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Started the process for upgraded Titanium valves. Once i get our basic specs, i can see about a 1mm oversize, a 5 angle valve job with back cut. Hoping to get approval on hollow stem valves, like those used on my last car.
 

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Are going to go with sodium filled?
For the Exhaust valves, no. After nearly an hour of discussion with a Manley rep, and im calling Ferrea for tech support as well, im leading towards steel hollow stem valves, for cost to weight and cost to gain reasons. Titanium is the way to go for high hp, but the price is cost prohibitive for a custom set of valves. I like the traditional steel valves with hollow stems, as its a 18-22% drop in weight for only a few dollars more then regular valves, Also, the overall stress levels of the spring decrease anywhere from 20 to 30%. Sodium filled exhaust valves are really 3 piece valves, and though rare, they can explode or separate under certain conditions. Particularly, very high fuel pressure and combustion pressures.
 

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sodium filled valves tend to have thin walls and can fail under extreme stress.
They are used on the z06s and from my 15 years on the Corvettes forums and ownership never saw a Related issue.. but that wasn’t with GDI or FI
most of the c6,c7 crowd went with hollow stainless steel.. sodium filled is lighter as well Than solid. different application, but still pertinent

For the Exhaust valves, no. After nearly an hour of discussion with a Manley rep, and im calling Ferrea for tech support as well, im leading towards steel hollow stem valves, for cost to weight and cost to gain reasons. Titanium is the way to go for high hp, but the price is cost prohibitive for a custom set of valves. I like the traditional steel valves with hollow stems, as its a 18-22% drop in weight for only a few dollars more then regular valves, Also, the overall stress levels of the spring decrease anywhere from 20 to 30%. Sodium filled exhaust valves are really 3 piece valves, and though rare, they can explode or separate under certain conditions. Particularly, very high fuel pressure and combustion pressures.
 

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For the Exhaust valves, no. After nearly an hour of discussion with a Manley rep, and im calling Ferrea for tech support as well, im leading towards steel hollow stem valves, for cost to weight and cost to gain reasons. Titanium is the way to go for high hp, but the price is cost prohibitive for a custom set of valves. I like the traditional steel valves with hollow stems, as its a 18-22% drop in weight for only a few dollars more then regular valves, Also, the overall stress levels of the spring decrease anywhere from 20 to 30%. Sodium filled exhaust valves are really 3 piece valves, and though rare, they can explode or separate under certain conditions. Particularly, very high fuel pressure and combustion pressures.
The N’s have sodium filled.
 

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I'd like to know more about this. Source? Was it a perfect fit? Ease of install? Thank you.
Interior LEDs - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/254241393687

Meh. Install was easyish, but the bulbs themselves were built cheap. Broke one or two trying to get them to fit (tolerances were off). I also don't love the 6000°K color temperature... It's a little too blue for me. But all in all not terrible for the price.

Sport Pedals - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/113008187921

These are OE. Perfect fit, install took literally two minutes. Well worth the price if you like the look.

Weathertech Mats - https://www.weathertech.com/hyundai/2019/kona/floorliner-digitalfit/

Not everybody loves weathertech, but that's usually about looks or price. Quality is unmatched. They're on my essentials list. Install is five minutes with the "digitalfit" mats. Perfect fit.

Blacked out Hyundai badges: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.de/ulk/itm/174077958615

These aren't here yet. From what I can gather, they're actually plastic covers that go over the badges. Just weird enough for me to try. ? I'll be sure to update once I get them installed.
 

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Started the process for upgraded Titanium valves. Once i get our basic specs, i can see about a 1mm oversize, a 5 angle valve job with back cut. Hoping to get approval on hollow stem valves, like those used on my last car.
 

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Started the process for upgraded Titanium valves. Once i get our basic specs, i can see about a 1mm oversize, a 5 angle valve job with back cut. Hoping to get approval on hollow stem valves, like those used on my last car.
What are the head size of the intake and exhaust in the Kona?
 

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Just took care of some much needed maintenance. Oil change and gear oil change. And checked on the flywheel.

3496


3497

3498
 

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Looks like it was time. How many miles?

As you know, you also have the option to go with 75w-85 GL-4 with all the Hyundai/Kia certifications that the 70w-75 doesn't have. Not that it is a big deal, but if you have higher hp , thrash your car more then normal or the biggest need, towing it is a great upgrade to do. It is what Hyundai "would of used " if it wasn't for Hyundai being forced to use low viscosity for mileage as their main concern with the CAFE standards ""BS"", then being more concerned on wear. I was able to talk to Redline's R&D oil chemist when Dave was on vacation and was not their "firewall" to get to talk to the oil engineers. I questioned him what would you use if it was your car and he said MT-85 or even MT-90 if you were down south, is the way to go with any hard use over the 70w-75. I chose the MT-85 since it still is good for use in -30F Minnesota winters.


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Looks like it was time. How many miles?

As you know, you also have the option to go with 75w-85 GL-4 with all the Hyundai/Kia certifications that the 70w-75 doesn't have. Not that it is a big deal, but if you have higher hp , thrash your car more then normal or the biggest need, towing it is a great upgrade to do. It is what Hyundai "would of used " if it wasn't for Hyundai being forced to use low viscosity for mileage as their main concern with the CAFE standards ""BS"", then being more concerned on wear. I was able to talk to Redline's R&D oil chemist when Dave was on vacation and was not their "firewall" to get to talk to the oil engineers. I questioned him what would you use if it was your car and he said MT-85 or even MT-90 if you were down south, is the way to go with any hard use over the 70w-75. I chose the MT-85 since it still is good for use in -30F Minnesota winters.


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All i know is that it feels really weird with the new fluid. It reminds me alot of my old CVT transmission. Flawless smooth shifting. No odd sounds, no hard shifts, no vibrations, just pure instant acceleration.
 

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is that the friction material depth I’m looking at ?
Thanks for posting!
My Apologies, i missed this reply. For the flywheel, im looking for 3 things. 1) wear in the outer teeth, 2) the condition of the outer plate segments, and 3 the condition of the balancing weights.
 

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Did the tow hook license plate mount. Couldn't justify spending $75-90 on one so I gave a "Kia Stinger" made one on amazon for $24. It works, but is a tight fit. Will add electrical tape to the contact points so my paint doesn't get scratched. I'll update if the plate starts spinning.

Don't buy any that are before 2018 model years (lots are made for the last gen veloster) and from my research none of those fit the current gen vehicles. thats why I went with the kia stinger one.

 

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