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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Disclaimer: This is what happened to work for me. Follow at your own risk.


Tools: 8mm wrench, flat head screwdriver, and hairspray. Yes you need the hairspray.


Prerequisites: Pop the hood, pull the engine cover(pull straight up on it), and have a new intake pipe in hand.








Step 1: Get the little caps off the 8mm bolts on the clamp. Stick a flat head in and pry them out. Try not to loose them in the engine bay. If your car happens to not have these well lucky you.







Step 2: Use the 8mm wrench to get those loose. Not so loose that the metal band falls out of the tightening bolt.


Step 3: Pull it toward the passenger side and up/forward to get it off. Make sure the clamps are plenty loose to clear the lip while pulling on it. Once the turbo side is off just pull up and the other will come off easy.







Step 4: Take the other two caps off the 8mm bolt and loosen the middle section. Take the stock one out. Remember the orientation of the boots that hold it.


Step 5: Take the hairspray and put it on the section of the pipe that will be in the boot. I sprayed a bunch in a rag and wiped it where I needed it to get it evenly but lightly coated. You need this to help it stick when its clamped back in.


Step 6: Tighten the 8mm clamps back in the same spot. Make sure they are somewhat close to the end of the boot. Use the stock pipe to measure how far of a gap to leave between the boots.






Step 7: Also apply hairspray lightly to the turbo side and intake pipe on the passenger side to the outside of the barbed fitting.


Step 8: Do step 3 in reverse then tighten the 8mm bolts on the clamp back up making sure they are near the end of the boot. Ensure that both ends are all the way on the barbed fitting before tightening.

All done.


I used the SXTH pipe to do this install. I have seen them from Tork, turbosocks, and about anywhere that has veloster/elantra performance parts for about $30.



 

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I just finished mine. A bit fiddly getting it off but it went back on easily. I did see that the new pipe is a bit shorter if you take into account the ribs on it are wider than the ones on the resonator. Probably isn’t a concern. I should have taken pics but I had to get it back together before my GF gets home. ?
 

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I have been thinking of doing this. Some people say the car gets more noisy, some say it doesn't. Some say it gives them more low end power, others say they can't tell a difference.

For those those who have done this, can you hear any difference (is it louder under the hood or at the exhaust)?

Do you have better throttle response?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have been thinking of doing this. Some people say the car gets more noisy, some say it doesn't. Some say it gives them more low end power, others say they can't tell a difference.

For those those who have done this, can you hear any difference (is it louder under the hood or at the exhaust)?

Do you have better throttle response?

You mostly notice it in normal mode there will be less hesitation below 2k rpm. The noise increase is marginal at best. You can hear the turbo a little more if you have the windows down and no radio/ac. When you are WOT it seems to perform a bit better above 4k rpm than it did before but nothing huge. Its a $30 upgrade after all so you get what you pay for. Small price for a small increase.
Overall the throttle response is mostly down to going into sport mode. Nothing but a tune will make normal mode less numb.

As a side note make sure to use enough hairspray and crank the clamps down really tight. You want them about a 1/2in from the end of the boot. There is a little alignment bump on the passenger side inter-cooler pipe and a cutout on the boot make sure they line up.
 

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Disclaimer: This is what happened to work for me. Follow at your own risk.


Tools: 8mm wrench, flat head screwdriver, and hairspray. Yes you need the hairspray.


Prerequisites: Pop the hood, pull the engine cover(pull straight up on it), and have a new intake pipe in hand.








Step 1: Get the little caps off the 8mm bolts on the clamp. Stick a flat head in and pry them out. Try not to loose them in the engine bay. If your car happens to not have these well lucky you.







Step 2: Use the 8mm wrench to get those loose. Not so loose that the metal band falls out of the tightening bolt.


Step 3: Pull it toward the passenger side and up/forward to get it off. Make sure the clamps are plenty loose to clear the lip while pulling on it. Once the turbo side is off just pull up and the other will come off easy.







Step 4: Take the other two caps off the 8mm bolt and loosen the middle section. Take the stock one out. Remember the orientation of the boots that hold it.


Step 5: Take the hairspray and put it on the section of the pipe that will be in the boot. I sprayed a bunch in a rag and wiped it where I needed it to get it evenly but lightly coated. You need this to help it stick when its clamped back in.


Step 6: Tighten the 8mm clamps back in the same spot. Make sure they are somewhat close to the end of the boot. Use the stock pipe to measure how far of a gap to leave between the boots.






Step 7: Also apply hairspray lightly to the turbo side and intake pipe on the passenger side to the outside of the barbed fitting.


Step 8: Do step 3 in reverse then tighten the 8mm bolts on the clamp back up making sure they are near the end of the boot. Ensure that both ends are all the way on the barbed fitting before tightening.

All done.


I used the SXTH pipe to do this install. I have seen them from Tork, turbosocks, and about anywhere that has veloster/elantra performance parts for about $30.



I have to say, I just installed this and I just cannot believe the difference in driving dynamics. It feels like a totally different engine and trans. Just adding this pipe can make all this difference. I am just so pleasantly shocked at this $29 addition. Wow. Would not believe if I did not experience myself!!
 

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A couple of comments.

Thought I had a 8mm open end wrench...can't find it :unsure: .
I used a 1/4" drive and 8mm socket, passanger side not easy, driver side pos!
If you don't have the wrench go get one.

I fixed the driver side before the install, rotated the hose 45* or more, now the clamp is toward the front of the hood :eek:(n)o_O without the motor cover I see the hose clamps.

Don't know the torque but the clamps were NOT tight, I could move the hose, can't now.
20200728_181707.jpg
20200728_183952.jpg
 

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Think I am going to move forward with this mod, I don't see anything but positive feedback from the community and it sounds as if it wont effect the warranty

Is the hairspray really necessary? My cousin has his own shop and he said he had something better, not sure what it could be but he is a master mechanic so I cant argue with him.
 

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Think I am going to move forward with this mod, I don't see anything but positive feedback from the community and it sounds as if it wont effect the warranty

Is the hairspray really necessary? My cousin has his own shop and he said he had something better, not sure what it could be but he is a master mechanic so I cant argue with him.
I did the install without the hairspray. I've had no problems so far. Then again I tightened the clamps really really hard.
 

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Anyone have the dimensions on the turbo outlet and the intercooler piping sizes? I want to replace the stock couplers with high temp silicone ones. Thanks!
 

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Lots of info on the forum, here are a couple quotes to get you started.
Hyundai volester 1.6T 2019 or 2016 cold air intake fits the kona 1.6T and its cheaper.
I installed a new Veloster N intercooler today. It has the same core, but the Veloster N has plastic end caps and it doesn't have the Kona's end cap restriction. Instead of the Kona's rough est. 1+ inch intake restricted hole, the Veloster N's intercooler has a straight 2 inch piped end cap without restriction. The Kona's original intercooler has a 45 deg restricted intake side. To get the 45 deg silicone connector on and have the exit pipe ( with recerc valve ) that goes up the the throttle body. It would hit the engine and would move this pipe back and froth with engine movement. I pulled the intercooler out a bit using drilled rubber tapered rubber corks from Menard's and side shaved then to fit along side the old Kona intercooler threaded nut holes. I could only mount one original mounting holes on the top driver side. But needed a longer bolt. I used a RotoZip to take some material off the plastic struts that come down off the radiator so it would fit better. Black plastic is the Veloster N intercooler and the aluminum side tanks is the Kona intercooler.

The forum search tool is pretty easy to use it's located in the black tool bar above, click "Search Community"

There are several performance posters here, some active, some not, unfortunately some banned (DJkona) some fortunately banned (y)
1fastKona, Mainia1 and the already mentioned DJkona to name a few.
 

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I miss DJ, he had some great information, i would have loved to pick his brain on a few things.
 
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