I’m not expecting to see too many dyno sheets on this car.. Just don’t see many performance oriented people buying or modding these types of cars, as compared to the usual sport/muscle car types..
Maybe not immediately popular platform, but its a place to start. My last car, B16 Nissan platform didnt get popular till after the plaltform was discontinued. If people see progress, whether its performance, reliability, and or fuel economy, more will come. The first few years are typically slow because everyone fears the warranty.
Like maybe 3 total. None from me, I am in warranty mode and wont touch my ECU. If I remember right there are 2 people that said they did dyno runs and one had a piggyback.
Has anyone actually tried it that way? No issues with sensors not having the rear wheels in action ?
Is the speed sensor on the output shaft or computed via abs sensor on the wheels ? These newer cars
are always wanting to see some input from everything..
Congrats ! Thats impressive power to the wheels.. Please list your mods that you had on that run.. Looks like you max tq is higher up the rpm range than stock too.. Thanks for sharing..
As for mods, my short CF intake, hot side resonator delete, bored/polished throttle body, 93 octane bp fuel, exhaust muffler delete with an added jones turbine resonator.
So no tune or piggyback? And is that at the wheels or calculated engine hp and tq?
I'm hoping the Kona becomes Hyundai's wrx not sti lol I would love 230 hp and 250 tq!
So no tune or piggyback? And is that at the wheels or calculated engine hp and tq?
I'm hoping the Kona becomes Hyundai's wrx not sti lol I would love 230 hp and 250 tq!
Now as a winter project, im thinking about making a new CF intake, with airbox, but also replace all the aluminium turbo piping with CF, smoothing out some of those sharp radius's, eliminating some of the couplers in the process. This will have almost no impact on direct performance gains. Again, its about efficiency at that point. Less turbulent air flow, no added heat by engine temp, and less chance of failure and boost leaks.
After that is all said and done, i intend to put it back on the dyno and see if anything changed, if any.
I personally don't know enough about the engine to decide when im out of warranty to do some internal work.
Now as a winter project, im thinking about making a new CF intake, with airbox, but also replace all the aluminium turbo piping with CF, smoothing out some of those sharp radius's, eliminating some of the couplers in the process. This will have almost no impact on direct performance gains. Again, its about efficiency at that point. Less turbulent air flow, no added heat by engine temp, and less chance of failure and boost leaks.
After that is all said and done, i intend to put it back on the dyno and see if anything changed, if any.
I personally don't know enough about the engine to decide when im out of warranty to do some internal work.
I think you will gain something, I sure hope you do with all your effort.
I will be posting hopefully something on my filter direction I am going, in week or so IF it works. I am not a fan of K&N for long term street. I am going another direction that I hope works. It will not gain hp like a K&N, but better then a stock Kona setup.
I have a local dyno tunner shop that has an in ground AWD dyno, I may have to do a pull or two.
I made 3 tubes, Next time im back at my shop wont be till sunday. I'll check if i have an undamaged, unmodified tube for you. If i do, we can figure out price. Im thinking just shipping cost.
I did light digging on the dynojet, and apparently it reads higher? I don’t know what to believe though. They say it’s a 12-15% higher reading than a mustang dyno, (which I calculated 12%) the power figures are close to stock rated HP and Torque. But obviously the stock numbers aren’t to the wheels. With the calculation, we are actually pushing stock numbers to the wheels now is what I’m getting?
so that’s still a good amount of gains for bolt ons and removals. Which is still about 30hp increase for ratings to the wheels
this debate has been going on for decades on practically every performance automotive forum in existence.. dynojet vs mustang dyno results.. the most useful way is to get a stock baseline number for your car and go from there so when you do mods and upgrades you can know the gains.. otherwise go with the highest number.. lol..
what I found to be more accurate is 1/4 mile trap speed. It will show power at the ET which translates to HP.. even with slippage, the 1320 still shows power via mph trap speed.. test and tune nights are fun too..
We need someone to dyno a stock one on a similar dyno to get a better baseline thats for sure.
You have to remember the 175hp rating is also worst case. Like... hot 90° day in the mountains with high humidity.. where is... a low humid (good look) cool 60° day at sea level here in florida would net quite a bit different. Every 10° intake air temperature is ~1% power.
Coming from racing experience. Cars weren't underratted for insurance reasons since 60s.
That dyno just wasnt calibrated well. There is no factory freak cars anymore. Also newer Hyundai and Kia actually LOSE power with Bolt on mods because the computer trips out (see TORKS video on this).
240whp on a dyno for a 210hp vehicle is about 40% high. Manufactures see normally a 2%range at most
Coming from racing experience. Cars weren't underratted for insurance reasons since 60s.
That dyno just wasnt calibrated well. There is no factory freak cars anymore. Also newer Hyundai and Kia actually LOSE power with Bolt on mods because the computer trips out (see TORKS video on this).
240whp on a dyno for a 210hp vehicle is about 40% high. Manufactures see normally a 2%range at most
I bought the hardware to install my ECU tune. I have to download my original file and send it off. This Friday I am going to to a custom muffler shop to pull the second cat and full center pipe including the resonator in one piece. Then have a stainless pipe with flanges welded up so I can switch it back if needed. Other things are in the works too, now that I have decided to ECU tune my car.
I have been running a DTE piggyback for a little less then a year. 230hp+ with 270 ft lbs of tq. are my est. on an ECU tune. Don't get too unrealistic with our little smitten turbos. Unless you have a stuffed turbo, you are limited with our wimpy DCT clutch's.
I was told 280-290 is clutch burn territory. So I opted for WAY safe at 240wtq but we might aim for higher. Maybe 230whp / 260wtq
I'm just talking with my Dealer because they have a performance division that for anything they install (including water meth/JB4 combo) they make sure you keep your factory warranty.
That being said. I dont want a jb4. So I'm having them speak with my tuner about how we can make everyone happy. Tuner gets money. Dealership gets money. I get mo-powah.
I was told 280-290 is clutch burn territory. So I opted for WAY safe at 240wtq but we might aim for higher. Maybe 230whp / 260wtq
I'm just talking with my Dealer because they have a performance division that for anything they install (including water meth/JB4 combo) they make sure you keep your factory warranty.
That being said. I dont want a jb4. So I'm having them speak with my tuner about how we can make everyone happy. Tuner gets money. Dealership gets money. I get mo-powah.
[/QUOT
I was told 280-290 is clutch burn territory. So I opted for WAY safe at 240wtq but we might aim for higher. Maybe 230whp / 260wtq
I'm just talking with my Dealer because they have a performance division that for anything they install (including water meth/JB4 combo) they make sure you keep your factory warranty.
That being said. I dont want a jb4. So I'm having them speak with my tuner about how we can make everyone happy. Tuner gets money. Dealership gets money. I get mo-powah.
well ****, due to your stance on my wrecked gti, i went back to look at the other dynos, turns out your correct 215 hp 260 tq stock, i dont know what the group of guys in those forums were talking about, now i know why my local shop looked at me funny when i mentioned my 260 hp stock gti lol, ive been saying that for the 5 years i had it feel like a dumass thanks for correcting me
You are starting from 180hp and 200tq. 280 to 290 is "stuffed turbo" hp, not oem small turbo power. John at Tork took out his DCT clutch in 20,000 miles. That car has 280 hp, an Elantra Sport that is a shop car/wife's car. Sure would be nice if the dealer backed an ECU tune. I just want to get rid of all the smitt in OEM tune that toure limits and opens up the wastegate. Classic example, I just installed a lower Veloster R-Spec airbox without the cold air hookup that will need to be Micky Moused. I lost 15-20 hp with no low end torque. Tomorrow is, center pipe, 2nd cat and resonator uninstall day. I bet I will lose another 10hp+, where when you have an ECU tune that should of given me 10+ hp. I also have been running a GFB recirculate valve valve for about 2 months.
We can buy OEM clutch kit for $675. We need to get the Russan's to hack the DCT computer so we can adjust the clutch engagement lever at the correct speed and timing with the 400 ftlbs clutch plates that are out there. There is no final home for these 400 Tq clutches on Hyundai's , until the password gets cracked. Untill then, we are HP/TQ limited.
280-290 was for TORQUE to burn the clutches. (From John) so he said aim for 260 wheel torque if you want reliable.
John is my tuner and the ES has a weaker DCT he said. The Kona and Seltos (and maybe Soul) are bigger heavier (and sometimes AWD) so their DCT is stronger.
I'll talk to john buuutt he MAY have something for DCT tuning. Clutch engagement tuning would probably let these oem clutches take another 15% without burning.
Every mod he did to the veloster lost power until tuned. Thats what's crazy to me.
That's where my tune is coming from. I wanted to option to take my tune on or off, so I bought the hardware to do it. he has some micro control through the ECU I guess. Things run better when you don't drop timing on every shift too. When are you getting your tune?
DTUK has a DCT flash for our cars. But in the Audi forums people complain it goes away after time, like a ween or so. It must be some form of a flash in the "adaptive" ram that is not password protected.