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Modifications, Why or why not?

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Ok guys here is something VERY interesting.

2019 Veloster as the subject. It's a late model, a different model then this forums car, but it could be relevant to our cars, I would be willing to bet. I think here my power pull back issue I am seeing that I thought at one point was clutch slip and then after getting some more events, switched it back timing or boost pull back. Most of you adding stuff, it maybe your feeling Mr. PLACEBO. Read all the Youtube comment and Tork's replys.



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Discussion Starter #22
His Dyno is interesting. I wonder if this is a turbo model? Boost, waste gate, and throttle position would be important to see here. I don't think the ecu is limiting tq, It appears the car is suffering from Throttle Body flutter. TB flutter looks exactly like that, and the cause can be something as easy as boost leak, or as pita as a signal interference between pedal position and throttle position.
 

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I know that some people are afraid of warranty woes, but atleast in the USA you have things you can do without the dreaded void.
so technically what can we do? I've been curious for a while and I for sure don't wanna wait 10 years until I can mod this beauty
 

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Im really curious why so many people are afraid to touch their vehicle. I know that some people are afraid of warranty woes, but atleast in the USA you have things you can do without the dreaded void. But what other reasons are there? Cost, NVH, inexperiance, etc???

Out of the 1.2k Members, only about 5 people are interested in better gas mileage, better acceleration, better braking/handling, even audio performance. Is the current lack of aftermarket support scaring ya'll away?

This is a friendly poll, no drama/fighting allowed. We all have our own perspectives, and thats A-OK.
http://instagr.am/p/B4_H2K4gCcJ/
 

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so technically what can we do? I've been curious for a while and I for sure don't wanna wait 10 years until I can mod this beauty
Really the only thing you have to worry about is drive line warranty. You can put in suspension, and a rectangle K&N if you want more dirt in your engine/Intake tube. You can get a Pedal Box and piggyback tune box (IE DTE tunning, DTUK, RaceChip) if too make sure you take them both off before a trip to the dealer. Rims tires, cat back exhaust.
 

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Really the only thing you have to worry about is drive line warranty. You can put in suspension, and a rectangle K&N if you want more dirt in your engine/Intake tube. You can get a Pedal Box and piggyback tune box (IE DTE tunning, DTUK, RaceChip) if too make sure you take them both off before a trip to the dealer. Rims tires, cat back exhaust.
Would putting in the Injen short ram intake void a warranty? I’d do the K&N but I want to hear more intake noises :p

and if I could, I would totally do the custom axleback exhaust like a lot of the people have done on here.
 

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sure there's things i would mod, one would be a 2" lift, sounds weird till you know i'm in a deep snow belt and rural... the rest would all be "go faster" options. none of it will happen though simply because i didn't pay for an 8 year warranty to throw it away.
 

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sure there's things i would mod, one would be a 2" lift, sounds weird till you know i'm in a deep snow belt and rural... the rest would all be "go faster" options. none of it will happen though simply because i didn't pay for an 8 year warranty to throw it away.
As for the lift, technically, you would lose warranty on the driveshafts and the wheel bearings and a very slight chance the trans. It all matters if the dealer is out to get you on technicalities or not. We know Eibach makes springs for it, and I can guarantee you, they checked out drive shaft angles and shaft lengthening issues before they offered it. Not much risk at all I would bet. You would need front camber bolts for sure, and I think it is only available for AWD versions, that I think you have since you are in big time snow country.
 

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His Dyno is interesting. I wonder if this is a turbo model? Boost, waste gate, and throttle position would be important to see here. I don't think the ecu is limiting tq, It appears the car is suffering from Throttle Body flutter. TB flutter looks exactly like that, and the cause can be something as easy as boost leak, or as pita as a signal interference between pedal position and throttle position.
I talked to him about it, it is a turbo. It is Hyundai's tune pulling back, they tuned it and hp is now way up as it should be with those parts.
 

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As for the lift, technically, you would lose warranty on the driveshafts and the wheel bearings and a very slight chance the trans. It all matters if the dealer is out to get you on technicalities or not. We know Eibach makes springs for it, and I can guarantee you, they checked out drive shaft angles and shaft lengthening issues before they offered it. Not much risk at all I would bet. You would need front camber bolts for sure, and I think it is only available for AWD versions, that I think you have since you are in big time snow country.
yep i have the awd, but unless something happens to it, i'm keeping it mint as long as possible. our garage apprentice would even do the work for me, but like i sai, it's not worth the fight on the warranty right now if i did do it.
 

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Really the only thing you have to worry about is drive line warranty. You can put in suspension, and a rectangle K&N if you want more dirt in your engine/Intake tube. You can get a Pedal Box and piggyback tune box (IE DTE tunning, DTUK, RaceChip) if too make sure you take them both off before a trip to the dealer. Rims tires, cat back exhaust.
Would like to do the DTUK , but not sure if the motor and drivetrain can handle it.(2019 Kona Ultimate 1.6T AWD}
 

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Would like to do the DTUK , but not sure if the motor and drivetrain can handle it.(2019 Kona Ultimate 1.6T AWD}

Yes it can, without question. 30hp and 40-50 tqe is still under the DCT trans spec for torque. With larger turbos the stock shortblock have people out there still running to this date with 300+hp in Veosters and Elantra's with manual trans and a new clutch. The is a 400 ft lbs clutch out there for the DCT, but no one has been able to hack the DCT computer to alter the clutch activation feather in algorithm.
 

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Yes it can, without question. 30hp and 40-50 tqe is still under the DCT trans spec for torque. With larger turbos the stock shortblock have people out there still running to this date with 300+hp in Veosters and Elantra's with manual trans and a new clutch. The is a 400 ft lbs clutch out there for the DCT, but no one has been able to hack the DCT computer to alter the clutch activation feather in algorithm.
Thanks for your input, I appreciateit!
 

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I myself for right now only care about the drivetrain warranty. Nothing else will be a big financial burden to fix, since I can do the work myself if I would void the warranty, IE the suspension. The car is too new and Hyundai doesn't have the best track record on engines, even though the 1.6T is one of Hyundai's better motors. Say if I had 15,000 miles on my Kona and lets say it is now a VW GTI. I would put a tune on it NOW. Because VW engines are well built and have a known long term track record. A stock GTI engine can take a stage 1 tune and even a stage 2 tune with almost no worries on the rods or busting a ring land. I don't care for the looks of VWs now a days, so they were off the table from my years of VW and Audi sport/tuner cars. Audi's are just too expensive for a late model choice. The Hyundai 1.6T, we don't have a long term highly tuned track record of robustness. Once mine gets older I will throw a tune on it, but that will be years from now.

It's not like the average Kona owner is a male 20-25 and looking to make a "Ricer" out of their Kona like we see more of on Veloster's. A lot of us are in our 40's-50 plus. Only a very few of us were building race cars and street cars when we were younger, and want to push that onto our Kona's now. I sure do!!! Most just want to drive it as is.

TRT, your comment on that Hyundai spent all the time and engineering money into making the Kona, you are right, they did a good job for the most part. But they had a very specific crowd they wanted to please, a broad one too. I would say age 25-60, sporty while being very comfortable and somewhat soft, that would satisfy the most people. Most here on this site fall into this slot. Like 1fastKona said , there are about 5 current users that are bumping into warranty areas from modifying. We lost about 2-3 or so others early on that tuned their car right away with piggybacks and meth injection and they just quit coming back. TRT as far as Aussy tuned suspension, a well known enginnering roadmap that Hyundai used in it's advertising if you were watching Youtube reviewers that had access to Hyundai engineers. The suspension tuning was for your rough roads and they tried to make it as smooth as they could with different shock valving, spring rates and maybe bushings, while trying to keep the Kona's handling in a set window.

Altering your suspension away from Hyundai's design is not dangerous in any way. If you buy lowering springs that the spring engineers designed and tested on the street and track, IE Eibach and Storm, for the Kona. Just throwing on ANY non specific coil overs would be something to shy away from unless you have spring rates and valving rates ect. That's why you can buy a set of Eibach springs and bring them to shop to have them swap out the OEM's and have 110% confidence smart Eibach enginners made the Kona far safer to drive then the Hyundai engineers. Emergency handling far better then stock, braking multiple times better then Hyundai engineered in. I know that because I hated the way my Kona braked, I worked with my service manager acquaintance and I brought it up through Hyundai to a large Firewall of "we don't care about the braking" as is, it is fine for 99% who drive it. You sport drive it hard and my opinion is the Kona is a semi-daangerous car with how softly sprung it was in a panic braking scenario or full on sport braking. Bad nose dive and rear lift. My first tier of suspension changeover to the Eibach's helped braking 60-70% and other suspension modes have added another 20%. The braking is fantastic now with OEM pads and rotors. I mean really good, even in high speed sport driving. You can change over any car with simple different intend of use parts and safely increase every aspect of a cars design ride and handling as long as you use top tier name brand parts that have been designed to work with your car.
What else did u do to the suspension to get that extra 20%
 

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I myself for right now only care about the drivetrain warranty. Nothing else will be a big financial burden to fix, since I can do the work myself if I would void the warranty, IE the suspension. The car is too new and Hyundai doesn't have the best track record on engines, even though the 1.6T is one of Hyundai's better motors. Say if I had 15,000 miles on my Kona and lets say it is now a VW GTI. I would put a tune on it NOW. Because VW engines are well built and have a known long term track record. A stock GTI engine can take a stage 1 tune and even a stage 2 tune with almost no worries on the rods or busting a ring land. I don't care for the looks of VWs now a days, so they were off the table from my years of VW and Audi sport/tuner cars. Audi's are just too expensive for a late model choice. The Hyundai 1.6T, we don't have a long term highly tuned track record of robustness. Once mine gets older I will throw a tune on it, but that will be years from now.

It's not like the average Kona owner is a male 20-25 and looking to make a "Ricer" out of their Kona like we see more of on Veloster's. A lot of us are in our 40's-50 plus. Only a very few of us were building race cars and street cars when we were younger, and want to push that onto our Kona's now. I sure do!!! Most just want to drive it as is.

TRT, your comment on that Hyundai spent all the time and engineering money into making the Kona, you are right, they did a good job for the most part. But they had a very specific crowd they wanted to please, a broad one too. I would say age 25-60, sporty while being very comfortable and somewhat soft, that would satisfy the most people. Most here on this site fall into this slot. Like 1fastKona said , there are about 5 current users that are bumping into warranty areas from modifying. We lost about 2-3 or so others early on that tuned their car right away with piggybacks and meth injection and they just quit coming back. TRT as far as Aussy tuned suspension, a well known enginnering roadmap that Hyundai used in it's advertising if you were watching Youtube reviewers that had access to Hyundai engineers. The suspension tuning was for your rough roads and they tried to make it as smooth as they could with different shock valving, spring rates and maybe bushings, while trying to keep the Kona's handling in a set window.

Altering your suspension away from Hyundai's design is not dangerous in any way. If you buy lowering springs that the spring engineers designed and tested on the street and track, IE Eibach and Storm, for the Kona. Just throwing on ANY non specific coil overs would be something to shy away from unless you have spring rates and valving rates ect. That's why you can buy a set of Eibach springs and bring them to shop to have them swap out the OEM's and have 110% confidence smart Eibach enginners made the Kona far safer to drive then the Hyundai engineers. Emergency handling far better then stock, braking multiple times better then Hyundai engineered in. I know that because I hated the way my Kona braked, I worked with my service manager acquaintance and I brought it up through Hyundai to a large Firewall of "we don't care about the braking" as is, it is fine for 99% who drive it. You sport drive it hard and my opinion is the Kona is a semi-daangerous car with how softly sprung it was in a panic braking scenario or full on sport braking. Bad nose dive and rear lift. My first tier of suspension changeover to the Eibach's helped braking 60-70% and other suspension modes have added another 20%. The braking is fantastic now with OEM pads and rotors. I mean really good, even in high speed sport driving. You can change over any car with simple different intend of use parts and safely increase every aspect of a cars design ride and handling as long as you use top tier name brand parts that have been designed to work with your car.
 
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