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Well, first of all, don't be worried because the vast majority never have an issue.
If you’re the type of person that takes good care of your car you might want to have it done, or DIY. The advantage is that it may run quieter than it would with dirty oil and possibly may avoid warranty repairs later.
If you decide to do it, don’t delay though.
 

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now you all got me worried, I have a 2022 with 1500 miles, should I be changing my gear oil already?
Don't worry, just change it.

Based on what I've read on this thread I would say yes, get the break in oil removed and new oil in the gearbox. I changed at 750 miles and again at 3400 miles. There was a noticeable difference in clarity (both turned black but 3400 mile oil was much much more transparent). I don't plan to change again until after 10K miles. I have the new quart in hand along with the new washers for the plugs because that day will sneak up on me!

If you are a DIYer it will be no problem. Read over Kiwi's description for your first change. For my second change I didn't do all the extra tilting to get that extra fraction of an ounce in there. I just drove her up on ramps. Drained what I could, plugged the drain hole and filled her up. That method used maybe a teaspoon less than the first change tilting the car slightly.

I will be adding exterior magnets to the fill plug. I have the Votex mag plug in the drain hole.

I hope your findings will be at least as good as mine... the end of worrying.
 

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Don't worry, just change it.

Based on what I've read on this thread I would say yes, get the break in oil removed and new oil in the gearbox. I changed at 750 miles and again at 3400 miles. There was a noticeable difference in clarity (both turned black but 3400 mile oil was much much more transparent). I don't plan to change again until after 10K miles. I have the new quart in hand along with the new washers for the plugs because that day will sneak up on me!

If you are a DIYer it will be no problem. Read over Kiwi's description for your first change. For my second change I didn't do all the extra tilting to get that extra fraction of an ounce in there. I just drove her up on ramps. Drained what I could, plugged the drain hole and filled her up. That method used maybe a teaspoon less than the first change tilting the car slightly.

I will be adding exterior magnets to the fill plug. I have the Votex mag plug in the drain hole.

I hope your findings will be at least as good as mine... the end of worrying.
Thanks for the replies, yes I am a DIYr and I would definitely want to take care of the car. As crazy as it sounds with my Hondas I changed my tranny fluid (flush and fill not full drain) with every oil change. Kept those pesky auto tranny's working till I sold the cars. Is there a a specific gear oil / synth oil everyone is using?
 

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Well, first of all, don't be worried because the vast majority never have an issue.
If you’re the type of person that takes good care of your car you might want to have it done, or DIY. The advantage is that it may run quieter than it would with dirty oil and possibly may avoid warranty repairs later.
If you decide to do it, don’t delay though.
Ok that multiquote thing didn't work. Tried to add you to above reply. Thanks for reply.
 

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found these alternatives that look just like that votex plug



I wonder how they will work.... I guess I'll have to order some parts and get this done before I hit the 3k mile mark just to see what's going on in there
 

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That should work fine although I'd use the stock aluminium washer instead of that hardened Dowty type because you're threading into cast aluminium. Be cautious of tightening, 24 lb-ft for that one.

I'll note that a number of us have been running the Votex, some for 9 months now, checking periodically that it works and stays together - which it does. It's a known quantity and I'm comfortable recommending it. These aftermarket plugs are normally made for use in engines where if the magnet drops out it's harmless. In a gearbox it's not only 100% destructive but could cause an accident as well due to locking up the wheels. I had a magnet drop out of a stainless steel magnetic plug in a 2003 VW Golf engine long ago and so I'm wary of this. This one in your link is made of steel and so the magnet is far less likely to cut loose if the glue fails, or if it isn't glued in at all, which frankly is quite likely. But if no one tests other options we won't know. You only need one magnetic plug despite that many of us are using two.

You could also use the external magnet idea which works surprisingly well, is low-cost and avoids modifying the car.
 

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That should work fine although I'd use the stock aluminium washer instead of that hardened Dowty type because you're threading into cast aluminium. Be cautious of tightening, 24 lb-ft for that one.

I'll note that a number of us have been running the Votex, some for 9 months now, checking periodically that it works and stays together - which it does. It's a known quantity and I'm comfortable recommending it. These aftermarket plugs are normally made for use in engines where if the magnet drops out it's harmless. In a gearbox it's not only 100% destructive but could cause an accident as well due to locking up the wheels. I had a magnet drop out of a stainless steel magnetic plug in a 2003 VW Golf engine long ago and so I'm wary of this. This one in your link is made of steel and so the magnet is far less likely to cut loose if the glue fails, or if it isn't glued in at all, which frankly is quite likely. But if no one tests other options we won't know. You only need one magnetic plug despite that many of us are using two.

You could also use the external magnet idea which works surprisingly well, is low-cost and avoids modifying the car.
Thanks, I usually throw some hard drive magnets on the oil filters and oil drain plugs of my cars but not sure if they are as strong as the ones posted in this thread. They are also hard to get off the metal plate they are attached to without destroying them but maybe I'll try to remove some and at minimum so that now
 

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It would be fairly easy to add a magnet or two to the filler plug from under the hood and worth doing now if you can't the change the oil for a while. The 2nd pic shows the drain plug but it looks identical.
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Ok I think I put magnets in the right place? Everyone's pictures showed a black bolt but I only saw silver ones. Maybe because mine is 2022? And not sure if it's right but fill and drain are pretty close together? Does this look right?
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Ok, that's quite unexpected ... those plugs look different from what every other example has had so far but they are certainly the drain and fill. I wonder if Hyundai have used a revised part or even corrected the problem by using magnetic plugs?
When you change the oil you'll find out if they are magnetic. Meanwhile those external magnetics can stay, they won't hurt anything. Thanks for posting, it's quite a development in this story!
Just an edit:
If these are magnetic plugs there may not be any need to change the oil, at least not soon. Removing and checking the fill plug while the car is lifted on the left side only (driver side for you) would confirm that without disturbing anything.
BTW, the item sitting on the splash guard looks to have fallen down off something, perhaps at the factory. It looks like a connector protective cover that's been discarded when it was plugged it.

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Well, we just had a post over on InsideEVs indicating that the same plugs that have shown up in an Australian 2022 example. It seems clear that they're non-magnetic unfortunately.

View attachment 7401
Oh that's definitely what it felt like since the magnet wouldn't go flat on it. I guess I'll need to order those magnetic plugs. Going to try to change oil at 2-3k
 

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Hi Kiwi, I mean an alloy with aluminium because first they are said to be non magnetic and second the appearance on my vehicle is the same colour and a similar texture to the surrounding gear case. I admit I haven't tried to access them except with an extendable mirror.
Perhaps you are correct and I've misinterpreted the comments above and on inspecting the photo again, perhaps what appears to be poor casting is rough zinc plating. If they are zinc then I wonder about the electrolytic possibilities. Tomorrow I'll use my extendable mechanic's pick up magnet and see if it sticks. I suppose that galvanised is better than black paint?
 
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