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New Kona N owner.

16K views 70 replies 15 participants last post by  ArtNouveau 
#1 ·
Any suggestions for mods. I'm looking to start off with some interior and exterior add ONS
Tire Wheel Cloud Sky Vehicle

before adding engine components
 
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#2 ·
I just got the same vehicle 2 days ago.It gets more looks then my 2020 stinger Gt I had about 8 months ago.I plan on getting cross drilled and vented rotors on the rear and probably a quality intake if one is available.The vehicle already is a great looking car--CUV or whatever folks classify it as.I actually like sitting higher and I can tell this is a very good performance machine and I plan on shooting some hi speed videos of its abilities soon.
 
#3 ·
Hey, may I ask what your fuel door says about grade requirement? Downloaded the 2022 Kona N manual, and couldn't find fuel grade needed. On the index, it said page '1-5', but there's no such thing. And later on section 2, it said to refer to the beginning, where there's nothing. Ha ha. Anyway, need to know if you can use regular fuel on this thing. It's for my wife, and she doesn't want to waste money on premium fuel, which is 80 cents per gallon more expensive here. And no, she's not going to get anywhere close to WOT probably ever. Ha ha. She wanted a Kona Limited or N-Line, but there are none available. Dealer sells me an upcoming red/black Kona N at MSRP ($36K+ with destination), so it's either that one, or waiting at least a month longer for one of those. I think I could sell the N for what I'll have on it (about 2.5 grand over MSRP) if she doesn't like it. She wants a small nimble SUV, so I think this one should be the ticket. I just bought a Santa Fe Calligraphy to tow my bike, and she says feels too big. She just doesn't want to pay for premium fuel to be at 1/4 throttle most of the time, and when it only gives 20/27 MPG. And my question is why so low when it's a lot lighter than my SF with the 2.5T with 280/311, which gives 22/28? Seems weird. Thanks gang.
 
#5 ·
My dealer just replied saying all Hyundais only require REGULAR. I hope that's correct, but haven't seen solid evidence of that. My SF Calligraphy with the 2.5T only requires regular (premium is not even recommended).

And did you have a chance to test-drive an N? Is it really stiff in normal mode, or firm but tolerable? Thx.
 
#6 ·
My dealer just replied saying all Hyundais only require REGULAR. I hope that's correct, but haven't seen solid evidence of that. My SF Calligraphy with the 2.5T only requires regular (premium is not even recommended).

And did you have a chance to test-drive an N? Is it really stiff in normal mode, or firm but tolerable? Thx.
I test drove one and selected all driving modes. I've owned many VW's and have modified all of them. One of the essential mods for me in the past has been a coilover suspension. Hence, I may be biased toward a stiffer suspension feel. However, the Kona N felt completely comfortable in all settings and I have zero issue with the ride quality. Felt smooth and comfortable around town, and tightened up when in N mode on the highway.
 
#7 ·
From my owners manual “your new vehicle is designed to preform optimally using unleaded fuel having an octane number ((R+M)/2) of 87 (research octane number 91) or higher
For improved vehicle performance, premium unleaded fuel with an octane number ((R+M)/2) of 91 (research octane number 95) or higher is recommended. (Do not use methanol blended fuels.)

Notice
Using unleaded gasoline that is lower than octane number ((R+M)/2) of 91 (research octane number 95) could result in reduced engine power and increased fuel consumption”

So running regular gas is fine for her needs but I’d calculate if premium is worth it fuel economy wise (most likely not)
 
#11 ·
Ooooh, those are the 2 blue buttons on the steering wheel. NICE! But you can change everything, right? You can put one with everything dialed down to the lowest, like suspension, exhaust noise, steering effort, etc., correct? And you could put the 2nd on the other extreme, like everything dialed up to the max? And you can just invoke either one by pressing the button, no? Or what did you mean my 'N mode'? Hopefully not something that prevents you from dialing down things to the minimum, which is what my wife would want, especially the suspension and exhaust valves. So no ventilated seats then? Thank you very much for your great help. Oh, and how noisy is it for the highway? Just curious if it's bearable, or better left in the garage for trips, even short ones. Thank you.
 
#12 ·
There’s normal n mode which is full sport plus everything then there’s 2 n customs. The way I have mine set is n custom 1 as sport plus everything but suspension on normal and n custom 2 as sport plus everything except normal on the exhaust. There’s also the 3 normal driving modes eco, normal, and sport (starts automatically in normal). Even with exhaust valve open it’s pretty quiet so highway trips would be just fine. No ventilated seats in the NA market
 
#13 ·
Thank you. Glad you can dial things back to normal in the N custom modes, so perfect. I'd probably do exactly what you did with custom 1, but drive it with the paddles all the time (the way I like it), since at least on my ex-Porsche PDK, sport+ meant redline shifts in auto mode, which is nuts on the streets. Also glad that it's not that bad on the highway. Are the stated EPA ratings more or less what you guys get? One thing I won't like is the range if that's the case. The little car only has like 13.2 gal, right? That's nothing. Just a little more range than my R1250R bike. So constant fueling, but maybe you need to get out anyway, no? Ha ha. On custom 2 I'd dial everything sport plus down to sport, with both suspension and exhaust in normal, so tranny could be used in auto, for the wife. The only thing I have no idea how it behaves in different modes is the e-diff, so will have to try that out. But probably leave it in the least aggressive mode everywhere, except in canyon roads, so the clutch plates don't wear out prematurely, due to constant engagement when you don't need them. The only thing I wish this car had from the G are the big Brembo brakes, but they should be fine. Hopefully it'll get here in a week :). Oh, and sad about the ventilated seats, especially when available elsewhere, but it is what it is.
 
#14 ·
I get slightly better fuel economy then stated. On my commute on the highway I set cruise at 110kmh (68mph~) and it says 7.2L/100km (32mpg~) in normal mode and can’t really say about around town since I drive in N mode. My average km/100km is 10.7L/100km (22mpg) and estimated range 450km (279miles). The auto in N mode won’t redline unless floored it seems like it stays 2 gears lower then if you were in normal mode (but who drives in N mode not using the paddles). Hopefully you guys love it! I’m just reaching 8k km on mine and oh boy has it been a blast
 
#16 ·
When it was initially? And in which city/state do you live in? Mine is supposed to arrive May 31 in El Paso, TX, but based on your input, it might get delayed too. Dealer says it's normal to get delayed like 5 days, so that's probably the earliest it'll show up, but we'll see. I also don't see any other color than freaking red. Ha ha. My wife wanted it white, but red doesn't look bad. Just hope it doesn't show everything, and that clear-coat is as thick as other colors.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I bet they're (or were) on the same boat, and are probably at port right now, about to leave on a train, is my guess. Dealer can track them, but you need to ask for specifics. Mine was supposed to arrive the 31st, but if yours will arrive 6/7, I bet mine later than that. I think the port Hyundai uses for the mid to eastern states is NC, which is much closer to you. We'll see. Will ask my dealer to track mine on Tuesday, which is the day it was supposed to arrive. Good luck. By the way, Hyundai should provide shipping info on its window stickers, like many other manufacturers, so customers could track their own cars. Oh well.

EDIT: Does anybody know if the oil drain plug on the N is 14mm x 1.5, like most other Hyundais? Need to confirm the same thing for my new 2.5T Santa Fe Calligraphy, to order 2. Thank you.
 
#19 ·
As a general rule of thumb….if the car has a turbocharger it’s going to perform best with premium. Technology has improved to the point that most cars can run on regular, and I believe the Kona N can, but you’re going to get the best performance with premium. I had a GTI for years that was the same, it could run on regular but did best with premium. I always put premium in it because it felt like it was running at maybe 85% on regular.
 
#20 ·
I heard that the N cars basically don't get the full HP that Hyundai states unless you run Super/Premium gas. If you don't plan to run it at the track you can get by with regular gas.

Regardless of the gas used I recommend using Chevron Techron Fule cleaner additive to help reduce some carbon build up with every oil change at minimum. I usually add one every 4th fill up on my cars that have direct injection engines. It cost anywhere from $5-8 for a 12 oz bottle.
 
#25 ·
Yeah, you'd only notice at WOT (if at all), and the difference would be pretty subtle, since we're talking only 15 to 20 HP less. And probably about the same TQ losses under full boost. Not worth throwing money away with premium when you wouldn't even take advantage of it, which is hard to justify with current gas prices anyway. Ha ha. Just fueled up the SF, and it was $4.90, while premium is $5.50 here. And the KN is already pretty bad with fuel for such a little car, at 20/27 (my larger SF does 22/28).
 
#28 ·
I’m about 3/4s of a way through my first tank of gas and am averaging about 20…but the car is still being broken in and it’s only been driven in or around the city so far so I’m honestly not even disappointed. My GTI would routinely turn in 16 or 17 in traffic…that car is actually an exercise in extremes when it comes to fuel economy. In my experience it’s much worse than rated in the city but much better than rated on the highway. I’d get 24-38 on the highway when I babied it no problem. Over all my years of ownership it averaged right around 24 overall.

I’m taking the Kona N on a road trip this weekend that’ll be mostly highway and suburban roads. Im probably going to mainly have it in Eco mode since I’ve still got about 400 break in miles to go. Will definitely let you all know how it does. I definitely agree with the sentiment that it isn’t great on gas for such a small car, but it’s the price you have to pay for performance, and it’s still better than a lot of stuff that can hang with it.
 
#29 ·
I’m about 3/4s of a way through my first tank of gas and am averaging about 20…but the car is still being broken in and it’s only been driven in or around the city so far so I’m honestly not even disappointed. My GTI would routinely turn in 16 or 17 in traffic…that car is actually an exercise in extremes when it comes to fuel economy. In my experience it’s much worse than rated in the city but much better than rated on the highway. I’d get 24-38 on the highway when I babied it no problem. Over all my years of ownership it averaged right around 24 overall.

I’m taking the Kona N on a road trip this weekend that’ll be mostly highway and suburban roads. Im probably going to mainly have it in Eco mode since I’ve still got about 400 break in miles to go. Will definitely let you all know how it does. I definitely agree with the sentiment that it isn’t great on gas for such a small car, but it’s the price you have to pay for performance, and it’s still better than a lot of stuff that can hang with it.
I was getting 12-14 mpg initially…. Now I’m around 16 mpg. My best was 27 mpg with mostly highway miles with eco mode and cruise control on.
 
#35 ·
Thank you Jim. Hey, I'm curious about 3 things: First, the 'backfire'/crackling/farting noises (which I do NOT like) are only done with engine in sport+ (or full N) mode, correct? Second, I really like the aggressive throttle-blip rev-matching I've heard on some Kona N videos, and wonder if it always makes that, or when you put the transmission mode on sport+. Hopefully it does it all the time, so I can just choose the best transmission mode that doesn't up-shift to almost idle speed right away, nor holds the up-shifts too long, just wasting gas. I really like sport mode on the 2022 Santa Fe Calligraphy, where it upshifts around 2,600 rpm when driving sedately, and downshifts when falling right below 2K rpm when coasting, which is perfect for me (and doesn't lug the engine at all), since the engine is always ready to respond if needed. And also downshifts readily when you need to pass, etc. It also rev-matches nicely, but obviously you can't hear crap. Ha ha. And finally, how quiet is the exhaust inside when at the lowest level? You're the 2nd person that says the highest setting is too loud, so it must be loud. Ha ha. It's possible the crackling is driven by the highest exhaust mode, but I think it's probably the highest engine mode, but let me know. And sorry for the questions, but my stupid Kona keeps getting delayed, so want to learn as much as possible before it arrives. Ha ha. Thank you.
 
#36 · (Edited)
The exhaust note is based on the mode you have selected. You can create a custom mode where you get less pops but still keep the other performance added features like the stiffer suspension and better gearing on the transmission.

The reason the car is popping like it does is due to the fact that the exhaust is opened up more in Sport and Sport+ mode. Driving the car in Eco will still get you a pop every now and than but you really need to push the car hard to make it happen. I think I heard it once in Eco mode. I know in normal I hear it every now and than but not like I do in Sport or N modes.

What I like with this car is each mode really changes the car up from suspension, to gearing of transmission, to exhaust tune, etc.. We even get the ability to customize the car as we see fit with two custom settings.

What the N models offer is video game like setting where we can adjust the car with a few different button pushes. Heck, we even have a boost button from NGS. All of these ,makes me feel like the N models are cars designed to be driven like cars in Gran Turismo. 😀 And I'm loving this car, I mean CUV.
 
#37 ·
No, the popping is when extra fuel is added when closing the throttle; it's a mapping thing. I was asking which setting causes that, if engine or exhaust. I assume engine, since as I mentioned, it's a mapping change. My ex-Porsche never did that in normal mode, but unfortunately, it added popping with both sport and sport+ modes, when it should have been only the latter IMO. So I had to live with those childish noises all the time (ha ha), since the car was boring as heck to drive in regular mode. The sport exhaust (only 2 modes) augmented the popping noises, obviously, but the pops were still there when closed. When it was in regular mode and loud exhaust, exhaust was loud, but zero pops. I assume something like that is the case with the N, except it has TWO separate engine and transmission modes, instead of being combined in the Porsche (and most other vehicles). So which one causes the popping?
 
#38 ·
I believe you are correct, as is Racing Red. You will only get pops and bangs in sport+/full N mode. In its second most aggressive setting the exhaust still sounds mean but does away with the burbles. I personally like to leave it in that setting, but if it’s still more than you’re into you can go to the softest setting…but with a car like this that sounds great I think it’s best to enjoy it. Stuff that sounds this good doesn’t really exist anymore, especially in this price range. I can’t tell you what’s behind the wizardry though. I’ve asked my cousin who’s a Hyundai tech and he said he’d try to figure it out. I personally find it hard to believe sometimes, the **** thing just doesn’t sound like a 4 popper.

As far as the aggressive rev match downshifting goes, you can go into your N mode settings (which controls your custom mode) and activate N power shift, which basically accentuates the transmission action and gives you the most aggressive feeling shifts it can. There’s also a feature in the same menu called track sense shift, which will basically learn from the road and your driving to keep you in the power band at all times.

I don’t really have a need for this stuff during my commute, but I plan to explore it more on backroads once the car is broken in. Even with the transmission in its middle setting the car is very reluctant to upshift and very eager to downshift. As soon as you start braking it starts downshifting. It’s a slick set up and makes the DSG in my GTI seem like a 4 speed torque converter…
 
#39 ·
Thank you for that explanation. So it seems like the exhaust mode (and not the engine mode) is the one that adds the crackles and pops. And very glad to hear it's only in the highest setting, and that the highest setting is too loud anyway, so I'll always have it in the middle mode as well :). So what does the engine mode do? Just the throttle mapping then? And on the transmission mode, I don't want it almost redlining to up-shift, or shifting super aggressively, adding unnecessary wear and tear. I just like that the throttle-blip downshifts are aggressive, but guess will play with that when I get the car. I plan to downshift manually (with the paddles) when coasting to a traffic light, etc., just like I do with the SF, not only for the break-in now, but to keep the battery charged as well. And with the KN, to hear it. Ha ha. I want the equivalent of sport mode on my SF, which I assume it'll be the middle setting, so that's what I'll try right off the bat.

I will have my N mode 1 (is that the left or right button? And which one is full N, since there are only 2 buttons???) with the eDIFF, ESC, and Suspension at their mildest settings, as I don't plan to do any tracking with the car, or anything like that. Might play with the middle setting of the eDIFF in a mountain road, but only if alone, since the wife can't take anything more than about 0.6Gs anyway. Exhaust in the middle, and play with steering, engine, and transmission, to see what they do. But I suspect I'll like them in the middle (sport) setting as well, but we'll see. Will search for the owner's manual online, to start reading it, especially that section. Thank you again for all the great comments.
 
#43 ·
Yeah, I found the manual online yesterday, and read all of that past midnight. Ha ha. So the crackling/popping is activated with exhaust in sport+ mode. Apparently there's an ECO mode for engine, tranny, and exhaust that you cannot choose from the custom settings, but the 'normal' mode on all 3 should be fine for me. Seems like I'll probably choose sport on everything, except eDIFF, suspension, and ESC in normal mode. Thank you guys. Waiting for news where the stupid car is now. Ha ha. It has supposedly been in Albuquerque for a week, which sounds fishy, but who knows.
 
#46 ·
Manual says this for snow mode:

SNOW mode offers special traction tuning for snow optimizing available traction in adverse conditions. Snow mode adjusts left and right wheel slip control, engine torque and shift patterns according to available traction levels


Pg. 265
 
#47 ·
I also liked the many ways you can program the 2 'N' buttons on the steering wheel. And that you can invoke N mode by holding the console mode knob to either the right or left side stop for a second. So will probably program the left one as custom 1, and the right one as the drive mode. If my wife needs a custom mode too, I'd do the right one as custom 2. No sense in doing N+Custom 1 on mine since I think N would be first, right? If N was second, then I'd do mine as N+custom 1. Have to play with that, since manual wasn't specific enough. I also liked being able to program creep or no creep on a custom mode. I'll do no creep. Ha ha.
 
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