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Discussion Starter #1
How often do you change your oil in 1.6T?
The maintenance log I have for 1.6T says replace or change at 3000 if usage is severe. But the normal replace is at 6000.
Should I replace at 3000? I have 2900 right now. They are not hard miles. Do I have to have certified mechanic inspect it for warranty sake?
 

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No don't change it until the 5500-6000 mark, let it break in first. However check with your dealer first they can advise you best. If you desire a fully synthetic then just ask them to upgrade the oil change. I don't know what service plan you have but normally if you have the Platinum they will do so for free or a small charge. Check with them.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I’ve been reading some of the other information about the Warrantee and things that might void your warranty and such. I have very little trust in most car dealerships and I figure even if I did everything, crossed every I , Dotted every T… They would find a way to get out of honoring a warranty. I’ve had it happen with Chrysler/jeep. Warrantee and things that might void your warranty and such. I have very little trust in most car dealerships and I figure even if I did everything, crossed every I , dotted every t… They would find a way to get out of honoring a warranty. I’ve had it happen with Chrysler/jeep
 

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Well, Chrysler/Plymouth/Jeep hasn't been know for their uprightness when it comes to validating warranties, especially with major problems. All you have to do is look at the NHSTA recall lists on them. Most of the time people have had to threaten them with class action suits to get action. That's exactly why I don't deal with them or GMC.

I think you'll have a better customer service experience with Hyundai. I know I have so far and I've had allot of expensive German and Japanese sports cars over my life. Hyundai bears up pretty well in comparison. They don't say they have the best US warrant in the business for nothing. I see allot of older Hyundai's still on the road today, so that says something about longevity.
 

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I just got my Kona, but they told me I should have the oil changed at 3000 miles, at least the first time since it came with conventional oil. We talked about upgrading to synthetic then. I haven't looked to see what the recommended interval is but I did add a service package for three years with the dealer so I figure I might as well take advantage of it. I do have the 2.0l engine, though, not the 1.6T.
 

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Should be around 5000 no matter what synthetic oil. Filter is one of the most important factors as a reason for the change at these intervals.
 

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First off any good engine builder changes his oil out by at least the first 100 miles if not earlier. Many dump after the first 30 minutes of running. Have you ever looked at your oil in your lawn mower after the first mowing? Full of metal glitter, granted there is no oil filter. But that glitter has hundreds of thousands of of particulates of metal that get past ESPECIALLY the Hyundai filter that is known to be a swiss cheese filter to stop the "Hyundai Tick of Death" issue they have on some of their motors. I got rid of that junk filter at 75 miles on my car and fitted it with a Fram Ultra that filters 99% of the particulates at 20 micron vs Hyundai that does 99% at 50 micron. BIG time difference in filtering. At the 75 mile dump I got most of the use of the high moly in the factory fill. Corvettes come factory filled with plain Mobil 1 Extended, no extra moly.



I put a fresh load of Mobil1 Extended to get some good group 4 PAO in there, and a 1 Qt of Redline 0w-40 to get some group 5 POE and some extra moly. That oil and filter will be dumped at 1,000 miles and I will be running Amsoil Signature Series oil so I can a get a nice robust quality oil with a nice add-pack for the turbo. I am not worried about warranty, because the only reason Amsoil Sig Series doesn't pass API is because it has more phosphorus then API specs because of the thinking of reducing less stress on pollution control parts at the cost of engine longevity. Amsoil did not want to compromise wear for the BS nutter pollution control cult. Euro SAPS oil specs that many think are way to go are no were near as good as US oil spec as far as wear. So don't think you are getting "better oil" by going with Euro oil, you are getting worse quality oil as far as wear goes.



Most of your wear will be in the first 500 mile break-in and who wants all the metal particulates sanding away at the parts because there is #1 a bad Hyundai swiss cheese filter with bad filtering performance numbers. and #2 a percentage of particulates will get passed the best filter and the highest percentage is always in the first 500 miles.


Most of you wont go to that extreme I know, but your first change should be sooner rather then later. Same with your trans and differentials fluids. I will be dumping all of those fluids at 5,000 miles. After that the DCT trans only holds about 2.5 Qts so I will dumping that every 25,000 miles and the rear diff will be every 15,000 miles since it appears to be like the Rav4 and has the AWD clutch packs material is abrasive to the roller bearings in the rear differential. My driving style is Extreme Plus, so having good clean oil is worth the cost. I will be changing out my engine oil at 4,000 miles because of short trip driving most of the time, and GDI turbo/winter driving, fuel contamination issues. Oil analysis will be the deciding factor here too. Good oil lets you get by with fuel dilution without wear. It's your car, so this is how I am doing it with mine, you do how you want to do it, but the manual in a lot of cases was written by an actuary and not a engine engineer or brake engineer.
 

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I took some time to read the oil section in the Kona owners manual and Hyundai has an option for use of 5w-40 in the 1.6 T. Which for hard use or high outside temps would be a smart move, especially when hard use and high outside temps are encountered together. It is good to see Hyundai is using their head and giving customers the option to use rough service oil with a turbo (as they should).



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Mainia.....I've got the lowly 2.0 and due to your posts I changed my oil at 990 miles....my first one was free so I got 5/20 semi synthetic....probably a trashy filter but I feel better. Next one will be a better quality filter and higher quality oil. Thanks. BTW, I'm from Int'l Falls originally.....wow.

Mark


I took some time to read the oil section in the Kona owners manual and Hyundai has an option for use of 5w-40 in the 1.6 T. Which for hard use or high outside temps would be a smart move, especially when hard use and high outside temps are encountered together. It is good to see Hyundai is using their head and giving customers the option to use rough service oil with a turbo (as they should).



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Mainia.....I've got the lowly 2.0 and due to your posts I changed my oil at 990 miles....my first one was free so I got 5/20 semi synthetic....probably a trashy filter but I feel better. Next one will be a better quality filter and higher quality oil. Thanks. BTW, I'm from Int'l Falls originally.....wow.

Mark

There is really nothing wrong with semi-synthetic oil. These days, convention oil is still great oil compared to oil 20 years ago. If you drive and do full throttle runs here and there the semi-syn oil that you are using is 100% fine. I myself would want to use 0w-30 here in Minnesota in winter or 5w-30 in states that don't see 25 to 30 below for the 2.0 liter Kona. You know all about 30 below coming from Int'l Falls. Add a turbo and use it at all aggressively or turn it off on a 90 deg day without raising the idle to 1,200 to 1,500 for 30 seconds to 2 mins, before shutting it down, then a full synthetic higher end oil is worth it.



A Fram Ultra is a high end great and affordable filter $9.65 at walmart. And really a good option for your semi-synthetic oil is Wallmart's full synthetic oil for $17.50


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Full-Synthetic-5W30-Motor-Oil-5-qt/17133942


Hyundai poo poos any oil filter other then theirs. I like Fram Ultras because they were sent back to the engineers at Fram 4 years ago to match or exceed flow and durability to the OEM Hyundai filter, so there is no question it is up to standards as far as the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act, and will not be an issue. Any question on the Fram Ultra filter Hyundai, call Fram's R&D dept.
 

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Add a turbo and use it at all aggressively or turn it off on a 90 deg day without raising the idle to 1,200 to 1,500 for 30 seconds to 2 mins, before shutting it down, then a full synthetic higher end oil is worth it. QUOTE]


By this I mean boutique oils like Amsoil Signature Series or Redline that are group 4 PAO and group 5 POE/Ester oils. Also add in Mobil1 Extended 5w-30 in has some group 4 and can handle some more heat and can be purchased at Walmat for $28.00 for 5Qt jug. That's what I am running now and I will be dumping at 1,000 miles. That same Mobil 1 Extended oil I use at work in our Ford Transit Connect that I do oil changes at 15,000 to 16,000 miles with a Fram Ultra and oil analysis comes out go for the oil. It is not a DI engine (direct injected engine) so we can get those miles on that oil, If it was a DI motor we would start out at dumping it at 10,000 miles and look at the fuel in the numbers and wear numbers to see if we could push the oil to the 15,000 number we safely get with a non-DI engine.
ALL the other oils sold at Walmart are group 3 oils with the exception of Pennzoil Platinum comes in at a group 3+ since they make it out of natural gas. That oil I would guess is a 10,000-12,000 mile max oil with an oil analysis to make sure.



https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups


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Should my oil level be slowly going down? I only have about 600 miles on my 2.0 engine, babied generally, and my oil level is down about a 1/4 inch from the full mark.
 

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Actually, with the GDI you'll see some fuel dilution in the oil so it should be going up a little. However, it's not unusual to see some reduction between 0-1000 miles. Make sure you give the engine time to cool down before checking it. Let the oil return to the pan, then check it again.

Blessings and Peace
 

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Made our first oil change at 3002 miles. Was easy access and no problems. Filter came off like a breeze with a strap wrench and for those who are looking for a cap/socket filter wrench, it utilize an 80 mm. I utilized the Indemsu Fully Synthetic Oil from Hyundai and the Hyundai OEM Filter. The filters are a premium filter with oil additives and very thick with a great seal. I also installed a new Fumoto Valve for quicker access.

Oil had a fuel smell to it due to some fuel dilution but not bad. It was a darker amber color and could have easily gone for another 3K miles.

From here on out, Hyundai will be doing all the oil changes as we have a Platinum 10 year Service plan.

Blessings and Peace
 

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Thanks for the replies! Makes me feel better that it is not a sign of problems to be using a tiny bit of oil. My Elantra GT never used a bit of oil, so I felt really good about buying this Kona with the same drivertain.
Maybe I'm a bit paranoid after owning a Subaru that used a quart of oil every thousand miles, even though it only had 20,000 miles on it when I traded it off.
JR Kona, I have a relative who is a PJ. Thanks for your service!
 

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Thank you it was an honor to serve the people of our country. My wife was a 20 year veteran also. We met and married 44 years ago in the military.

Blessings and Peace
 

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Actually, with the GDI you'll see some fuel dilution in the oil so it should be going up a little. However, it's not unusual to see some reduction between 0-1000 miles. Make sure you give the engine time to cool down before checking it. Let the oil return to the pan, then check it again.

Blessings and Peace



I was over 5% fuel dilution at 2,000 miles tested at Polaris Labs and not Blackstone, Blackstone is said to not have the most reliable fuel dilution figures. This was when it was late summer. I am going to hate to see what my 1,000 mark test is coming up in another 400 miles. Gee....I can't wait for winter:surprise:.



Every oil manufacture recommends dumping their oil at 5% fuel dilution. So that is too often to run Amsoil SS oil...$$$$$ if I have to dump it:surprise:.




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Ouch! That's why I changed it at 3K. It's just the nature of the beast.:wink::smile: I'm sure glad I opted for the extended 10 year bumper to bumper warranty.:grin:

Blessings and Peace
 
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