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Hi guys

I'm waiting for the delivery of my Kona 1.6T. The dealership offered me an option to buy a Webasto heating kit for the car. It costs a ton of money, so I'm wondering if it's worth it in this particular car. The main question therefore is- how fast is the Kona warming up?

I know it can be hard to measure, but maybe someone can measure the time to warm up cold engine from some given ambient temperature to full-operating temps on idle? That would let me to compare the numbers with my current car (Subaru Impreza) and help me to decide whether I need the heater or not.

The reason I ask is because it takes pretty long time to warm-up Subaru enough to de-ice the windows during cold days, so I hope with a smaller engine (not only the displacement but also physical size) that Kona has it should take less time. Here in Poland we occasionaly get winters with temps below 0*F, so it matters :)

Thanks for any thoughts and input!
 

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Hi guys

I'm waiting for the delivery of my Kona 1.6T. The dealership offered me an option to buy a Webasto heating kit for the car. It costs a ton of money, so I'm wondering if it's worth it in this particular car. The main question therefore is- how fast is the Kona warming up?

I know it can be hard to measure, but maybe someone can measure the time to warm up cold engine from some given ambient temperature to full-operating temps on idle? That would let me to compare the numbers with my current car (Subaru Impreza) and help me to decide whether I need the heater or not.

The reason I ask is because it takes pretty long time to warm-up Subaru enough to de-ice the windows during cold days, so I hope with a smaller engine (not only the displacement but also physical size) that Kona has it should take less time. Here in Poland we occasionaly get winters with temps below 0*F, so it matters :)

Thanks for any thoughts and input!



I live in Minnesota, I went with the car starter and it works great. $450 installed. It works at home and from inside a 60,000 sq ft building through 4 walls.



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Ill have frost in the next couple of days so I'll see how quick the windshield defrosts. The freeze we had the other week seemed fine it was only a few minutes
 

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Engine Block Heater Better Choice

Engine heaters are worth their money as long as you understand they work in heating the oil or coolant within the engine block. They are used to a keep oil more viscus and easier to pass thru the pump on start up and coolant to warm up faster for cabin heating. Most of the wear and tear on an engine is occurs during the start up phase. When the oil sits in the sump during longer overnight periods during colder in-climate weather the oils viscosity changes and it's much harder for the pump to pickup enough oil to lubricate the upper engine parts. A simple plug in engine block heater will suffice never the less. Also a properly maintained and serviced coolant system will provide protection somewhere around -35-40 below. Another point is the Kona 1.6T Turbo is oil and water cooled. So it will warm up more quickly then it's naturally aspirated counter part.

The Webasto coolant heater is simply overkill IMHO. In Siberia, Alaska, or in a diesel application maybe I believe the installation of a good quality electric plug-in engine block heater for either oil or coolant, will certainly be as effective and considerably less expensive IMHO.

Keep in mind, it's not good to let any engine sit at idle for very long after startup. 2-3 minute is ample time for the up to pick up the appropriate amount of oil and distribute it to the heads. In colder sub zero weather double it.

Also consider driving slowly until the engine water temp in the Kona has raised beyond the it's first gauge mark. However, keeping in mind most people start up their vehicles in cold weather for personal warmth and not consideration for the engine and it's internal workings.:smile:

Blessings and Peace
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Remote start is not an option since in our country it's prohibited to have an engine running without the driver inside. The electrical heater is also not an option since I live in the city and simply don't have any way to plug in the car. It has to be "self-propelled" :)

As for the idling I know it's not the most healthy way of car usage, but when your windshield is covered with ice and snow you don't have much choice other than let it idle and wait, while you remove the snow from the windows. It doesn't happen that often here, I'd say something like 10-20 days a year, but still it's frustrating when you're late to work and wait for the ice to melt.

When it comes to the technical stuff I'm pretty good in engine mechanics since some time ago I was making few stroker engines build-ups. So I know a bit about oil viscosity and other stuff. That's one of the reasons why the webasto is so tempting to me, yet aside from the cost factor, as it's not a factory option I'm a bit concerned about the way they would install it- so far my experience with mechanics were rather bad and I prefer to do the work on the car myself or leave the factory set-up.

Yoinkerman, it would be fantastic if you could just check one day how fast the temp goes from ambient (just note what the ambient was) to operating temp- we could extrapolate it to predict how long will it take to warm up from given winter temperature.
 

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I thought about that also. What you need is a propane engine block heater or a lithium power pack with inverter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYJVFN...t for Outdoors Camping CPAP Fishing Emergency

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LP6500-12V...ith-6-500-BTU-Output-for-Hilton-/230721185920

Hilton Cordless Engine Heaters - Hilton industries, Llc

You can also use a pad heater with a lithium power pack inverter.

https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/...desktop-hsa-3psl&store_ref=HSA_ACIMHEUO2PEYP6

More then one way to skin a cat!

Anyway this way you could use the engine block heater and still be less expensive. Keep in mind most notable information states no more than 30 seconds - 1 minute for warm up for a fuel injected motor. At 49 degrees F & 0% humidity the Kona temp gauge will be at the first notch on the water temp gauge in approximately 1 minute and 35 seconds. Heat generated from the heater coil to the heater is about the same.

Blessings and Peace
 

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My lifetime of putting in a few oem engine block heaters, and really never using them in NJ has convinced me not to do it again. Alaska, yes, some really cold northern states might need it. Will add one point, do not install one if you do not know how the air is removed from the engine block when drained ! Subaru requires a vacuum setup to suck the air out of the upper manifold ! It will not push the air out running ! ( don't ask !) Do not know about hyundia's but guessing the newer engines could be same issue. Then the question of what kind of anti freeze the hyundia uses ? Subaru has their own special mix at $40 a gallon ! It is rated ten years use. OEM heaters keep the engine about 60-100 f range, so save only a few minutes of time running. My 2 cents, unless 20f or lower most of the time, forget it.
 

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My lifetime of putting in a few oem engine block heaters, and really never using them in NJ has convinced me not to do it again. Alaska, yes, some really cold northern states might need it. Will add one point, do not install one if you do not know how the air is removed from the engine block when drained ! Subaru requires a vacuum setup to suck the air out of the upper manifold ! It will not push the air out running ! ( don't ask !) Do not know about hyundia's but guessing the newer engines could be same issue. Then the question of what kind of anti freeze the hyundia uses ? Subaru has their own special mix at $40 a gallon ! It is rated ten years use. OEM heaters keep the engine about 60-100 f range, so save only a few minutes of time running. My 2 cents, unless 20f or lower most of the time, forget it.
Good point.. with these modern engines using these low viscosity oils that flow in extreme cold... you shouldn’t need an engine heater Unless it’s extreme cold..
 

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Ditto!!

Blessings and Peace
 

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The best oil would be Redline oil because it is a group 5 Ester based oil that has a pour point at at -76F or -60C. Far better then a Motul 8100 X-Max that is at a -49F or -45C.


But the poster wants something "pre heated" and a car starter is banned in his country. Is it because of being a "nanny state" socialist country or because of high theft? The latter which is no concern with modern car starter technology.



I use de-icer spray here in Minnesota. I park outside even though I have a large heated and air cond. garage. There are many times I have an ice/frost layer that I de-ice with this spray. Also, I use the Splash Brand since it is all around here because the corporate office is 20 miles away. Just a note, a couple years ago I was having car sprayer nozzle freeze-ups and called their company since they have mass distribution of their low temp window wash spray fluid too. He said Obama banned/limited us use of the proper percentage of methanol needed to stop freezing of nozzles in below zero scenarios. (There is OUR socialism king) and their hands are tied with stupid regulations. He said they are telling people to use the spray and add some to the fluid since it was not regulated (YET) and you could then get enough Methanol to stop freezing up nozzles. When Trump came into office he pulled back those stupid laws and we got back a working methanol percentage. The 1 gallon bottles that Obama "dictated" to us, had -25 and what we had before Obama's last years and before his "rein" of rules and laws, that were and are now back to working -35 on the jug. I still use the added spray when we see -20 since the posted figures on the jug are a bit optimistic, but at least you don't have to add the expensive spray methanol all the time NOW.



https://www.wisebread.com/the-5-best-windshield-de-icers




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I'm debating having a block heater added to my Kona. We do have some really cold winter days where I live and it was a nice feature on my last car that I used regularly.

As far as warm up time goes, a mechanic on YouTube insists that modern cars don't need much time to do that. His rule is that once you RPM gauge drops below 1000 you should be able to drive without any risk. Newer cars all use very low viscosity oil so I see his point. On the other hand, he lives in Tuscon, so I don't know if I really trust him with real cold weather situations, lol.
 

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That's always a factor also.:grin:

Blessings and Peace
 

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I live in Minnesota, I went with the car starter and it works great. $450 installed. It works at home and from inside a 60,000 sq ft building through 4 walls.



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Which brand/model of remote starter did you get? Also, was there any issues with installing the remote starter and keyless entry?
 

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Which brand/model of remote starter did you get? Also, was there any issues with installing the remote starter and keyless entry?

I think Compustar is the best brand out there. I have this model remote as it's main remote (features), and the second remote is a lesser featured.



https://www.compustar.com/remotes/prime-t9/


https://www.compustar.com/remotes/pro-g15-1-way/


I had it installed in my 2013 Elantra for 2 years and when I traded in my Elantra my installer pulled the brain and the antenna for free , it took 5 mins. He just leaves the wiring because it is a wash for labor to try to save the wiring, vs a new wiring kit. Since it is a push button start, you have to a module that makes it work with that. It works fine and the same with the keyless entry. The big problem is now you have 2 remotes in your pocket. That's a big negative vs with my Elantra I could just use the Compustar remote only. I must also add the T9 remote lets me enable the seat heaters remotely by hitting the trunk button, each time for first high, then med, then low, and next is off. Also the Compustar computer brain has a lifetime warranty, and is the same one on the low end model vs the high end model. The remotes determine the options along with dip switches on the brain.

I first off had the model kit that had 2 of the second remotes posted above, but the car remote went off in my pocket and started my car a couple of times within a week so my reseller guy was cool and swapped me up to the T9 for more$$ that had side buttons and the problem was gone. Needless to say, I called the manufacture to question why have such a softly sprung button that is flush that can start the car so easily. When clearly, OEM starters have their button recessed more and have a harder sprung button tension to enable the starter. It feel on deaf ears of course.

I may try their small 2 way starter remote that will leave me without the seat heater option, but at least I will have less bulk in my pocket. I can still use the more advanced larger remote at home in the mornings to use the seat heater. Also the manual advises not to use the high seat setting on a long idling car since the alternator is not putting out the needed added voltage. A short 5 minute use would not hurt but, my idle time is set for 15 mins.



https://www.compustar.com/remotes/prime-r3-2-way/


I use the car starter even in the summer/fall with the Kona since it is a turbo. When I put my car scanner on I could see even if you drive like a grandpa you are on boost and sometimes high boost on a dead cold motor. If I know I need to scoot along like being a bit late for work or an appointment. I will start the car 3 mins in advance to start the warm up process. Then you also run into people that are already on their way and are driving like they have a purpose and there you are wanting to move on low boost till you get some heat in your engine driving like a grandpa/road block.



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Thanks Mainia1, I had a Computstar starter in my old Honda for 13 years and it still working. I will be looking at the T9.
 

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Thanks Mainia1, I had a Computstar starter in my old Honda for 13 years and it still working. I will be looking at the T9.



A 13 year old brain might have been updated by now, I would call them and ask if yours will work or if they could do a firmware update. Let use know if it will work.
 

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A 13 year old brain might have been updated by now, I would call them and ask if yours will work or if they could do a firmware update. Let use know if it will work.

The old starter still does what it's supposed to do: lock/unlock the doors and start the engine, when I push the buttons. That's all I wanted it to do and koodos to Compustar for lasting this long. I'll be happy if the new one will do the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The reason for the law forbidding engine idling is supposedly the socialist ecoterrorism here. Just like in the whole EU, but that's a long discussion ? We even have a gasoline particulate filter in the kona here...

I see that the topic drifted away a bit ? Just to be clear- I can afford this webasto, so I don't really have top search for an alternative. The reason for this topic is just a question if it is really needed in this particular vehicle. When I had a 4.0 jeep it warmed up crazy fast and there was no need for additional heating- I can wait 2-3 minutes these few days a year. But for example in my Subaru it takes more like 5 minutes which is annoying considering I have 20 minutes drive to work. So I just wonder if I will need it and actually use it, or maybe it'll just sit in the car.
 
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