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Using a 200$ fuel/air map program chip from "chipyourcar.com" I am getting average 40mpg on highway, with as high as 42.9 so far. This was going through a large city at 5pm traffic. I am looking forward to testing it on a longer trip with flatter roads and less traffic.

This is on the 1.6T engine.
 

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Using a 200$ fuel/air map program chip from "chipyourcar.com" I am getting average 40mpg on highway, with as high as 42.9 so far. This was going through a large city at 5pm traffic. I am looking forward to testing it on a longer trip with flatter roads and less traffic.

This is on the 1.6T engine.

Ok, so you altered your ecu by bypassing it. What stage did you buy from these guys? Stage 1, 2 or 3? And how much faster was it?
 

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I getting 36-39 miles per gallon with the Ultimate FWD 1.6T around town and rural driving. HWY should be better but we'll see. Just dropped in a K & N which should also help a little.:grin:
 

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I getting 36-39 miles per gallon with the Ultimate FWD 1.6T around town and rural driving. HWY should be better but we'll see. Just dropped in a K & N which should also help a little.:grin:
only 28 here... only 95 and 98 oct available here... could this contribute to this heavy drinking or lies the blame solely with my heavy foot? :surprise:
 

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Mmmmmm could be!
 

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I getting 36-39 miles per gallon with the Ultimate FWD 1.6T around town and rural driving. HWY should be better but we'll see. Just dropped in a K & N which should also help a little.:grin:
Is that with a chip?
K&N air filter? I was looking at those online. Says million mile warranty. Do they ever need changed??
 

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Is that with a chip?
K&N air filter? I was looking at those online. Says million mile warranty. Do they ever need changed??
No, just standard tune. Haven't got to the piggyback ECU yet but it's coming. Yes sir they are and they've worked well for me for decades in motorcycles as well. Takes about 5 minutes to install. Lifting the hood and removing the clips takes longer than changing it, thanks to Hyundai's access, which is great.

I will be using a piggyback ECU with the proper tune once it arrives. Will take less than 10 minutes to install. On a standard 1.6T is will raise whp to around 228 and torque to around 275 ft lbs.
 

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I will be using a piggyback ECU with the proper tune once it arrives. No chips or actual ECU modifications. Used one on our GLA45 AMG and it made near 400 whp. Will take less than 10 minutes to install. On a standard 1.6T is will raise whp to around 228 and torque to around 275 ft lbs.

With the Jun BL Exhaust BL Exhaust, SYSTEM Intake, (down pipe and larger intercooler (when they are available) somewhere around 250+ whp.
 

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No, just standard tune. Haven't got to the piggyback ECU yet but it's coming. Yes sir they are and they've worked well for me for decades in motorcycles as well. Takes about 5 minutes to install. Lifting the hood and removing the clips takes longer than changing it, thanks to Hyundai's access, which is great.

I will be using a piggyback ECU with the proper tune once it arrives. Will take less than 10 minutes to install. On a standard 1.6T is will raise whp to around 228 and torque to around 275 ft lbs.
Wow. I can’t believe that mpg! Best Ive gotten was 34 on a 450 mile mostly hwy trip.

So do those filter have to be changed?

I was reading on chipmycar a bit.
 

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Wow. I can’t believe that mpg! Best Ive gotten was 34 on a 450 mile mostly hwy trip.

So do those filter have to be changed?

I was reading on chipmycar a bit.
Know they don't have to be changed but cleaned at periodic intervals and re-oiled. I drive on the conservative side, so I may be the exception not the rule.
Don't need tickets or an accident:grin:
 

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I will be using a piggyback ECU with the proper tune once it arrives. No chips or actual ECU modifications. Used one on our GLA45 AMG and it made near 400 whp. Will take less than 10 minutes to install. On a standard 1.6T is will raise whp to around 228 and torque to around 275 ft lbs.

With the Jun BL Exhaust BL Exhaust, SYSTEM Intake, (down pipe and larger intercooler (when they are available) somewhere around 250+ whp.
And all that doesn't affect your warranty? :surprise:
 

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And all that doesn't affect your warranty? :surprise:
Not, if you get permission from your dealer.:grin: I ask before I act. I don't like asking for forgiveness it better to ask for permission first.:wink:

The piggyback only deals with the MAF and injection and doesn't change any of the ECU setting. The intake is the only questionable modification but if they say it's ok and well warranty it that's up to the dealer alone. We had a Ford Fiesta ST we modified and was around 300 whp after the modifications. We ask to make them and the dealer was more excited then we were to see what could be accomplished with bolt ons. Kept the warranty intact also.
 

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Most don't ask first and when a warranty claim arises, they generally get denied. However warranty claims are initiated from the dealer, not Hyundai. There has to be a direct connection to the modification causing the failure and warranted claim. If done correctly and above board, there are generally no problems. However, you can't make internal engine modifications. That's a big; "NO, NO!" . This includes upgrading injectors rails, injectors, elimination of emission equipment, tracking the vehicle, etc. These aren't allowed in most cases. The vehicle can't be used for "commercial transport," unless it was purchased and warranted for this use either.

Oil for instance; if you don't, maintain minimum warranty standards for changing oil and type oil utilized, you can run the risk of a warranty denial. You can do the maintenance yourself, however you'd better have it verifiable, with complete records ie., oil, filter, and correct amounts changed, with receipts and when accomplished. It better mesh with Hyundai's minimum standard, frequency changing requirements, can result in a denied warranty claim for any possible internal engine part or engine failure. It's plainly spelled out. This also includes inspection of drive train, safety equipment, brakes, electronic systems and anything which is specified at the time of the actual Hyundai service interval. If you utilize a non-API oil and it's established you have the can result. These are well established facts.

http://www.api.org/~/media/Files/Certification/Engine-Oil-Diesel/Publications/17thed1509addendum7rev021218.pdf

However, you'd better be able to show them, the actual maintenance, and inspections were performed, within the minimum manufacture specifications allotted. You don't have to take it to them for maintenance but it's advised and expedient for you as the consumer. You can have your oil changes done by a fast lube but you have to be able to verify it as done as per warranty specifications.

I have a great relationship with my dealer. We communicate well on anything of importance with either of my vehicles. Nothing is left to guessing or hid. That's why it's best to make sure you ask first before doing a specific modification. Always rule on the conservative side and you'll be alright. Make sure if you're going beyond, get permission and it's best in writing also.
 

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Stage 3, Normal feels like sport mode now.

I have not really "tested" the sport mode as I am still taking it easy since I am just hitting 1300 miles.

At 1,300 miles, you are fully broken in with a modern lose anti-friction based motor. Gone are the days of the tight motor. Bearing are broken in by 50 miles, and then its all about loading the rings. I started full boost low rpm at 50 miles to load the rings. It is key to start loading the ring as soon as possible since there is a window where your effort does the most good. I consider my motor fully broken in at 1,000 miles.
 

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I certainly agree with you here. Same with motorcycles, albeit they're generally tighter in engine specification. We generally give them about 150 miles @70% throttle, then after this full throttle loads with short durations until about 500. Beyond 500 miles, drive it like you stole it so-to-speak.:wink: Never look back either.
 
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