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Just had my first oil change done by the dealer, I requested synthetic oil and said I’ll pay for it, looked at the invoice and it says 00279- mb5w2 . Is that synthetic? All the web say is that it is Toyota oil.
 

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Just had my first oil change done by the dealer, I requested synthetic oil and said I’ll pay for it, looked at the invoice and it says 00279- mb5w2 . Is that synthetic? All the web say is that it is Toyota oil.
Looks like Mobil? 5w20 ?? I had them upgrade to synthetic on my change and was charged $18 for the upgrade to synthetic.. Looks like you will have to ask them to clarify.. but not to worry.. you can always get it the next change.. No harm done..
 

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The se and sel are going to be less picky on oil since LSPI is less of a problem compared to the 1.6t. So that oil should be just fine. I also found that to be Toyota oil which is very strange as Hyundai I thought almost primarily uses Quaker State. I would have expected Quaker ultimate durability 5w20 if you asked for synthetic. I am going to guess they ran out or the receipt part number is wrong and being used as a place holder.
 

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I’m going to have to believe they use the oil I asked for, next time I’ll do it myself, saw a gallon of Castrol full synthetic for gdi engines and turbos at Walmart for $26. Even though my kona is a regular 2.0 gdi engine . Any idea what size oil filter wrench is for the Hyundai kona filter?
 

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The se and sel are going to be less picky on oil since LSPI is less of a problem compared to the 1.6t. So that oil should be just fine. I also found that to be Toyota oil which is very strange as Hyundai I thought almost primarily uses Quaker State. I would have expected Quaker ultimate durability 5w20 if you asked for synthetic. I am going to guess they ran out or the receipt part number is wrong and being used as a place holder.

While Hyundai gets paid or gets a discount to use Quaker State, most dealers use 55 gallon drums of what every "they" want to buy. Some use name brand high end oil, some don't. Roll the dice on even getting "the correct" answer even if you ask.


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I’m going to have to believe they use the oil I asked for, next time I’ll do it myself, saw a gallon of Castrol full synthetic for gdi engines and turbos at Walmart for $26. Even though my kona is a regular 2.0 gdi engine . Any idea what size oil filter wrench is for the Hyundai kona filter?
At my local Walmart they have Quaker State ultimate durability for $20. They also have the Hyundai OEM oil filter for $6.
So look at yours and see if they have the same. That is the cheapest way for me to get a quality oil change myself.

I buy Shell Rotella gas truck oil personally for $24 on my 1.6t.

SN Plus and Dexos gen2 are good for GDI.
 

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surprised that synthetic oil is not the norm for these engines,
specially gdi engines. carbon build up is a problem in high mileage cars.
full synthetic and frequent oil changes helps a little..

thanks
 

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I think you need/want the standard fill in the engine (ours is the 1.6T ) for at least the first 1,000 miles to get the excess machining metals due to break in out of the engine. We did a standard oil/filter change at ~1,000 miles and it had significant metals and fuel in the oil (I always get an analysis for the first few oil changes to establish a baseline for a new engine.)

We're up to almost 2,000 miles now, and I'll convert ours over to Mobile 1 full synthetic at ~3,500 miles. By then all the engine break in should be complete, an the parts should all know each other. After that, I'll watch and see how the looks and smells to determine oil changes. Likely will be roughly 3-5,000 miles between changes, unless the oil analysis spots and issues that need to be addressed.

One big strength on Hyundai is the 100,000 mile (10 years) warranty on the drive train. Here is the oil analysis on our 1st change.

https://thumbnails-photos.amazon.com/v1/thumbnail/X9ZiT6_wT1umbir6aRLWmg?viewBox=352,625&ownerId=A3LV6SSJXBAN9U
 

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I had a GMC Terrain with a DI engine. I had an issue from day one due to the 8 to 10% fuel in the oil. I did UOA's at every oil change and even the company GMC told me to send a sample because they didn't believe the analyzer I used. They all came back saying that was not acceptable, but GM said that was normal. I told the service manager if he would let me bring a pint or 2 of gas and pore it into his oil. He said ABSOLUTELY NOT. :) That's one of the reasons why I got rid of the Terrain.

I said I would never buy another car with a DI engine and here I am with another one. I think most cars now have DI engines. At least I have a 10 year warranty as dklanecky1 said.

I will never use anything but FULL synthetic oil in any of my vehicles. I use to be an Amsoil dealer because it was worth it to me because I used so much oil.
I will use any name brand synthetic oil after my prepaid service contract is over.

I still have a few oil filters for my 2001 Tiberon, Does anyone know if I can use those filters in the Kona???
 

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I had a GMC Terrain with a DI engine. I had an issue from day one due to the 8 to 10% fuel in the oil. I did UOA's at every oil change and even the company GMC told me to send a sample because they didn't believe the analyzer I used. They all came back saying that was not acceptable, but GM said that was normal. I told the service manager if he would let me bring a pint or 2 of gas and pore it into his oil. He said ABSOLUTELY NOT. :) That's one of the reasons why I got rid of the Terrain.

I said I would never buy another car with a DI engine and here I am with another one. I think most cars now have DI engines. At least I have a 10 year warranty as dklanecky1 said.

I will never use anything but FULL synthetic oil in any of my vehicles. I use to be an Amsoil dealer because it was worth it to me because I used so much oil.
I will use any name brand synthetic oil after my prepaid service contract is over.

I still have a few oil filters for my 2001 Tiberon, Does anyone know if I can use those filters in the Kona???

I would only use a speced oil filter because OEM Hyundai or say Fram Ultra since if any warranty comes up you will be safe. With a Fram Ultra you have Frams R&D dept backing you that it's fully documented to excced Hyundai's Swiss Cheese filter. They say they only recommend the Hyundai filter and high efffecent filters can be a problem. Well, Fram sent back their Hyundai #erd filters back to R&D 5 years ago when Hyundaistarted to have oil issues, so now we know the FRam is fully speced to meet or beat the OEM Hyundai Swiss Cheese filter which is a paper filter and the FRam is a 3D filtering filter so it can filter better and still flow better then the OEM.

Watch how much you throw around the UOA at Hyundai ...they have been known to use them against you, just to "skate" out of giving you a warranty. Keep those close to your belt for your own info.



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What? What worst oil filter...Fram?

YEP!!

I just watched another guy cut open some filters. It confirmed what I've read and heard for many years in forums and from mechanics.
Fram was the absolute worst. All paper and cardboard internals. He called them "Pure Crap"

Wix and Napa Gold were the best
Purolator and Bosch were decent filters
I've been using Amsoil filters for years in my Harley and cars. Amsoil also sells Wix filters.
 

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They might be made out of card board. I have not read any documented failure on them yet. They are also OEM filters for Honda. Personally, I would avoid them.

Fram's Ultra filter is a different story.
 

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The Fram Ultra is a totally different animal. It is one of the top 2 rated best filters at Bobstheoilguy oil site. There is no cardboard in it , just steel end caps. The guy who posted the one you saw is totally clueless, I think I know the video you are talking about. I too would never put a regular Fram on a car either. But then again , I have yet to see a failure of the cardboard end caps, so it is an engineering problem that has been solved and people who don’t know any better, and just whining about nothing.
 

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I doubt the guy cut open a filter, stuffed cardboard material in it, welded it back up and then cut it open again to show the crap inside.
I'll still take the word of dozens of mechanics and other comparisons not just this one guy.
Why even remotely take a chance when there are dozens of better filters out there for only a few pennies more.
People go to ridiculous lengths to use top tier gas and then use inferior oil filters?? Doesn't make sense.

End caps don't make the filter, the filtering media by far is the most important component.

Bottom line is use what makes you feel comfortable. For me it's Amsoil or Wix
 

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I doubt the guy cut open a filter, stuffed cardboard material in it, welded it back up and then cut it open again to show the crap inside.
I'll still take the word of dozens of mechanics and other comparisons not just this one guy.
Why even remotely take a chance when there are dozens of better filters out there for only a few pennies more.
People go to ridiculous lengths to use top tier gas and then use inferior oil filters?? Doesn't make sense.

End caps don't make the filter, the filtering media by far is the most important component.

Bottom line is use what makes you feel comfortable. For me it's Amsoil or Wix
Yes, then we agree, Fram Ultras are top tier oil filters. They have even better rated "media" then your Amsoil ones. It's about the MEDIA you know!! There are NOT a dozen better oil filters then the Fram Ultra, it is he top 3 oil filters made. They are Rotal Purple, Amsoil and Fram Ultra for the tie, with Fram's specs a hair better. WIX regulars are not that good of filters, they may be built good, but they don't filter that good. and XP's are known to be oil flow restrictive, so a big no on a Hyundai with their "oil film boundary layer issue on almost all their engines and luckily for us the 1.6T has the least of those issues.

Again, you seem to be judging the crap orange can Fram's as the only oil filters they make. They have 3 tiers of filter quality and for some reason everyone thinks the crappiest is the only one they make. And most mechanics seem to also. The Ultra is it's own filter, and has metal caps , and to be accurate the Fram end caps are not cardboard they are fiberboard, And you do know Fram builds some of Amsoil filters, Royal Purple filters and K&N oil filters.

Also GM's AC Delco's some have fiberboard end caps, not glued near as good as Fram's

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4030234/Re:_New_AC_Delco_PF1250_15125E


Fram crappy filter on the left (wouldn't use it). Fram Ultra on the right.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2017/10/full-37990-13699-394417d1_8104_41aa_a7ef_25cb1e395a62.jpeg


Here are some known specs of the two. Both are great filters.

The Amsoil uses a single thick layer of synthetic media to achieve the 98.7% efficiency rating at 20 microns The Fram Ultra uses two layers of a thinner media and achieves a 99%+ efficiency rating at 20 microns.

I am not a big Fram fanboy but when people poo poo Fram Ultra's from pure lack of any proper research and going by internet FUD, I will comment on it. And I am not some schmuck that never has picked up a wrench , I was going to be an auto engine machinist, but got side tracked to another field, and owned a hobby Audi repair shop for years and build many custom race motors in my day. I also do a lot of work with oil and filtration high end machinery at my work. I also took on the worlds largest rotary screw manufacture proving their OEM group 4 (PAO) oil is inadequate for their machines with a full group of testing and scientific change data. Fixing their inherent final outcome of fully varnishing up their compressors with their choice of oil because of what I feel is a design flaw. I have worked with a handful of oil engineers on oil and filter issue in an advanced industrial setting. So I feel I have some idea on oil filters as a layman. I feel you are 100% dead wrong on calling Fram Ultra marginal filters when they are clearly one of the better filters on the market today, and affordably priced and readily available at Walmart.
 

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Post 2017 gas engines require a synthetic or synthetic blend motor oil as the dino oils cannot meet the new multi grade specs from the API that were set in November of 2017

Per the API:

"Oils licensed by API as API SN with SN PLUS and Resource Conserving and ILSAC GF-5 are eligible to display the API Certification Mark Starburst"

These oils were developed over a period of years to meet the new EPA mandated requirements to improve fuel economy. There are now 0W-16 and 0W-20 oils for turbo and direct injected engines that provide significant improvements in lubrication. Any oil that meets the API specification is going to be as good as any other for current gas engines.

I use the vehicle computer to tell me when an oil change is needed. Mileage is meaningless. If I do a lot of around town driving with an average speed of 30 mph and go 6,000 miles I have put 200 hours on the engine and the motor oil. If I do mostly freeway driving and average 60 mph for the same 6,000 miles I have put 100 hours on the engine and the motor oil or half the wear factor.

With the elimination of leaded gas, engines can go a lot longer between oil changes, and then there are the better oils and better engine alloys and tighter tolerances and better designs. Frankly it is dumb to change the oil more often than the DIC indicates. Oil is to costly to produce with our trillion dollar military spending each year to guarantee that the oil companies are free to grab as much oil as possible from countries overseas, to then waste it on a whim.
 
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