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You have to connect a wire from the fuse box tapping ignition because if you don't it won't send power when the car is on nor will your amps work because the loc is basically an interface to interpret signals to convert them into rca level signal .if it doesn't have power it can't convert the signal or turn on for that matter and wherever you connect that remote should also be connected into the sub Amp as well
 

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Finger Circuit component Thumb Nail Electrical wiring

Electrical wiring Cable Thumb Electrical supply Wire

Ok so crutchfield said the red cable in the harness is power, should I power so I can power the LOC, r u saying power for the sub should be the fuse box? I have a sub amp combo, I have power, remote and ground all hooked up, there is 2 blue cables in the harness from what I can tell are both solid blue, I'll go check when it stops raining this might be a 2 day project lol, 22 you're awesome man thanks for all the replies this whole time.
 

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I ripped out the LOC, I have no right rear speaker now so thanks crutchfield, I'm gonna try high level inputs now, I guess this forum is dead when someone needs help but that is anyway 22 atleast you tried
 

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Hey Guys, I just purchased a 2023 Hyundia Kona N-Line, I'm wanting to install a sub. I have an LOC, amp and sub ready, but I do not know which wires I need to connect to the LOC. Can anyone who has gone a similar route give me some insight? Thank you
 

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I just bought this. It has an LOC included but you can cut the loc out and use yours with the cut wires.


You'll also have the remote wire.

If not you have to tap into the front speaker wire behind the head unit (look for the 38+35 pins diagram online).
 

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The rear speakers signal looks weak, the bass is not good enough I think You would have to restore it maybe before LOC so forget it.

You could tap one of the front speaker (door or harness near door).

I think putting a harness at the head unit is a good choice, it'll be easy if you want to expand later with better amp / door speakers down the line. Your sub will show the lack of amplification of your door speakers btw.

FYI, I'm going the harness way (could cut the wires anyway) to install a 5.1 DSP/AMP (Audison AF M5.11 bit). It will drive Kenwood excellon speakers and a Audison 10" 400w sub.
To feed the sub, I'll use the low freq signal from front speakers, not rears.

The stock speakers are quite bad. Running the Kenwood out of the factory unit right now and it's already way better, plenty of midbass, tweeter crystal clear.
 
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