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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am not a fan of the K&N oiled style filters for long term use on the street for a daily driver. I don't like the dirt they let into the engine. I had them on my street car years ago and tried all types of oil, different brands and pre filtering to no avail. I would always have silt in my intakes. So I just pass on that style filtration for myself.

So instead of a conventional tubed intake and free flowing filter, I bought an airbox from a Veloster N and did some testing. It did not fit with the snorkel, so I ran some flex tubing with Gorilla tape to get to the cold outside air. It would be a hard custom fit because there is a radiator flange right in the way of the snorkel/box entrance that makes it a PIA. Plus, the snorkel was a bit too wide to hook up to the stock air intake area that I want to use if at all possible. As it sat, with the high loss of low end torque and not that much more mid to high to compensate for the loss of the low, I chose to move on to the Veloster R-Spec lower box and snorkel. It was just to much custom work with the radiator exit or intake flange that was in the way to keep this setup when there was another option that looked like it would work. I thought it may keep some low end torque while increasing mid to high end torque .

I then used the bottom box and the snorkel from a 2019 Veloster R-Spec where you can use the top of the Kona airbox cover. This fit like the Kona box , but the snorkel would also have to be customize, but with this one, it could be done semi easily. In testing is was so close to the N you would question if you could tell the difference. It too, killed low end torque to too high of a degree. I chose to just scrub the idea of changing the airbox for a better flowing one. Clearly the airbox and it's runners before the airbox, are used as a tuning mechanism. If I were to get an ECU tune, it would make sense to use these or if I wanted to gain the ever so micro hp and torque in the mid and top end it would be a viable add-on, but for me being stuck with an OEM Kona tune, and how I want my car to perform, it is not.

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Totally agree about the oil type filters, never been a fan. The oil fling would sometimes affect the hot wire reading on the MAF. I have used them in the past for the conical shape and fit.. but never a fan of this type of filtration..
I find you other findings interesting.. By changing the intake flow you might be giving the MAF a false reading because of the “modified” airflow, is not being read properly by the MAF.. The exhaust system is usually more than enough to create back pressure necessary for low end torque.. I would think you’re seeing the result of the MAF not getting a correct reading.. ? IMO.. 2 cents worth..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hyundai doesn't use a MAF from what I read. I don't know what they call their style of sensing, but I have seen it said many times, I just can't remember the exact name for it.
 

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I was speaking in General without knowing.. my bad..
IF it uses a MAP sensor, it wouldn’t be as sensitive to how the intake is shaped.. should either be one of the two.. unless they’re somehow calculating everything, which seems plausible considering the number of sensors and computing power these days.. will see what the manual shows..

Hyundai doesn't use a MAF from what I read. I don't know what they call their style of sensing, but I have seen it said many times, I just can't remember the exact name for it.
 

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It is indeed a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, and it sits in the middle of the intake manifold, far away from the forward section of the intake. Here it is, circled in red.

The idea of an OEM style intake box is really for only 2 reasons. 1) Keep down sound, and 2) keep out water.
Even though an open cone filter setup allows slightly warmer air to enter the engine, that doesn't really matter when the turbo is compressing that air, making it significantly hotter then engine bay and ambient temps. Thats where an intercooler comes into play. Staying airbox-less allows a less restricted airflow into the engine, Thus decreasing some power lost. The best bet, is to add the largest filter you can fit to the intake tube. The larger filter surface area will have a less restrictive path for incoming air, while still having proper filtering.

Now if you can angle your filter nearly straight down onto the snorkel connection, you achieve 2 things. 1) you would get some exterior air intake, and 2) you would have to submerge the front of the car to nearly the top of the filter before you get significant water intake issues.
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I ran both boxes without filters late at night so there was not any traffic to kick up a rock, same loss of low end torque. I did not do high speed blasts, just 1 thru 3rd gear runs, plenty to feel the personality of the boxes power band. I cleared adaptives on both boxes. The R-spec box was run for a full tank of testing. I have not tried a pulled filter in the original Kona box though, I will have to try that .
 

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I am not a fan of the K&N oiled style filters for long term use on the street for a daily driver. I don't like the dirt they let into the engine. I had them on my street car years ago and tried all types of oil, different brands and pre filtering to no avail. I would always have silt in my intakes. So I just pass on that style filtration for myself.

So instead of a conventional tubed intake and free flowing filter, I bought an airbox from a Veloster N and did some testing. It did not fit with the snorkel, so I ran some flex tubing with Gorilla tape to get to the cold outside air. It would be a hard custom fit because there is a radiator flange right in the way of the snorkel/box entrance that makes it a PIA. Plus, the snorkel was a bit too wide to hook up to the stock air intake area that I want to use if at all possible. As it sat, with the high loss of low end torque and not that much more mid to high to compensate for the loss of the low, I chose to move on to the Veloster R-Spec lower box and snorkel. It was just to much custom work with the radiator exit or intake flange that was in the way to keep this setup when there was another option that looked like it would work. I thought it may keep some low end torque while increasing mid to high end torque .

I then used the bottom box and the snorkel from a 2019 Veloster R-Spec where you can use the top of the Kona airbox cover. This fit like the Kona box , but the snorkel would also have to be customize, but with this one, it could be done semi easily. In testing is was so close to the N you would question if you could tell the difference. It too, killed low end torque to too high of a degree. I chose to just scrub the idea of changing the airbox for a better flowing one. Clearly the airbox and it's runners before the airbox, are used as a tuning mechanism. If I were to get an ECU tune, it would make sense to use these or if I wanted to gain the ever so micro hp and torque in the mid and top end it would be a viable add-on, but for me being stuck with an OEM Kona tune, and how I want my car to perform, it is not.

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http://instagr.am/p/B2obxk4Fc0H/
 
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