couldn't find the cause, so they returned the car. Note: They didn't replace the battery we assume because they felt it wasn't the problem.


In the paperwork we got, the service tech noted, "parasitic draw test showed a multimeter reading of between 13 and 54 milliamps". Because this was a 2024 model, we assume Hyundai had no parasitic draw standards and they weren't sure if this was normal. So they tried it with another 2024 Kona off their lot which "found the reading exactly the same."

Later on this forum, I found only one person who'd reported a similar 2024 Kona battery drain problem and posted this response from his dealer:

My dealer told me that the radio needs to be fully off (black screen) and the doors have to be locked not once, but twice and with the key fob, not the button on the door. Otherwise they can both drain the battery, even when the car is off. I've had my battery die twice on me due to this issue.

I've asked the dealer if they were aware of this abnormal procedure to turn off a Hyundai, but have not heard back yet.

It seems it shouldn't be necessary to do all those steps to avoid " excessive parasitic battery drain" that makes our new car unusable.

Any other Kona owners have this problem and have hopefully solved it?

Sam
I have had the same problem since i purchased a 2024 Kona in March. I believe the problem is worse than hyundai knows. I suspect that most people exerience this problem when bluelink doesn't work, so they report an issue with the app when in reality the app works fine. There are many fixes to this issue on the forum and all work until they don't. I have been collecting data on the issue and so far the issue appears to be so random that it is hard to pin point. The double lock with the key fob works most of the time but not always. My recommendation is to get a car monitor system it is not as hard to do as one thinks. I use one called Bouncie the is system is around $30 from amazon and cost $8 a month for service. This will alert you that battery is low so you can run the car for a few minutes to charge battery. It reports the battery low ( below 12 volts but greater than 11.5 vots) I run the car for 5 minutes than disconnect the monitor/reconnect the monitor (this resets the monitor). Recomendations so far inclued: 1. Use key fob and lock door twice with key fob. 2. No short trips (not enought time to charge battery) 3. Check rear hatch and tighten rubber gaskets 4. Turn every thing off (radio, lights etc). For peace of mind until you purchase a monitor system I recommend use the key fob but lock the door with key fob not twiced but 3/4 times.
 
At only 3 months old, neither of our smart key fobs would open the car.

We tried to use Blue Link Digital Key 2, but it was unable to communicate with the car.

To try to get into the car, we followed the owner's manual instructions to remove the small door handle plate with the mechanical key. But putting the key into the slot under the handle successfully proved impossible for us.

So the dealership (Gettel Hyundai of Lakewood Ranch, Bradenton, FL) had Roadside Assistance (AAA Locksmith) come out to get into and try to start the car.

It took 2 of us to remove the small door handle plate, (one to hold the handle up and the other to try to release it with the mechanical key in the slot) but he finally did and then used the mechanical key to enter the car.

He opened the hood and put the jumper on the battery and declared it was totally dead. So he jump started it.

After a few seconds the car would start. But before he left, he disconnected the charger to see if it would start. It wouldn't, so he charged it again and started it again.

I immediately drove it to the dealership who kept it for 3 days performing battery diagnostics looking for "dark or parasitic current drain".

They couldn't find the cause, so they returned the car. Note: They didn't replace the battery we assume because they felt it wasn't the problem.


In the paperwork we got, the service tech noted, "parasitic draw test showed a multimeter reading of between 13 and 54 milliamps". Because this was a 2024 model, we assume Hyundai had no parasitic draw standards and they weren't sure if this was normal. So they tried it with another 2024 Kona off their lot which "found the reading exactly the same."

Later on this forum, I found only one person who'd reported a similar 2024 Kona battery drain problem and posted this response from his dealer:

My dealer told me that the radio needs to be fully off (black screen) and the doors have to be locked not once, but twice and with the key fob, not the button on the door. Otherwise they can both drain the battery, even when the car is off. I've had my battery die twice on me due to this issue.

I've asked the dealer if they were aware of this abnormal procedure to turn off a Hyundai, but have not heard back yet.

It seems it shouldn't be necessary to do all those steps to avoid " excessive parasitic battery drain" that makes our new car unusable.

Any other Kona owners have this problem and have hopefully solved it?

Sam
I am having this problem. I bought a jump pack, so I can jump it myself. Dealer told me next time it dies to have it towed into him in the dead state so they can see what's going on. I already know they can't fix it, so I will give them the opportunity, and then I will trade it in on something else. If it was a bad battery, I would just get a new one and pay for it, but it's not the battery.
 
I have had the same problem since i purchased a 2024 Kona in March. I believe the problem is worse than hyundai knows. I suspect that most people exerience this problem when bluelink doesn't work, so they report an issue with the app when in reality the app works fine. There are many fixes to this issue on the forum and all work until they don't. I have been collecting data on the issue and so far the issue appears to be so random that it is hard to pin point. The double lock with the key fob works most of the time but not always. My recommendation is to get a car monitor system it is not as hard to do as one thinks. I use one called Bouncie the is system is around $30 from amazon and cost $8 a month for service. This will alert you that battery is low so you can run the car for a few minutes to charge battery. It reports the battery low ( below 12 volts but greater than 11.5 vots) I run the car for 5 minutes than disconnect the monitor/reconnect the monitor (this resets the monitor). Recomendations so far inclued: 1. Use key fob and lock door twice with key fob. 2. No short trips (not enought time to charge battery) 3. Check rear hatch and tighten rubber gaskets 4. Turn every thing off (radio, lights etc). For peace of mind until you purchase a monitor system I recommend use the key fob but lock the door with key fob not twiced but 3/4 times.
Any updates? I am about to get rid of it because I need a reliable vehicle and cannot afford to be stranded. It's a shame because I really like the car.
 
After doing research and testing I think I found the problem for the parasite battery drain and bluelink not working issues. It appears that the problem is with the key fob. The key fob, per hyundai, needs to be within 32 ft to start car, but it acutally transmits up to 500 ft (some guy in England discovered this). What is going on is that it is establishing a weak link with the car, thus draining the battery. What is needed is to buy or make a Faraday cage. Here is how: 1. purchase an rf blocking box or pouch ($5.00 or more). 2. place key fobs in a tin can (i am doing this) can must have cover/sealed. 3. place key fobs in the refrigerator (which is a large tin can). 4. wrap key fobs in aluminum foil. So far this is working. It solves the bluelink issue because once the battery gets to 12 volts or less bluelink will not work. Remember not only must you have a faraday cage device for home but work, staying in motel, etc. Anyplace where the car sits for 5 hrs or more (not running) and within 500ft of the key fob. Also remember car comes with two key fobs. An interesting note: what the key fob issue means is that the quality of hyundai vehicles is so (so) good that that they created an issue by being so good. Possible solutions for hyundai tech is: smaller battery in key fob and/or provide owners with a portable faraday cage.
 
After doing research and testing I think I found the problem for the parasite battery drain and bluelink not working issues. It appears that the problem is with the key fob. The key fob, per hyundai, needs to be within 32 ft to start car, but it acutally transmits up to 500 ft (some guy in England discovered this). What is going on is that it is establishing a weak link with the car, thus draining the battery. What is needed is to buy or make a Faraday cage. Here is how: 1. purchase an rf blocking box or pouch ($5.00 or more). 2. place key fobs in a tin can (i am doing this) can must have cover/sealed. 3. place key fobs in the refrigerator (which is a large tin can). 4. wrap key fobs in aluminum foil. So far this is working. It solves the bluelink issue because once the battery gets to 12 volts or less bluelink will not work. Remember not only must you have a faraday cage device for home but work, staying in motel, etc. Anyplace where the car sits for 5 hrs or more (not running) and within 500ft of the key fob. Also remember car comes with two key fobs. An interesting note: what the key fob issue means is that the quality of hyundai vehicles is so (so) good that that they created an issue by being so good. Possible solutions for hyundai tech is: smaller battery in key fob and/or provide owners with a portable faraday cage.
Thanks for the reply, but I don't think the key fob is the problem. There are probably 100k key fobs like this one being used all over the world. Hyundai would be swimming with problems if that was the issue with the Kona battery dying. On top of that, my keys have been in the same place in my house since I purchased the car and never had a problem up until 2 weeks ago. If anything, it's either the latest update, the blue link app or the using phone as key.

If I don't get satisfaction soon, I am trading it in, as it is not reliable. Let it be someone else's problem.
 
It is possible I am wrong and you are right. All I can say is it cost no $$ to try my solution and if it doesn't work one is out nothing
Trying everything I can, I don't want to trade it in if I don't have to, I like the car. I do know that Hyundai cannot and will not fix it unless the car dies while in their possession, and that could take weeks.
 
Just for everyone's info I found the cabin fan running in my car in the garage for the fourth time yesterday. Have found the motor cooling fan running twice. Contacted Hyundai again by email and they said someone would call me. The someone who called me back was a script reader. She told me she had no information that anyone else was having the dead battery problem. She also stated that if the problem could not be duplicated at the dealership Hyundai could not help me. In other words Hyundai is hanging us out to dry and not even acknowledging the dead battery problem. If either of the fans decides to run while the car is in the garage or driveway overnight you are going to wake up to a dead battery like I did. Wasted my time taking the car back to the dealership after the dead battery and they told me they could not duplicate the problem. Therefore it doesn't exist to them. I have had to resort to checking the car in the garage everynight before I go to bed to see if either fan is running. If it comes on after bedtime it will be dead battery time again. Going to research to try and find out if there is any organization that I can contact and escalate the problem because Hyundai is playing dumb. Good luck to everyone. Just an afterthought, the fans in my car are coming on usually after it has been driven and been shut off in the garage for at least two or three hours.
 
Just for everyone's info I found the cabin fan running in my car in the garage for the fourth time yesterday. Have found the motor cooling fan running twice. Contacted Hyundai again by email and they said someone would call me. The someone who called me back was a script reader. She told me she had no information that anyone else was having the dead battery problem. She also stated that if the problem could not be duplicated at the dealership Hyundai could not help me. In other words Hyundai is hanging us out to dry and not even acknowledging the dead battery problem. If either of the fans decides to run while the car is in the garage or driveway overnight you are going to wake up to a dead battery like I did. Wasted my time taking the car back to the dealership after the dead battery and they told me they could not duplicate the problem. Therefore it doesn't exist to them. I have had to resort to checking the car in the garage everynight before I go to bed to see if either fan is running. If it comes on after bedtime it will be dead battery time again. Going to research to try and find out if there is any organization that I can contact and escalate the problem because Hyundai is playing dumb. Good luck to everyone. Just an afterthought, the fans in my car are coming on usually after it has been driven and been shut off in the garage for at least two or three hours.
I have heard the fan come on just one time since I owned the car, it turned off after about 5 minutes. I live very close to Canada, so it really has not gotten very hot here yet. My thought is that it's not the fan, as it would be happening to tens of thousands of people. The fan running is something common to all Kona's. I have an appointment June 4th to take it into the dealer, chances are I will have it traded in before that appointment comes. I have zero confidence in Hyundai being able to locate the problem, never mind fixing it.
 
I have heard the fan come on just one time since I owned the car, it turned off after about 5 minutes. I live very close to Canada, so it really has not gotten very hot here yet. My thought is that it's not the fan, as it would be happening to tens of thousands of people. The fan running is something common to all Kona's. I have an appointment June 4th to take it into the dealer, chances are I will have it traded in before that appointment comes. I have zero confidence in Hyundai being able to locate the problem, never mind fixing it.
I have found the cabin fan and the cooling fan running when the car is in the garage. It happens after the car has been driven or not. No reason for either fan running when the car is shut off and not running. If either fan comes on overnight and you don't catch it the result is a dead battery. This is my third Hyundai Kona and I have never had this problem before.
 
I have found the cabin fan and the cooling fan running when the car is in the garage. It happens after the car has been driven or not. No reason for either fan running when the car is shut off and not running. If either fan comes on overnight and you don't catch it the result is a dead battery. This is my third Hyundai Kona and I have never had this problem before.
Hyundai cannot fix it, and my patience is about over. Going to trade it in. I live in a very rural area and need reliable transportation.
 
Hyundai cannot fix it, and my patience is about over. Going to trade it in. I live in a very rural area and need reliable transportation.
I don't blame you. If I lived in a rural area and depended on my car I would trade it too. Go with a reliable brand like Nissan or Honda. My girl friend has a 2020 Nissan Altima and has had zero problems with it. Good luck in the future. The only thing Hyundai is concerned with is your experience with the script reader who is supposed to handle your concerns.
 
At only 3 months old, neither of our smart key fobs would open the car.

We tried to use Blue Link Digital Key 2, but it was unable to communicate with the car.

To try to get into the car, we followed the owner's manual instructions to remove the small door handle plate with the mechanical key. But putting the key into the slot under the handle successfully proved impossible for us.

So the dealership (Gettel Hyundai of Lakewood Ranch, Bradenton, FL) had Roadside Assistance (AAA Locksmith) come out to get into and try to start the car.

It took 2 of us to remove the small door handle plate, (one to hold the handle up and the other to try to release it with the mechanical key in the slot) but he finally did and then used the mechanical key to enter the car.

He opened the hood and put the jumper on the battery and declared it was totally dead. So he jump started it.

After a few seconds the car would start. But before he left, he disconnected the charger to see if it would start. It wouldn't, so he charged it again and started it again.

I immediately drove it to the dealership who kept it for 3 days performing battery diagnostics looking for "dark or parasitic current drain".

They couldn't find the cause, so they returned the car. Note: They didn't replace the battery we assume because they felt it wasn't the problem.


In the paperwork we got, the service tech noted, "parasitic draw test showed a multimeter reading of between 13 and 54 milliamps". Because this was a 2024 model, we assume Hyundai had no parasitic draw standards and they weren't sure if this was normal. So they tried it with another 2024 Kona off their lot which "found the reading exactly the same."

Later on this forum, I found only one person who'd reported a similar 2024 Kona battery drain problem and posted this response from his dealer:

My dealer told me that the radio needs to be fully off (black screen) and the doors have to be locked not once, but twice and with the key fob, not the button on the door. Otherwise they can both drain the battery, even when the car is off. I've had my battery die twice on me due to this issue.

I've asked the dealer if they were aware of this abnormal procedure to turn off a Hyundai, but have not heard back yet.

It seems it shouldn't be necessary to do all those steps to avoid " excessive parasitic battery drain" that makes our new car unusable.

Any other Kona owners have this problem and have hopefully solved it?

Sam
I have a 2024 Kona N Line and I had a dead battery after owning the car for 5 months. The car had been sitting in the garage for 3 days. About 2 weeks ago, I had the warning "An external device is discharging your battery". This time it was not dead: what a relief. I am curious about the comment your dealer made about locking the doors with the key fob. Was this confirmed? If yes, that could be my problem because I never lock my car when I have it parked in my garage.
 
I have a 2024 Kona N Line and I had a dead battery after owning the car for 5 months. The car had been sitting in the garage for 3 days. About 2 weeks ago, I had the warning "An external device is discharging your battery". This time it was not dead: what a relief. I am curious about the comment your dealer made about locking the doors with the key fob. Was this confirmed? If yes, that could be my problem because I never lock my car when I have it parked in my garage.
Make sure you shut everything off before leaving your car including radio, a/c, heat, vent etc. Close the door and use the key fob to lock it. Hit button at least 3 times to make sure everything power down. It may not work, but it cannot hurt. **** of a way to own a car.
 
Thank goodness I'm not the only one! I bought a brand new 2024 Kona Limited FWD with only 15 miles on it on May 3rd, 3 days later on May 6th it was dead. Took it in they said the battery was testing just fine, so it might have been low from coming off the truck. Next day, May 7th, I wake up and it's dead again. They had it in the shop for 3 days and couldn't figure anything out, so they put a new battery on and gave it back May 9th. Again on May 12th it was dead again. I took it in again and by May 15th it had been through several technicians and they still couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. So, that day I traded it in for another brand new 2024 Kona Limited AWD. Once again today, May 20th it was dead.... I'm about over this car and it sucks because I really love it.
 
I've had my new Kona N-Line for a few weeks now and so far, so good...It also was sitting on the dealer lot for a good few months before I purchased it and service history records don't show any battery replacements occurring during this time...That said, I do double-click my key fob lock when I leave the car...I also keep both my C8 Corvette and Kona keys in a shielded faraday box to ensure no communications are happening between the fobs and cars...
 
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