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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I will do a durometer test on my trans mount, to see where that N-Line one is at.


The Kona lower trans mount is a Shore A 50.

The 2019 Elantra GT N-Line Trans mount is a Shore A 60.

BUT, they both have the recess that gives it a progressive action. So you have less mass and more movement as the video above shows.

I am happy with mine , but I filled in both recesses with 900psi Gorilla epoxy stick . I greased everything up as not to have it stick . I will post how it works tomorrow since it has to dry at least 12 hours. You know it will be stiffer and won't oscillate like the video. now with this fix. Problem solved for me, I don't need stiffer for this hp. I will be adding the epoxy stick to bushing voids through out the car in do time. The rear diff bushings come to mind. So does the rear suspension trailing arm, but that will be replace with a solid N version before summer.

3524
3525
 

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Discussion Starter #23
*Time- 40 minutes in a mechanics garage with "all" the tools on hand (did the job myself).
*Cost- just the part: $30
*Easy access if you lift the front end and remove lower engine cover.
*Difficulty level- Experienced mechanic, and yes easily reversible. Most difficult part was (patiently) shaving the new bushing down a few millimeters with a Dremel tool to match the bushing housing before reassembly.

On my 2019 Ultimate I just changed out the bushings to the 65a durometer for the 2013 Veloster (linked below) and took out ALL the flop. Yes, a bit more engine noise and vibration in the cabin on startups\idle but this was the trade-off for removing the engine\trans squishiness when Sport driving (which is daily). 👼

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Custom-rear-Motor-mount-insert-for-2011-2013-Hyundai-Veloster-PERFORMANCE-65A/111036339993

Gang, don't get me wrong...I LOVE my Kona, but now that I know the N-line of the Tuscon is coming our in 2020, i'm kicking myself (just a little) for not waiting... I do miss the room, cargo space and ground clearance in my old Tucson. However, i'm really smitten with the styling of my Kona. I still get long looks every time I drive it.
Ground clearance .......I can't go up car ramps anymore with out adding wood , and my front dam hits some parking sloped exits. Yes!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
The Kona lower trans mount is a Shore A 50.

The 2019 Elantra GT N-Line Trans mount is a Shore A 60.

BUT, they both have the recess that gives it a progressive action. So you have less mass and more movement as the video above shows.

I am happy with mine , but I filled in both recesses with 900psi Gorilla epoxy stick . I greased everything up as not to have it stick . I will post how it works tomorrow since it has to dry at least 12 hours. You know it will be stiffer and won't oscillate like the video. now with this fix. Problem solved for me, I don't need stiffer for this hp. I will be adding the epoxy stick to bushing voids through out the car in do time. The rear diff bushings come to mind. So does the rear suspension trailing arm, but that will be replace with a solid N version before summer.

View attachment 3524 View attachment 3525
So you guys with the polyurethane mounts, I doubt you have much oscillation or movement since most do appear to be solid mounts with no concave recess.

Again here are the Shore A figures with OEM mounts.

The Kona lower trans mount is a Shore A 50.

The 2019 Elantra GT N-Line Trans mount is a Shore A 60.

Look at pictures 3 posts above.

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So you guys with the polyurethane mounts, I doubt have much oscillation or movement since most do appear to be solid mounts with no concave recess.

Again here are the Shore A figures with OEM mounts.

The Kona lower trans mount is a Shore A 50.

The 2019 Elantra GT N-Line Trans mount is a Shore A 60.

Look at pictures 3 posts above.

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>The Kona lower trans mount is a Shore A 50.
That doesn't sound right but I believe you. I don't have a durometer, but when I upgraded the stock Kona bushings, I was able to squish them in my hand pretty easily. I'd say they are closer to 35A or 40A. Pretty soft and indicative of the video that was posted earlier. Just MHO.
 

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That doesn't sound right but I believe you. I don't have a durometer, but when I upgraded the stock Kona bushings, I was able to squish them in my hand pretty easily. I'd say they are closer to 35A or 40A. Pretty soft and indicative of the video that was posted earlier. Just MHO.

I Agree, Since i have the 65a green bushings, they are significantly stiffer then the OE.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
That doesn't sound right but I believe you. I don't have a durometer, but when I upgraded the stock Kona bushings, I was able to squish them in my hand pretty easily. I'd say they are closer to 35A or 40A. Pretty soft and indicative of the video that was posted earlier. Just MHO.
I do have a meter and tested it against a $600 one a roller manufacture has and mine was 2 points off from theirs in 3 different different rubber durometers. My readings were at about 60 degrees not 80-90 that you may have tested yours at????
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I Agree, Since i have the 65a green bushings, they are significantly stiffer then the OE.
As my N-Line mount is. The engine assembly was moving all over the place with the Kona mount, when I put in the N-Line mount I hardly fell much movement at all. Did not even catch a second thought about my engine slapping back and forth after installing the mount. After seeing video I freaked out in horror as others did, but still the same non issue since I don't feel it. I added the epoxy as a test to see how much better it is without the concave dead air space. A bit better, but not drastic. I will buy up "if I feel the feel".
 

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I do have a meter and tested it against a $600 one a roller manufacture has and mine was 2 points off from theirs in 3 different different rubber durometers. My readings were at about 60 degrees not 80-90 that you may have tested yours at????
I Agree, Since i have the 65a green bushings, they are significantly stiffer then the OE.
Here's a video a guy did showing how soft the OEM ones are. He was not prepared for the idle vibration he felt from the wheel after switching to the red ones and from the sounds of it, he went back to the OEMs.
 

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Good, keep us up to date with a review.
Ok, upgraded from the 65a to the 75a. Definitely feels like a sports car now with a firm shift and zero lag in Sport Mode. A whole lot of fun manual shifting.
Warning- increased cabin noise at idle in Park. When the engine is cold, I have a low oscillation\vibration that makes me grind my teeth since I have a nice case of hearing tinnitus. I can live with it for the performance bump and will leave it this way. No way to record the undercarriage with the plastic plate down there, it's also winter now and it's freaking cold out to be mounting a camera. I'm sure the movement has been reduced down to 15mm or less.
**For the average Joe, I would recommend the green set as a nice bump-up from stock.
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