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Here is a diagram of the Kona DCT transmission fluid "full level" out flow port. And what a pain in the rear it is to get at. The final way I was able to crack it lose was to use an 8 inch wobble extension, pull the drivers tire, and come in from the back of the upright sub-frame. You need a short 17mm socket. I was about to grind it shorter since my wobble 8 inch extension was not fitting in easily. I just tapped it in with a hammer and cracked it loose.

There are 2 different wobble extension designs, what I am describing is the end of the extension that goes into the socket. One where both sides are machined and the correct dimensions are in the center of the extension end, that's the one I have. The second kind that the end is the correct size and they machine the upper part. Google wobble extensions and you will see. The latter would be harder to pound into the offset socket. You can grind your own to save a trip or wait for shipping.

You fill the trans from a fill port with a black Allen key plug facing the front. You will need 3 Qts. It's speced for 2.11 Qts plus. I did crack open my third Qt.
 

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Interesting

Why did you check it?

I've been wondering about the permanent fluid.
My personal opinion! There is NO permanent fluid of any kind.

Some Audi owners DCT's are failing a few k miles after going over the 40k miles fluid change.
I had 30k on my A3 and was getting ready to change it when I traded, $400 at the dealer, over a hundred to do it yourself and a POS diy.
 

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I agree, there is no such thing as permanent trans fluid. IMHO I believe it should be changed at regular intervals like any other in the vehicle. 30K - 35K's sounds about right.

Mainia1 dod you find a drain plug in the near vicinity or will it need to be sucked out with a siphon system?

Blessings and Peace
 

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The 7 Speed DSG in my "Sealed for Life" VAG (Audi, Skoda, Seat, VW) box went bad a 56K miles (90K Kilometers)
I then saw $3,500 of my money vanish in repairing that.

I traded that one in on the Kona, so... see how this runs.

But we have a 5 year, unlimited kilometer warranty here
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I agree, there is no such thing as permanent trans fluid. IMHO I believe it should be changed at regular intervals like any other in the vehicle. 30K - 35K's sounds about right.

Mainia1 dod you find a drain plug in the near vicinity or will it need to be sucked out with a siphon system?

Blessings and Peace

There are huge 24mm drain plug at the bottom of every unit for every drainable drive line item. Rear diff, transfer case, and DCT trans. Every items oil was changed on my car, rear diff oil was the dirtiest, clean....., but for 2,200 miles surprisingly dirty. Follows my hunch and experience with the newer Rav4. The rear diff is a key area to babysit.

I always flush new cars fluids within the first 3,000 miles. I do it myself, so all it is is the cost of the fluids. My transmission and driveline choice of oil is ALWAYS a group 4 or group 5 oil. I chose Redline as my first go to oil for the driveline and my only go too for l ATF pumper auto trans. Redline or Amsoil for manuals. If syncros don't slow down the gears on a manual, I then switch to Amsoil IF there is a problem. Just too much heat not to use a high heat capable oil, not to mention peace of mind that you have one of the top 3 oils in use in your car.But then again I am on boost more then most. Redline is the only oil manufacture of the two that have the specifically correct 70w/75 oil for the Hyundai DCT trans. Amsoil did not. I am an oil nazi, ( <- purposely left un-capitalized). Like people who like fine wines and craft beer, I like fine oils. They are so close to OEM pricing and far far superior to OEM's cheap group 2/3 or group 3's oils, why every use them. I will now go 25,000 miles on every driveline item except the rear diff, that I will change yearly for $17.50 for a qt of Redline 75w-90 group 5 Hypiod. And yes I will gamble with the warranty.


https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups


Like the Rav 4 the rear diff contains the AWD clutch plates and viscous coupler. With my wifes Rav 4 I always change oil in that item because the clutch plate material is abrasive to the rear diff's bearings, so the less then 1 qt of fluid will be changed yearly. When I drained the rear diff in my wife's lease returned car from upstate NY at 21,400 miles the rear diff fluid was jet black, no hitch and no soccer mom or hauling signs in back area.

There is never ever lifetime oil, the lifetime is ALWAYS shortened because of dirt/metal material and add-pack starved lifetime oil.

This may not be how you guys do it , but it is how I do it on a new car. When it has 100,000 miles on it I will increase change intervals because it is old.







.
 

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Mainia1

So 3 qts of redline mt-lv for the front, and 75-90 for the rear if you have the awd? Just making sure those are correct. Are either fill or drain plug paint marked?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mainia1

So 3 qts of redline mt-lv for the front, and 75-90 for the rear if you have the awd? Just making sure those are correct. Are either fill or drain plug paint marked?
Yep, 3 Qts are needed for the DCT , but you will only use 2.3 or so, no painted plugs. Every drain plug and fill is a 24mm with the exception of the over flow height adj port for the DCT which is a 19mm. The trasfer case is the one that looks like a large beer can and that stays very clear and can be changed at 25,000 OR if you want a full synthetic in there you can drain and fill that.
 

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Another solution to getting to the fill/level port bolt is a short 17mm socket, with a flex head ratchet. Dont mind the dei heat wrap on my ratchet, this was used alot on my last car getting to a bitch of a bolt on the block between the runners of the header.


 
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