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Oh that's definitely what it felt like since the magnet wouldn't go flat on it. I guess I'll need to order those magnetic plugs. Going to try to change oil at 2-3k
Kind of off topic, but if someone had these "new" plugs and wanted to attach magnets to their heads could you just remove them and file the heads down flat with a hand file? The magnet would then sit flat against the head.

Of course if these are not a ferrous metal that would not work. It should be easy to check that while they are still installed.
 

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Just like the earlier plugs I can see that these are cold forged from a low grade of steel and plated. The reason for the change is unlikely to be anything other than what can be obtained at the required volume for the possible lowest cost. Certainly I don't expect that there's any engineering-based reason for the change.

External magnets could be still made to work if they were small enough in outside diameter such that they fit inside the pocket. I can't see that filing the top 'flat' is worth the trouble and it would require care to make it flat enough. But if you have access to a lathe you could turn it down.

Other options are, in no particular order:
1. Buy a pair of the old plugs if available and use external magnets.
2. Buy two of the Toyota magnetic plugs (or less-expensive aftermarket clones from a 4x4 shop) which look identical to the older plugs except for colour. I expect Hyundai service would never notice this option.
Automotive tire Camera lens Camera accessory Tire Cameras & optics

3. Buy a pair of the Votex DP007.
 

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...I expect Hyundai service would never notice this option.
After reading some of the comments here referring to service department's interaction with car owner's oil changes and plug replacements I have no doubt that would be the case. My only experience with a dealer was when I was told there was no way to adjust the low beam headlights on any recent Hyundai model only to find the very owner friendly adjustment screws right under the hood.

I think that Hyundai makes a good vehicle. But the lack of training and quality control on the part of dealers seems to be somewhere between poor and awful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #244 · (Edited)
After reading some of the comments here referring to service department's interaction with car owner's oil changes and plug replacements I have no doubt that would be the case. My only experience with a dealer was when I was told there was no way to adjust the low beam headlights on any recent Hyundai model only to find the very owner friendly adjustment screws right under the hood.

I think that Hyundai makes a good vehicle. But the lack of training and quality control on the part of dealers seems to be somewhere between poor and awful.
That comes from the top down, to some point. I like Hyundai's but can't stand Hyundai/Kia putting their head in the sand as they keep manufacturing their problems into the next model year, year after year, after year, after year. They must be close to 6 to 7 BILLION is engine warranty claims at this point, coming up on model year 2023. This is from a couple years ago self reporting 5 BILLION in engine warranty's. FIX it, my God, it can't be that hard. Most of it is metallurgy choice from what I have seen. Have "engineering attack teams" dedicated to fix on going problems. From reading this post, there should be a TSB posting to change EV reduction gearbox oil 3 times before 10,000 miles and upgrade oil viscosity with the use of GL-5 oil. And a 2 magnet plug set installed to all units. If I read one of the latest posts 2022 EV buyer are STILL receiving their cars with no magnetic plugs? More head in the sand from Hyundai/Kia. Watch, this will go on for years and years.
 

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Hi Guys and Gals,

I notice something new with my Kona EV reduction gear. It makes a new and different noise now. It sounds like a low ( faint) growl. It always had a bit of a whine, this is something new.
I have about 11K miles on it. when I go really slow, I hear a faint ticking souind. I think this is what makes the growl, as it is sped up. I have to be on a smooth road surface to hear it, it is faint enough so any tire noise masks it. I replaced my reduction gear fluid with the redline MT fluid others used arounds 8-9K, and using the Votex magnetic plug.
As it is, I do noty expect the dealer to credit it, I imasgine they "woudl not hear it", or tell me "its ok", or "they all do that" or something similarly lame.
Plan A,: I coudl wait for it to get worse, then swap the fluid again and put back the original drain plug, and then take it to the dealer.

Anybody noticed a similar noise? Tempted to do another fluid swap or go to plan A, since I have enough redline left over, and do an UOA at the same time to get some idea what is going on.
Any recommendation who to use? Blackstone?
 

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2022 EV buyer are STILL receiving their cars with no magnetic plugs? More head in the sand from Hyundai/Kia. Watch, this will go on for years and years.
As I recall we now know that the reduction gear box has an internal magnet, so the magnetic plug is ( At least according toe some) is not as important as we initially though.
 

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...It makes a new and different noise now. It sounds like a low ( faint) growl. It always had a bit of a whine, this is something new.
I have about 11K miles on it. when I go really slow, I hear a faint ticking sound. I think this is what makes the growl, as it is sped up. I have to be on a smooth road surface to hear it, it is faint enough so any tire noise masks it. I replaced my reduction gear fluid with the redline MT fluid others used arounds 8-9K, and using the Votex magnetic plug.
As it is, I don't expect the dealer to credit it, I imagine they "would not hear it", or tell me "its ok", or "they all do that" or something similarly lame.
Plan A,: I could wait for it to get worse, then swap the fluid again and put back the original drain plug, and then take it to the dealer.

Anybody noticed a similar noise? Tempted to do another fluid swap or go to plan A, since I have enough redline left over, and do an UOA at the same time to get some idea what is going on.
Any recommendation who to use? Blackstone?
This is the outcome we had hoped could be avoided by changing the oil and adding the magnetic plug as early as possible. We don't know that the "tapping" or "wheel of fortune" noise is in any way related to the lack of magnetic filtering / dirty oil, but in theory it could trigger or aggravate it because particles ingested by bearings can encourage outer-race spin in the gearbox housing, and that in turn is likely one reason for the black oil. Alternatively, it could be nothing more than the luck of the draw in terms of production and assembly tolerances.

Your Plan A sounds like the best approach in my opinion because you have the long warranty and you don't want to take any risk of them finding an excuse to deny the claim. Based on our growing knowledge of dealer responses (and the TSB here) there's every reason to believe that they will replace both gearbox and motor, but not necessarily in one visit. Reading between the lines in the TSB, I suspect the cause of all this still remains a mystery to Hyundai, as it does to us.
As I recall we now know that the reduction gear box has an internal magnet, so the magnetic plug is ( At least according to some) is not as important as we initially thought.
We have seen photos of the gearbox internals that indicate a ceramic magnet is captive internally, however one curious owner probed around with a paperclip and found it has no discernable magnetic attraction. The presence of iron particles in early oil changes and high iron levels seen in multiple used oil analyses (UOA) back up the theory that the factory magnet is ineffective. We have evidence from further UOAs that adding a magnetic substantially reduces iron levels. So, in summary, adding a magnetic is helpful. We also have found that simply adding a stack of magnets to the outside either or both existing plugs is surprisingly effective, aside from being an owner and dealer-friendly solution.
Any recommendation who to use? Blackstone?
Yes. All data is helpful and especially this as we would be looking for aluminum levels even higher than what we normally see.
 

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Can those of you you guys who heard this describe the "rumbling noise" a bit more? Does it start really faint, and does it get gradually worse? How loud?
What I have now is barely audible, the main thing that worries me is the trend. ( that is, this was not present at all earlier) .
 

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Is the Blackrock test that is suggested by folks on this thread the "Standard Analysis" test? And is it the "Transmission" test that I select? Apparently the test kit and return postal cost is free. I will give it a try.

Sorry for the basic questions. I wasn't going to test my oil but upon looking into it the test is "only" $30 US so probably worth a try. I've recycled my drain oil for the 750 mile and 3400 mile changes so it'll have to be my next one. Probably around 10K miles.
 

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Not that I've done this with BlackStone but looking through the website you'd start at the transmission option, as you've indicated.

It looks like you order the sample kit, send it back and pay online.
 

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Can those of you you guys who heard this describe the "rumbling noise" a bit more? Does it start really faint, and does it get gradually worse? How loud?
What I have now is barely audible, the main thing that worries me is the trend. ( that is, this was not present at all earlier) .
I've personally never heard it live but lots of Kona and Niro owners have posted sound clips over the years. A search on YouTube will unearth a few but many are not easy to discern amongst other noises. It's only Hyundai that call it a "rumble" while most call it tapping or the wheel of fortune noise.

This one from March 2021 seems to be representative and clear, although in an advanced state of deterioration.
 

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Just like the earlier plugs I can see that these are cold forged from a low grade of steel and plated. The reason for the change is unlikely to be anything other than what can be obtained at the required volume for the possible lowest cost. Certainly I don't expect that there's any engineering-based reason for the change.

External magnets could be still made to work if they were small enough in outside diameter such that they fit inside the pocket. I can't see that filing the top 'flat' is worth the trouble and it would require care to make it flat enough. But if you have access to a lathe you could turn it down.

Other options are, in no particular order:
1. Buy a pair of the old plugs if available and use external magnets.
2. Buy two of the Toyota magnetic plugs (or less-expensive aftermarket clones from a 4x4 shop) which look identical to the older plugs except for colour. I expect Hyundai service would never notice this option.
View attachment 7403
3. Buy a pair of the Votex DP007.
Do you happen to know what the part # for the old plugs are? I am planning to do this oil change next week and need to either get old plugs or possibly buy the toyota ones + add magnets as well. The genuine Toyota ones are only $15 on ebay
 

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I couldn't find a part number for the older OEM Hyundai plugs but several Kona owners have ordered Hyundai's "magnetic" offering (photo below) which is exactly the same including having no magnetic properties whatsoever.

The Toyota ones have identical dimensions, just a different colour. If you use those I'd suggest not adding magnets to the outside.

Lastly, some of us found that a second oil change was needed to properly clear out the discolouration of original oil. That's at your option and we don't know that it makes any measurable difference in the bigger picture.
Font Electric blue Rectangle Plastic Liquid
 

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Is it bad to add magnets on top of the Toyota magnetic one? I always thought it would help if the polarity matches
I did some casual tests with a Ø18 x 3mm thick neodymium magnet. It sticks to the outside of Toyota plug equally well in either polarity. The difference at the business end was that in one case the ceramic magnet had less attraction at the center but the steel edges near the thread had added attraction. Turned the other way there seemed to be slightly more attraction at the center than the ceramic magnet alone and similar higher attraction at the edges as in the first case. The OEM plug with the same disk magnet attached showed similar strength at the edges but nothing much in the middle. The Toyota plug without any added magnet had the least strength of any of the combinations, noting that it still worked well in the YouTube water test.

I think if you're looking for maximum magnetic strength use the Votex because it's far stronger than any of these combinations without having to add parts together or worry about polarity. The other combinations will likely all work well too, it's really your choice.
 

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@Kiwi do you think it would be possible to get a magnet on the drain plug as well as the fill plug, from above, or is there no room around the drive shaft? By the way picked up some Penrite 70/75 oil yesterday, on special at Repco $55.
 

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Still NZ$83 here but I see they are having ongoing oil sales and might get around to that grade eventually but I suspect it’s a slow seller.
It might be possible to reach that far down to the drain but frankly I haven’t tried it. I could try that later tonight when I get home, if it’s still light, otherwise tomorrow morning.

EDIT: I can just barely touch the end of the drain plug but I wouldn't be able to apply or remove magnets.
 
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