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2019 White Ultimate
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248 Posts
I installed a car rear view camera.
I assume you are using it for a dash cam purpose and not really a back up cam... Canadian models all have back up cameras by law (since May 2018, which Kona barely exist before)

Also how did you tuck the wiring?
 

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My 2018 Limited rearview mirror was simply auto dimming. I ordered an OEM rearview mirror with auto dimming, compass, and home link built in. Literally a 5 minute job to swap them out! One screw and one connector (both mirrors use the same connector which simply supplies power to the mirror). LOVE no longer having to use a garage door clicker.

Last week installed sound deadener in the doors, foam rings around door speakers, and new 6.5 door speakers.

Also had drivers and passengers windows tinted to match rear door glass.

I think I an literally down to now just filling it with gas, changing the oil, and enjoying it!

FWIW I also posted in the classifieds my factory auto dimming mirror and wiring kit for sale. It contains all needed to make a SE or SEL have a functioning auto dimming mirror
 

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Paid it off, that's what! My wife is a great money manager. She created our business. We financed 100% of the selling price at a great rate through our Credit Union and Molly paid it off in 10 months. She said I can't go looking at more cars though. 😒
 

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MAXLINER Floor mats and cargo mat from AutoAnything. Fit really well except for a little bend in the cargo mat on the left corner - just a tad too big I think.
 

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Added yellow led fog lights. Next up is an LED bar for the roof rack, dash cam, and plasti dip emblems and accents.


4267
 

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Brand new here, folks...quick question; I've installed interior LEDs on everything from BMWs to Subarus. I haven't had
any issues with any of the housings on my new Kona but one. I keep trying to pop out the center roof "Room Light" to
change it out and despite following the removal directions in the manual and using the proper tools, it won't budge. I feel
as though I'm going to snap something every single time I attempt it. I even bent one of my hard plastic popout tools!
Is there something I'm missing? Like a specific ½-inch area where there's a release? Or a "secret" for this one light???
Last thing I want to do is damage my 2-week-old baby! Thanks in advance to any who can provide assistance! 🙏
 

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Added black vinyl body molding for styling and protection. It cut quite smoothly with a box cutter.
If you try this I recommend the following steps:
Materials: Masking tape, sharp box cutter knife, pencil or pen
  1. Use masking tape to make a straight line where the top of the molding should end.
    • Pick where you want the molding to start behind the front wheel well, adhere it well there, then pull it out and back all the way and stick it by the rear wheel well where you think it should end.
    • Step back and look - does it look right? If you try to make the line horizontal it will not look good as the bottom molding and windows are not horizontal. The line should slope a few inches upwards from front to rear.
    • When you have the tape adhered to the front and back correctly, tap it against the body in the middle to adhere it there, then in the middle of the front and rear doors, then in the half-way between each of those spots, and only after you have 15 or more of these spots stuck do you want to press along the bottom edge of the tape to adhere it along the full length. Otherwise running your hand along it from front to back you will get wrinkles and a not-straight line.
  2. Front door: (the little piece for the fender comes later)
    • Using a very sharp knife, such as a box cutter with a new blade, trim the short edge of the molding at an angle so that it is beveled from the adhesive side to the outside. If you don't and you put the molding up to the very front edge of the front door it will bind when you open the door. Also the beveled leading edge will look better than a flat cut.
    • Using more masking tape, tape the front of the molding to where you want it to start on the door.
    • Using several more pieces of masking tape continue to pre-mount the molding to the edge of the front door.
    • Use a pencil or pen to mark where you need the back cut to be.
    • Remove the molding and tape and make the back cut. This will be a flat cut, but there is a slight angle to it from top to bottom.
    • Pull back a few inches of the adhesive backing from the beveled front end and press the molding in line with the bottom of the masking tape.
    • Pull a few inches, press carefully, pull a few inches, press carefully, until you reach the edge of the door.
  3. Back door:
    • The leading edge of this piece should already be trimmed at the correct angle from the last cut, but it will also need a bevel it so the rear door doesn't bind when opened.
    • Repeating the procedure from the front door, tape the molding and mark the angled cut you want at the rear, cut it, remove a little backing, press, pull more backing off, press more, etc.
  4. Fender piece:
    • Holding the leading edge of the remaining trim up to the fender use the pencil or pen to mark the front angle and the edge of the fender for those cuts.
    • Make the angled (leading edge) cut straight through, then trim it to a nice bevel. Do not try to cut the bevel at the correct angle unless you're a freaking artist at this.
    • Make the trailing edge cut straight through.
    • Pull off adhesive backing and press into place.
  5. Other side: Measure how far from the bottom of the cars existing trim the top of the new molding is on the done side, then use these measurements to place the masking tape correctly before continuing with steps 1 through 4.
  6. Finishing:
    • Using a soft cloth press hard against the molding and slide along front to back to adhere the molding firmly.
    • If you don't like the bevels you've made, you can VERY CAREFULLY trim bevels with the molding already in place.
    • Do not wash the vehicle or expose to extremes of heat or rain for 24 hours.
      4323
      4324
 

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Hey, that looks really great. Love that color with the blue.

I'm thinking of doing the same, but can't decide Anthracite Grey or Brass Monkey (on black paint).
I tested brass monkey color as well. It looks very similar to the body cladding paint of the Ultimate trim. Here is a test piece I dipped:

4547


Unfortunately I will have to redo the Hyundai emblem, as it is peeling along the bottom edge. I don't think I used a sharp enough angle while spraying.

Here is an updated picture after a wash:

4549


4548
 

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Added black vinyl body molding for styling and protection. It cut quite smoothly with a box cutter.
If you try this I recommend the following steps:
Materials: Masking tape, sharp box cutter knife, pencil or pen
  1. Use masking tape to make a straight line where the top of the molding should end.
    • Pick where you want the molding to start behind the front wheel well, adhere it well there, then pull it out and back all the way and stick it by the rear wheel well where you think it should end.
    • Step back and look - does it look right? If you try to make the line horizontal it will not look good as the bottom molding and windows are not horizontal. The line should slope a few inches upwards from front to rear.
    • When you have the tape adhered to the front and back correctly, tap it against the body in the middle to adhere it there, then in the middle of the front and rear doors, then in the half-way between each of those spots, and only after you have 15 or more of these spots stuck do you want to press along the bottom edge of the tape to adhere it along the full length. Otherwise running your hand along it from front to back you will get wrinkles and a not-straight line.
  2. Front door: (the little piece for the fender comes later)
    • Using a very sharp knife, such as a box cutter with a new blade, trim the short edge of the molding at an angle so that it is beveled from the adhesive side to the outside. If you don't and you put the molding up to the very front edge of the front door it will bind when you open the door. Also the beveled leading edge will look better than a flat cut.
    • Using more masking tape, tape the front of the molding to where you want it to start on the door.
    • Using several more pieces of masking tape continue to pre-mount the molding to the edge of the front door.
    • Use a pencil or pen to mark where you need the back cut to be.
    • Remove the molding and tape and make the back cut. This will be a flat cut, but there is a slight angle to it from top to bottom.
    • Pull back a few inches of the adhesive backing from the beveled front end and press the molding in line with the bottom of the masking tape.
    • Pull a few inches, press carefully, pull a few inches, press carefully, until you reach the edge of the door.
  3. Back door:
    • The leading edge of this piece should already be trimmed at the correct angle from the last cut, but it will also need a bevel it so the rear door doesn't bind when opened.
    • Repeating the procedure from the front door, tape the molding and mark the angled cut you want at the rear, cut it, remove a little backing, press, pull more backing off, press more, etc.
  4. Fender piece:
    • Holding the leading edge of the remaining trim up to the fender use the pencil or pen to mark the front angle and the edge of the fender for those cuts.
    • Make the angled (leading edge) cut straight through, then trim it to a nice bevel. Do not try to cut the bevel at the correct angle unless you're a freaking artist at this.
    • Make the trailing edge cut straight through.
    • Pull off adhesive backing and press into place.
  5. Other side: Measure how far from the bottom of the cars existing trim the top of the new molding is on the done side, then use these measurements to place the masking tape correctly before continuing with steps 1 through 4.
  6. Finishing:
    • Using a soft cloth press hard against the molding and slide along front to back to adhere the molding firmly.
    • If you don't like the bevels you've made, you can VERY CAREFULLY trim bevels with the molding already in place.
    • Do not wash the vehicle or expose to extremes of heat or rain for 24 hours. View attachment 4323 View attachment 4324
 
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