Hi all. Last fall I bought new speakers from Crutchfield. Kicker (Clearance) 6 3/4" 2 way for the rear doors. And Components for the front doors. Did the rears first a couple weeks ago. As I needed parts to do the front. Brackets to hold the new tweeters. Between work schedules and Weather, I was finally able to change the fronts. Kicker KS series. Rated for 100 watts per channel rms. These are higher end ones. Running off the stock radio. Until I can get an aftermarket amplifier. Thinking 75 watts per channel or so. I drive with the windows down They sound so much nicer than stock. Mine is a 2019 SE AWD model. So I don't have the upgraded stock system.
Finally replaced my speakers
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Hi
Was it difficult to do, esp open up the front doors?
Where did you find the info on how to get at the speakers? Did you get the instructions from Crutchfield?
I hate the way my Limited EV-s stock stereo sounds, but find that getting at the speakers tends to be a pain, often resulting in broken clips, etc.
Knowing how makes a huge difference...
Was it difficult to do, esp open up the front doors?
Where did you find the info on how to get at the speakers? Did you get the instructions from Crutchfield?
I hate the way my Limited EV-s stock stereo sounds, but find that getting at the speakers tends to be a pain, often resulting in broken clips, etc.
Knowing how makes a huge difference...
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398 Posts
The hardest part about changing them was removing the door panels. I broke one pin. Took about an hour for me - besides speakers you need an adapter for height and they seem frivolous but the scosche speaker adapter plugs made the job easier. I mounted the speakers on the frame and wired up the adapters before I removed the panels.
Then it was just -
- remove door panels
- unplug wiring and door cables
- removing the old speakers
- plug in the new ones
- mount the speakers
- test them (do this before you reinstall the door panels)
- a little cable management
- reinstall the door panels (paying attention to the door wires and cables)
The front door panels you start by taking off the tiny triangle up by the mirrors. For all the doors - when you have them separated from the doors you lift up and then out. The window seal sits on a lip.
If you buy speakers from a place like Crutchfield, You would get the Install Sheets. Wiring Plugs. And the Scosche Brackets. Only thing was, The Screws that came with my Kickers were too long. Had to buy some shorter screws from the local HD. So I can attach the Speaker to Bracket. I forget which ones I bought. 3/8" long. Round Philips Head. Can't remember if they were #8 or 10? The same screw that help the factory speaker in. Had to mount the speakers upside down. So the Wiring Plugs could reach the factory plugs.
I have seen some youtube videos, they make it look so easy. Looks like it only takes them a few minutes to remove a door panel.
Remove all the hidden screws, then use a special custom plastic spatula, starting at the bottom to pop all the nap fasteners out, finally lift the panel off. (Finally unhook the door handle cable & wires), Is this the approach you followed? What sort of trouble did you run into so it took an hour?
Remove all the hidden screws, then use a special custom plastic spatula, starting at the bottom to pop all the nap fasteners out, finally lift the panel off. (Finally unhook the door handle cable & wires), Is this the approach you followed? What sort of trouble did you run into so it took an hour?
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398 Posts
I used a bicycle tire lever to begin the door panel removal but yes, this is pretty much the same way I did it.
Didn't encounter any trouble, just took my time. Did it over two years ago and haven't regretted it.
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1 Posts
When installing the front components, did you notice how the stock tweeter was wired? Wondering where the crossover happens for the stock arrangement. Did your components come with an external crossover, how did you mount it if they did? How did you mount the kicker tweeters?
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16 Posts
Just began designing my solution for my replacements (Kenwood xr1701p with a big crossover).
Stock tweeters are in parallel with woofer, so once unplugged, you can only use the white / black wire going to woofer to osend signal to aftermarket crossover for both speakers.
Stock tweeter has integrated bracket with 2 screws. I used ageneric metal braket that has holes init sold by crutchfield. Cut it to lenght, bent it and screwed in theaftermarket tweeter. Works well.
Thing is I didn't find the space for the crossover on the door itself because if the plastic film that I didn't want cut. So I did stick it to the door trim in the lower cornerbeside the cup holder. Their is a big space. It means Inow have to design easy connectors to be able to separate the trim to the door when removing it for maintenance purpose.
Stock speaker wire and woofer ar on the door, but crossover and tweeter are mounted in the trim for my build...
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