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I did light digging on the dynojet, and apparently it reads higher? I don’t know what to believe though. They say it’s a 12-15% higher reading than a mustang dyno, (which I calculated 12%) the power figures are close to stock rated HP and Torque. But obviously the stock numbers aren’t to the wheels. With the calculation, we are actually pushing stock numbers to the wheels now is what I’m getting?

so that’s still a good amount of gains for bolt ons and removals. Which is still about 30hp increase for ratings to the wheels
this debate has been going on for decades on practically every performance automotive forum in existence.. dynojet vs mustang dyno results.. the most useful way is to get a stock baseline number for your car and go from there so when you do mods and upgrades you can know the gains.. otherwise go with the highest number.. lol..
what I found to be more accurate is 1/4 mile trap speed. It will show power at the ET which translates to HP.. even with slippage, the 1320 still shows power via mph trap speed.. test and tune nights are fun too..
 

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We need someone to dyno a stock one on a similar dyno to get a better baseline thats for sure.

You have to remember the 175hp rating is also worst case. Like... hot 90° day in the mountains with high humidity.. where is... a low humid (good look) cool 60° day at sea level here in florida would net quite a bit different. Every 10° intake air temperature is ~1% power.
 

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this debate has been going on for decades on practically every performance automotive forum in existence.. dynojet vs mustang dyno results.. the most useful way is to get a stock baseline number for your car and go from there so when you do mods and upgrades you can know the gains.. otherwise go with the highest number.. lol..
what I found to be more accurate is 1/4 mile trap speed. It will show power at the ET which translates to HP.. even with slippage, the 1320 still shows power via mph trap speed.. test and tune nights are fun too..
..or yeah.. a quarter mile. Trap speed never lies
 

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What i find interesting the most, is how restricted the stock engine seems to be. If we know stock hp at the crank is 175hp, that's approx 141hp to the wheels. So with bearly any bolt-ons, to do 184hp to the wheels, how does an intake produce 43 hp? The hotside resonator delete, and the port and polish of the TB, should really only effect efficiency. Plus my recirculation valve is venting to atmosphere, not into the intake.

So i wonder if the rating we are following is incorrect. Maybe the Kona produces approx 175hp to the wheels. not the crank, which would put the gain from the intake mods at about 9hp, which is inline with the Injen Intake rating.
on my 15 vw gti, stock hp was 210 on paper, on a stock car they showed over 240hp at dyno, car was grossly marked wrong, maybe vw marked it at 210hp for insurance purposes or something
 

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Coming from racing experience. Cars weren't underratted for insurance reasons since 60s.

That dyno just wasnt calibrated well. There is no factory freak cars anymore. Also newer Hyundai and Kia actually LOSE power with Bolt on mods because the computer trips out (see TORKS video on this).

240whp on a dyno for a 210hp vehicle is about 40% high. Manufactures see normally a 2%range at most
 

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Not trying to be rude just making sure.
 

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Coming from racing experience. Cars weren't underratted for insurance reasons since 60s.

That dyno just wasnt calibrated well. There is no factory freak cars anymore. Also newer Hyundai and Kia actually LOSE power with Bolt on mods because the computer trips out (see TORKS video on this).

240whp on a dyno for a 210hp vehicle is about 40% high. Manufactures see normally a 2%range at most
is that a racing equation to get the 40 percent? its only a 13 percent difference
 

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is that a racing equation to get the 40 percent? its only a 13 percent difference

As per your 240 hp on a dyno ...(which measures power to the WHEEL) comment....

Standard (although not correct) 15% drivetrain loss brings 210 down to 178.5whp.... but to male 240 youd need to make 35% more power (sorry my 40% was a rough guess)..so no not racecar math basic math.

I see lots of cars on lots of dynos and lots of track runs.

A tuning company..thee premier tuning company for Hyundai/Kia 1.6T (in most peoples opinion) said dont eve buy THEIR OWN PRODUCT (intake, down pipe, muffler delete) because it LOST POWER on the dyno without a tune vs stock.

So if bolt ons MADE more power the would sell them and make money instead they made a video saying dont do bolt ons without a tune becase it hurts performance.

That being said this car feels every bit of 175hp and a SOLID 195 flat torque curve and NO MORE

The tune we are getting is 230-240 wtq which is optomized timing/fuel all bolt ons and e85
 

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As per your 240 hp on a dyno ...(which measures power to the WHEEL) comment....

Standard (although not correct) 15% drivetrain loss brings 210 down to 178.5whp.... but to male 240 youd need to make 35% more power (sorry my 40% was a rough guess)..so no not racecar math basic math.

I see lots of cars on lots of dynos and lots of track runs.

A tuning company..thee premier tuning company for Hyundai/Kia 1.6T (in most peoples opinion) said dont eve buy THEIR OWN PRODUCT (intake, down pipe, muffler delete) because it LOST POWER on the dyno without a tune vs stock.

So if bolt ons MADE more power the would sell them and make money instead they made a video saying dont do bolt ons without a tune becase it hurts performance.

That being said this car feels every bit of 175hp and a SOLID 195 flat torque curve and NO MORE

The tune we are getting is 230-240 wtq which is optomized timing/fuel all bolt ons and e85
i just looked it up again
acutally they are all saying its 250 to 260 hp plus your racing math so 30bhp more than what vw advertises on that car
 

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I bought the hardware to install my ECU tune. I have to download my original file and send it off. This Friday I am going to to a custom muffler shop to pull the second cat and full center pipe including the resonator in one piece. Then have a stainless pipe with flanges welded up so I can switch it back if needed. Other things are in the works too, now that I have decided to ECU tune my car.

I have been running a DTE piggyback for a little less then a year. 230hp+ with 270 ft lbs of tq. are my est. on an ECU tune. Don't get too unrealistic with our little smitten turbos. Unless you have a stuffed turbo, you are limited with our wimpy DCT clutch's.
 

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Race car math if its on a dyno its in WHP . But what do I know. Enough with the hyper powered Wednesday motor having supercar GTIs that run 14s stock.

@Mainia1

I was told 280-290 is clutch burn territory. So I opted for WAY safe at 240wtq but we might aim for higher. Maybe 230whp / 260wtq

I'm just talking with my Dealer because they have a performance division that for anything they install (including water meth/JB4 combo) they make sure you keep your factory warranty.

That being said. I dont want a jb4. So I'm having them speak with my tuner about how we can make everyone happy. Tuner gets money. Dealership gets money. I get mo-powah.
 

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You are starting from 180hp and 200tq. 280 to 290 is "stuffed turbo" hp, not oem small turbo power. John at Tork took out his DCT clutch in 20,000 miles. That car has 280 hp, an Elantra Sport that is a shop car/wife's car. Sure would be nice if the dealer backed an ECU tune. I just want to get rid of all the smitt in OEM tune that toure limits and opens up the wastegate. Classic example, I just installed a lower Veloster R-Spec airbox without the cold air hookup that will need to be Micky Moused. I lost 15-20 hp with no low end torque. Tomorrow is, center pipe, 2nd cat and resonator uninstall day. I bet I will lose another 10hp+, where when you have an ECU tune that should of given me 10+ hp. I also have been running a GFB recirculate valve valve for about 2 months.

We can buy OEM clutch kit for $675. We need to get the Russan's to hack the DCT computer so we can adjust the clutch engagement lever at the correct speed and timing with the 400 ftlbs clutch plates that are out there. There is no final home for these 400 Tq clutches on Hyundai's , until the password gets cracked. Untill then, we are HP/TQ limited.
 

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You are starting from 180hp and 200tq. 280 to 290 is "stuffed turbo" hp, not oem small turbo power. John at Tork took out his DCT clutch in 20,000 miles. That car has 280 hp, an Elantra Sport that is a shop car/wife's car. Sure would be nice if the dealer backed an ECU tune. I just want to get rid of all the smitt in OEM tune that toure limits and opens up the wastegate. Classic example, I just installed a lower Veloster R-Spec airbox without the cold air hookup that will need to be Micky Moused. I lost 15-20 hp with no low end torque. Tomorrow is, center pipe, 2nd cat and resonator uninstall day. I bet I will lose another 10hp+, where when you have an ECU tune that should of given me 10+ hp. I also have been running a GFB recirculate valve valve for about 2 months.

We can buy OEM clutch kit for $675. We need to get the Russan's to hack the DCT computer so we can adjust the clutch engagement lever at the correct speed and timing with the 400 ftlbs clutch plates that are out there. There is no final home for these 400 Tq clutches on Hyundai's , until the password gets cracked. Untill then, we are HP/TQ limited.
280-290 was for TORQUE to burn the clutches. (From John) so he said aim for 260 wheel torque if you want reliable.

John is my tuner and the ES has a weaker DCT he said. The Kona and Seltos (and maybe Soul) are bigger heavier (and sometimes AWD) so their DCT is stronger.

I'll talk to john buuutt he MAY have something for DCT tuning. Clutch engagement tuning would probably let these oem clutches take another 15% without burning.

Every mod he did to the veloster lost power until tuned. Thats what's crazy to me.
 

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That's where my tune is coming from. I wanted to option to take my tune on or off, so I bought the hardware to do it. he has some micro control through the ECU I guess. Things run better when you don't drop timing on every shift too. When are you getting your tune?
 

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I was waiting to sell my truck to get the money to buy tune/equipment.

Let me know how it is
 

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DTUK has a DCT flash for our cars. But in the Audi forums people complain it goes away after time, like a ween or so. It must be some form of a flash in the "adaptive" ram that is not password protected.
 
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