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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Most of this wont be useful to the average owner. However for those few rare added performance owners, here is some info that might help in the search for better hardware. My apologies if the charts come out funky, i'm still working on making them right. MORE will be updated as i find them, and i will update with available performance options when they become available/

Specs of OE Valve Springs:

Material High Alloy Steel
Coil Bind Height 0.850 in
Open Height 1.062 in
Open Pressure 72 PSI
Closed Height 1.312 in
Closed Pressure 32 PSI
Spring Type Single Spring


Specs of OE Intake Valves:

Material Stainless Steel
Oversized No
Valve Head Diameter 1.238 in
Valve Head Diameter 31.450 mm
Length 3.668 in
Length 93.1672 mm
Coated Finish Yes
Seat Angle 45.0 deg
Lock Groove Quantity 1
Stem Diameter .216 in
Stem Diameter 5.490 mm
 

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You forgot the exhaust valve specs. Dinky valve size. Do you have room to do a big valve head? My old VW 1.5 , you could put in 40mm Int/35 mm Exh. is there much room between the valves?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You forgot the exhaust valve specs. Dinky valve size. Do you have room to do a big valve head? My old VW 1.5 , you could put in 40mm Int/35 mm Exh. is there much room between the valves?
I didn't forget the Exh valves, i dont have those specs yet
 

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I like that KDM oil pan, but it cost too much. They are just the middle man it was a crowd source project that looks like it will be coming come to forwishen. It would be nice to have a steel baffled pan and cut the price in half or more. But if you tank a motor, they will blame the oil pan . Better to suck air and let Hyundai get ANOTHER rod cooked engine that seems to be right up there as there #1 or #2 engine new engine warranty problem. I was going to buy an Accu-sump, but fear warranty if the motor tanks. So I just over fill by 1/2 a qt and pray. I worry sucking air in long high G sweepers, IE exit ramps. Sad you can't help save your motor, out of fear of a manufacture warranty denial.
 

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Your right ....its stuffed. I had old school 2 valve on the on the brain, and I concentrating at the between cylinders as more room. I had 6mm between cylinders. That's how long I have been out of engine building. 30 years.

I would just concentrate on a good port job personally.
open deck too.. not intended to handle high HP..
 

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I like that KDM oil pan, but it cost too much. They are just the middle man it was a crowd source project that looks like it will be coming come to forwishen. It would be nice to have a steel baffled pan and cut the price in half or more. But if you tank a motor, they will blame the oil pan . Better to suck air and let Hyundai get ANOTHER rod cooked engine that seems to be right up there as there #1 or #2 engine new engine warranty problem. I was going to buy an Accu-sump, but fear warranty if the motor tanks. So I just over fill by 1/2 a qt and pray. I worry sucking air in long high G sweepers, IE exit ramps. Sad you can't help save your motor, out of fear of a manufacture warranty denial.
Do we know if there are any baffles in the existing stock pan ? Or something that lends to helping oil pickup starvation ?
The car is pretty capable stock, I would think the OEM maybe took some precautions..
 

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Do we know if there are any baffles in the existing stock pan ? Or something that lends to helping oil pickup starvation ?
The car is pretty capable stock, I would think the OEM maybe took some precautions..
No, nothing that I have seen when researching it. I would buy one at the first $ 359 they offered it at to get it going for the first 2 weeks, even $400, you can swallow that, but now they want $700, sorry too much $$$.

Make it out of steel . Make it somewhat affordable. I don’t want it out of billet aluminum, at that price. Charge less and make it out of steel. Take the oil cooling out for less money. I was thinking I may weld something up myself. It won’t be near as good but better then the bathtub pan we have now. There is not much pan there to start with. Some of the oil is held up in the aluminum lower wind age tray sub assembly. Adding small wings to stop oil from riding up the loaded wheel side will help stop the wholesale load of oil roling up the side of the engine case.

Pierce racing talks about acceleration and braking problems of the oil they have seen. While not a massively glaring issue, it would be nice to fix some of it. Maybe an Accu-Sump is the way to go, but that would cost a bit more then the billet pan. I guess we need to look at the Veloster N and see if Hyundai did anything there. I will look into that , if I can find the time.
 

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I agree.. stamped steel wouldn’t look as pretty or as light weight.. but we’re not talking about a big pan here.. it would work fine For a sump. My C6 had a blurb about adding an extra qt of oil for track use, but dumping it after track use. Too high a level will suds up the oil by the crank whipping and then you’re sucking in air.. be sure you can add some safely..might be your best bet for now..

No, nothing that I have seen when researching it. I would buy one at the first $ 359 they offered it at to get it going for the first 2 weeks, even $400, you can swallow that, but now they want $700, sorry too much $$$.

Make it out of steel . Make it somewhat affordable. I don’t want it out of billet aluminum, at that price. Charge less and make it out of steel. Take the oil cooling out for less money. I was thinking I may weld something up myself. It won’t be near as good but better then the bathtub pan we have now. There is not much pan there to start with. Some of the oil is held up in the aluminum lower wind age tray sub assembly. Adding small wings to stop oil from riding up the loaded wheel side will help stop the wholesale load of oil roling up the side of the engine case.

Pierce racing talks about acceleration and braking problems of the oil they have seen. While not a massively glaring issue, it would be nice to fix some of it. Maybe an Accu-Sump is the way to go, but that would cost a bit more then the billet pan. I guess we need to look at the Veloster N and see if Hyundai did anything there. I will look into that , if I can find the time.
 

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I like that KDM oil pan, but it cost too much. They are just the middle man it was a crowd source project that looks like it will be coming come to forwishen. It would be nice to have a steel baffled pan and cut the price in half or more. But if you tank a motor, they will blame the oil pan . Better to suck air and let Hyundai get ANOTHER rod cooked engine that seems to be right up there as there #1 or #2 engine new engine warranty problem. I was going to buy an Accu-sump, but fear warranty if the motor tanks. So I just over fill by 1/2 a qt and pray. I worry sucking air in long high G sweepers, IE exit ramps. Sad you can't help save your motor, out of fear of a manufacture warranty denial.
It looks like the KDM guy was possibly the guy starting the crowd funding.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I like that KDM oil pan, but it cost too much. They are just the middle man it was a crowd source project that looks like it will be coming come to forwishen. It would be nice to have a steel baffled pan and cut the price in half or more. But if you tank a motor, they will blame the oil pan . Better to suck air and let Hyundai get ANOTHER rod cooked engine that seems to be right up there as there #1 or #2 engine new engine warranty problem. I was going to buy an Accu-sump, but fear warranty if the motor tanks. So I just over fill by 1/2 a qt and pray. I worry sucking air in long high G sweepers, IE exit ramps. Sad you can't help save your motor, out of fear of a manufacture warranty denial.
I liked that the oil drain port was on the back side, but other then that, its a waste. When i was at the Sxth Element open house, i took alot of notes on the G4FJ they had on display with a gapping hole between cylinder 1 and 2. It was being used for mockup on a new Veloster turbo setup. The oil pan is tiny and no real need for baffles. The big issue i did notice is a plate at the bottom edge of the cranks rotation, that has rectangular cut outs in it. Im thinking its there to prevent windage, but if you have alot of oil returning from up top, the rotating assembly may be whipping the oil before it has time to descend into the pan. Which may also explain the oil foaming issue my Kona seems to have.

I've sent an email requesting a scan/cad imaging and specs of the crank/bearings/caps, for an involved idea that worked amazing on my last car. Its an Old school solution for a modern engine, a crank scraper.

Now you probably already figured out by now, im currently the only person here willing to take a deep dive into an engine i know little about. I do know mostly specs of some of the components, its reliability, and its known shortcomings. I do have a plan to overhaul the engine, and the majority of the current kits available are basic upgrades. Thats why im looking into a custom build. There is a series of issues i have with the current engine, that i intend to rectify asap.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No, nothing that I have seen when researching it. I would buy one at the first $ 359 they offered it at to get it going for the first 2 weeks, even $400, you can swallow that, but now they want $700, sorry too much $$$.

Make it out of steel . Make it somewhat affordable. I don’t want it out of billet aluminum, at that price. Charge less and make it out of steel. Take the oil cooling out for less money. I was thinking I may weld something up myself. It won’t be near as good but better then the bathtub pan we have now. There is not much pan there to start with. Some of the oil is held up in the aluminum lower wind age tray sub assembly. Adding small wings to stop oil from riding up the loaded wheel side will help stop the wholesale load of oil roling up the side of the engine case.

Pierce racing talks about acceleration and braking problems of the oil they have seen. While not a massively glaring issue, it would be nice to fix some of it. Maybe an Accu-Sump is the way to go, but that would cost a bit more then the billet pan. I guess we need to look at the Veloster N and see if Hyundai did anything there. I will look into that , if I can find the time.
An Accu-sump is not really expensive, especially if you go with the Moroso over the Canton.

Any chance your looking at an air to oil cooler as opposed to the oe oil cooler that uses coolant?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Do you happen to have any good picture links to our cylinder head of the combustion chamber and ports or hopefully bowls?
Currently no, though im thinking of picking up a head from a totalled Kona and see what i can do. I know that the Veloster heads are cheaper, but they are also different then that of the Kona, the Elantra GT should be close, but also just as hard to source as the Kona's.
 

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I liked that the oil drain port was on the back side, but other then that, its a waste. When i was at the Sxth Element open house, i took alot of notes on the G4FJ they had on display with a gapping hole between cylinder 1 and 2. It was being used for mockup on a new Veloster turbo setup. The oil pan is tiny and no real need for baffles. The big issue i did notice is a plate at the bottom edge of the cranks rotation, that has rectangular cut outs in it. Im thinking its there to prevent windage, but if you have alot of oil returning from up top, the rotating assembly may be whipping the oil before it has time to descend into the pan. Which may also explain the oil foaming issue my Kona seems to have.

I've sent an email requesting a scan/cad imaging and specs of the crank/bearings/caps, for an involved idea that worked amazing on my last car. Its an Old school solution for a modern engine, a crank scraper.

Now you probably already figured out by now, im currently the only person here willing to take a deep dive into an engine i know little about. I do know mostly specs of some of the components, its reliability, and its known shortcomings. I do have a plan to overhaul the engine, and the majority of the current kits available are basic upgrades. Thats why im looking into a custom build. There is a series of issues i have with the current engine, that i intend to rectify asap.
The tiny pan is just a pan and no baffles what so ever, The oil gets forced up on the side walls of the aluminum lower sub assembly with the built in windage tray. It is known the Velosters can suck micro amounts of air on all aspects of sweepers braking and drag acceleration. It's death by a 500 cuts. The billet pan is too much money. A steel on that is well designed works just as nice at 1/2 the cost. I would rather have a pan over an accu-sump out of sear maintenance, cost, install time and no wiring of the solenoid activator. an accu-sump in -10 Minnesota winters is not as conducive as a good baffled oil pan.

I would have to monitor oil temps to see if I need an external cooler. What are your highest temps you have seen?
 

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Currently no, though im thinking of picking up a head from a totalled Kona and see what i can do. I know that the Veloster heads are cheaper, but they are also different then that of the Kona, the Elantra GT should be close, but also just as hard to source as the Kona's.
I would think most bone yards want to sell fully loaded long blocks , so head only, are hard to find.
 
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