I would just love to do a test on one of these cars. I would like see if changing to a high performance oil that is an EXPENSIVE oil. It is a shot in the dark, but I have yet to see anyone try a specialty oil and see if cleaning the ring lands on the pistons would help. The key ingredient is part of the base oil, it is called Ester, a high end oil additive that has very high cleaning properties. This oil also has very low NOACK of 6 vs 9 to 14 of other oils. That is how fast the oil evaporates, mostly at high temps. There are just too many 2.0 liter engines that burn oil, even with low miles.
My first thought is a bad PVC valve, then it goes to carboned up piston rings/ring lands, or the rings did not break-in the engines cylinder walls. Modern day engines use weak expanding piston rings, this aids to increase mileage by a small margin. It also can cause oil burning and fuel dilution or the oil. Fuel dilution is more found in turbo cars vs non-turbo cars since the turbo is pushing the fuel air mixture passed the piston rings and into the oil sump.
I suggest this test to someone who has money and is willing to do a Hail Mary test to see if running this oil would clean the rings /ring lands to see if THAT could be the issue. This test is for someone who can change their own oil or have a friend or family member or shop they trust to change the oil correctly. As part of the test you must be a bit aggressive on acceleration then you normally are. After you change the oil and filter you should drive it normally for 50 miles to let the Ester do some cleaning or softening up the carbon and then increase to more agressive driving to create more heat and put pressure on the piston rings. There is a slight chance that your car did not break in correctly because you were to easy on it. You need to break-in the rings to the cylinder wall and driving it aggressively is how you break-in a engine. Many people have a saying "drive it like you stole it". I always say "load the piston rings".
Here is the Redline 5w-30 even though your car might be a suggested 5w-20 car. The 5w-20 oil from this manufacture NOACK is 9 vs the 6 of the 5w-30. Not saying this is a big deal, I just want the best case scenario in the least oil getting "flashed off".
NON-TURBO car, "Kona SEL 2.0 liter) car, buy 6 Qts. Your car takes about 4.5 Qts so you have some more to add if needed. If you need to add more go to walmart and buy Mobil 1 5w-30 if you are burning it up past your extra 1.5 Qts of Redline oil. You can buy it from the manufactures site I posted, as most places don't give much of a price break, and other places don't deliver it fast enough.
Most popular oil for modern road cars and light trucks, as specified for most late-model BMW, General Motors, and Nissan vehicles
www.redlineoil.com
TURBO car, "Kona 1.6T" use this oil Buy 6 qts. Your car takes about 4.5 Qts so you have some more to add if needed. If you need to add more go to walmart and buy Mobil 1 5w-30 if you are burning it up past your extra 1.5 Qts of Redline oil. . You can buy it from the manufactures site I posted, as most places don't give much of a price break, and other places don't deliver it fast enough.
Euro-Series 5W30 Motor Oil
www.redlineoil.com
Run this oil for 5,000 miles. Then see if you have reduced oil consumption. I does take some time for the Ester to clean, but if my hunch is right you should see a reduction in oil consumption. I suggest then to use Mobil 1 5w-30 after to a max of 7,000 miles NON -Turbo and Turbo car max 5,000 miles.
Again this is a Hail Mary test. I am running their oil that I posted for a turbo car and my 1.6T fuel dilution problem is gone and I think it was my piston rings where pinched with hard carbon and the Ester cleaned the rings that allowed them to conform to the cylinder walls, and in my case sealed fuel from reaching the oil sump. That is just a hypothesis, but my problem is gone, so I am going with that.
