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Did you have to pay for the battery and installation or was it a part of the recall?
For a 2025 the battery warranty is 3 years/36,000 miles. I just re-read your post, since that T-mobile device plugs in to the OBDII port. it is likely the culprit. It has full on GPS and cell phone inside it, same tech as the insurance dongle I had, my battery problems went away after I removed it. Pull the T-mobile device and I bet your battery problems go away with it.
The dealer battery testing will conclusively determine if your battery is bad. It most likely isn't defective.
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For a 2025 the battery warranty is 3 years/36,000 miles. I just re-read your post, since that T-mobile device plugs in to the OBDII port. it is likely the culprit. It has full on GPS and cell phone inside it, same tech as the insurance dongle I had, my battery problems went away after I removed it. Pull the T-mobile device and I bet your battery problems go away with it.
The dealer battery testing will conclusively determine if your battery is bad. It most likely isn't defective.
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I had an inkling that could have been the culprit alongside of the recall, though I find it odd for the battery to go dead after two weeks of driving it everyday and having no issue. But some vehicles are odd and still give some ports power even when the vehicle is off. I’ll definitely be unplugging it when the vehicle isn’t in use and I’ll report my results on if it and the recall helps after it’s done Monday. I’m just really hoping that the battery isn’t also bad.
 
I had an inkling that could have been the culprit alongside of the recall, though I find it odd for the battery to go dead after two weeks of driving it everyday and having no issue. But some vehicles are odd and still give some ports power even when the vehicle is off. I’ll definitely be unplugging it when the vehicle isn’t in use and I’ll report my results on if it and the recall helps after it’s done Monday. I’m just really hoping that the battery isn’t also bad.
The OBDII port power feed is always on. It's not an official recall, it's a technical service bulletin (TSB). Hyundai Technical Service Bulletin TSB-24-01-090H for the MM Keyboard corrects a software issue where it is not being put to sleep. It can cause battery drain after longer periods of vehicle non-use. My insurance dongle would kill the battery after about 3 days of non-use. With the GPS/cell phone devices, how long it takes to kill the battery depends on whether the device has a sleep mode, how often the device detects location and other vehicle data and how often you access the data or how often it phones home to automatically report the data.
My insurance dongle issues happened much like yours, a couple of weeks after I bought it. Didn't click in right away that it started after plugging in the insurance dongle. My first clue was a message that popped up a couple of times when I got in the Kona...An external device is discharging the battery. It has been over a year since I have had another battery issue.
There is still a slim possibility that a tracker is also hidden under the dash which would accelerate the time it takes to kill the battery when the T-mobile device is plugged in along with it.
Leave the T-mobile dongle plugged in when you take it to the dealer, the battery testing will likely point to it as the source of external battery drain. If a tracker is installed, that should show up too.
I hope it gets settled for you, nothing worse than having trouble with a new car.
 
This solution comes directly from a corporate Hyundai product trainer: How to stop the pinging from the key fob: Hold lock and unlock on fob until lights on vehicle flashes. Then vehicle doesn't ping fob.(until you hit unlock on fob) Still might be a good idea to put your spare key fob into a Faraday key pouch though. Digital key does still communicate with the vehicle, if you arent planning to use that feature might be best not to activate it. Its a bit irritating but cars arent going to get any less technologically advanced. If you are dealing with a parasitic drain, this is likely the culprit.
 
This solution comes directly from a corporate Hyundai product trainer: How to stop the pinging from the key fob: Hold lock and unlock on fob until lights on vehicle flashes. Then vehicle doesn't ping fob.(until you hit unlock on fob) Still might be a good idea to put your spare key fob into a Faraday key pouch though. Digital key does still communicate with the vehicle, if you arent planning to use that feature might be best not to activate it. Its a bit irritating but cars arent going to get any less technologically advanced. If you are dealing with a parasitic drain, this is likely the culprit.
When I tested that function in April 2024, the door handle unlock feature was disabled until I unlocked with the key fob. I suppose that means the fob and the car are not looking for each other. I don't have any battery issue so didn't pursue it any further and don't bother activating it each time.
 
This solution comes directly from a corporate Hyundai product trainer: How to stop the pinging from the key fob: Hold lock and unlock on fob until lights on vehicle flashes. Then vehicle doesn't ping fob.(until you hit unlock on fob) Still might be a good idea to put your spare key fob into a Faraday key pouch though. Digital key does still communicate with the vehicle, if you arent planning to use that feature might be best not to activate it. Its a bit irritating but cars arent going to get any less technologically advanced. If you are dealing with a parasitic drain, this is likely the culprit.
That’s all well and good but how would I switch it back should I find I don’t like it working that way and want to revert to having it ping the fob?
 
That’s all well and good but how would I switch it back should I find I don’t like it working that way and want to revert to having it ping the fob?
When you unlock using the key fob original operation is restored. You have to press lock and unlock everytime you want to block pinging the fob. This also disables the door handle lock/unlock functionality.
 
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