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Nailed it this morning using long deep 24mm socket. Gear oil looks terrible with 4,025 miles. Letting it drain now. Haven’t wiped off 🧲 bolt yet
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sorry, 4025 miles!

After thinking about it, I too had a hard "first off" of those drain and fill 24mm bolt stubs. After reading your post I want to add my post on what I did to help make this process go smoother. The 24mm socket I had was like all other sockets, they have a tapered counter sunk relief cut into them. I would say 1/8th of my sockets have this counter sunk ground off because of they don't work right on short height or half height bolt heads. I took my 24mm standard depth socket and while wearing safety glasses I might add, I did the big NO NO and use the side of my 8 inch bench grinding wheel and take off the counter sink. I go slow as not to put much side load. This lets you get 100% of the socket to bite on the bolt head, instead of say 25% or less on some of these 1/2 height to 1/4 height bolt heads. Even closed end wrenches have this counter sink that only lets 1/2 or less engagement of the two surfaces. Good to see got it off. See how dirty it can be if you use your car aggressively. I would do another dump very soon to flush that out. Its worth another $$ of oil to get it cleaner.
 

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Excellent suggestion. You are absolutely correct. Every socket i used has poor bite ability, and the bolts that Hyundai uses have little lip, so you could easily round off the edge. I got a ratchet wrench from HD yesterday which makes fill bolt easier to get off but is useless for the drain bolt since they put a metal circular fence around it! Much better design on american cars which just let you shove the ratchet into a bolt with a 1/2 in hole in it!. What makes it worse is that there is little clearance with suspension and exhaust pipe. the drain bolt requires you to work upside down! try holding the socket onto the bolt and then crack it without it slipping down. Boo! I don't drive aggressively! I rarely go above 65 mph, and only have 4k miles in one year of use. I will fill it up with Redline later today and then dump again in 4k miles. My 2007 subie outback had that color at 100k!
 

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Once you get past this initial break in period it stays cleaner for a longer time. I am at 19,000 miles and have done mine 4 times. The last one was pretty clean. So I figure I am totally broken in now. I did mine 2000 then at 7000 and at 10,000 and then at 17,000. I will do it every 10,000 to 15,000 miles from now on. The next dump will give me the answer to that. Since you drive easy once you get it through it's break in you could easily go 25,000 miles I bet.
 

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Sounds good. Once you break the bolts first time its a piece of cake to do this again. I should have bought replacement washers, oh well.....I don't think i have ever changed the washer on my oil bolt in the subie in 10 years of doing oil changes. never leaked. I want to find the fill/drain bolt for the front PTO (PTU) to check that out as well, but you said it was clean after 30k.
I would do the transmission also, but for $200 or so, i will let hyundai flush it at 30k. Seems to be some gnarly plastic fill bolt that needs a chunk taken out to remove since some part is in the way. Unless by BiPolar kicks in and i just have to do it immediately (lol). Flush seems better since all the fluid including the torque converter will get changed at once, rather than fill/drain repeat. (I have the SEL model).
 

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It's up to you but I do 100% flush 15,000 to 20,000. It is better to get it early with all the break-in particles. You saw how bad your diff is, granted your ATF pumping trans has about 8 qts, but lets say 40 micron and below are battering all the bearings and solenoids for 30,000 miles. Once you you change the first ATF filter and 100% of the fluid ,you really never need to change the filter again since it is so porous and once the break-in clutch material is out of there the ATF filter is just a rock catcher. An ATF filter is VERY porous, filtering at 80 micron compared to say a Fram Ultra engine filter that filters at 99% at 20 micron.

You allows have an option of using an inline ATF filter. I use this filter that filters down as low as 5 micron, but main is 20 micron. It is in all of my ATF cars as we speak. Their are copies of it with crap pleated filter media in it so I ONLY get mine from the inverter/tester who sold the patent to someone, but I can't find who and if they are the copies floating around with the crap pleated filters. You line size would be 3/8. They say change it every 50,000 miles, I change my first one out at 10,000 and then every 25,000 after that, I want high flow. But it may effect warranty. My wife's car is a 2014 Rav4 and daughters car is a 2005 Honda Civic all past their low drive train warranty vs the high Hyundai one. I myself would risk it if I owned a new ATF pumping car. I would make sure I used it for 1 month and then pull it and was able to get it back to stock with no cut hoses.

My daughter who is a Gen Z who knows nothing but her phone knew I was doing "something" to her car and said she noticed a fast shifting ( no partials slowing down the solenoids) and smother shifting transmission. The TransProtector, from Russel Transmission.


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At my current usage I won’t hit 30k for 7 yrs. lol. I’m content to having Hyundai doing the flush then or maybe 40. I don’t tow, not aggressive and it’s not DCT. I’m thinking that even a tranny flush at 40k is more than sufficient for severe driving intervals. With 100k powertrain I’m covered anyway. After 10 yrs I will be more than ready to move on to something else.
no reason for me to put in ATF filter or tranny cooler.
Depends on driving style. I don’t want to invest lots of money and time into a lower trim model which I bought primarily for the warranty. At 59 with diabetes and herniated disks I can’t do what I did b4.
wish I was 20 yrs younger!
 

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As luck would have it, even with careful technique, I mangled one edge on the drain bolt! Another edge is chipped a bit.
installed and torqued fine. Now to find a replacement for each of these bolts.
any parts numbers? I could order from local dealer but net is so much easier.
Thanks. -Wayne
 

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Figured instead of making my own post, and seeing how Mainia1 has quite a few answers, I should just ask here:

What is your opinion on doing DCT fluid, and transfer case fluid replacements alongside the Diff fluid change? The manual calls out for inspection on the DCT fluid, Diff fluid, and Transfer case fluid at 40,000 km (25,000 miles), but given the general consensus, it is best off to just replace the Diff oil on the first go. Should I be getting the dealer to also change the transmission and transfer case fluid even though it has only been a year (I am at 39950 km in 1 year), or just do an "inspection" as they put it in the manual?
 

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Figured instead of making my own post, and seeing how Mainia1 has quite a few answers, I should just ask here:

What is your opinion on doing DCT fluid, and transfer case fluid replacements alongside the Diff fluid change? The manual calls out for inspection on the DCT fluid, Diff fluid, and Transfer case fluid at 40,000 km (25,000 miles), but given the general consensus, it is best off to just replace the Diff oil on the first go. Should I be getting the dealer to also change the transmission and transfer case fluid even though it has only been a year (I am at 39950 km in 1 year), or just do an "inspection" as they put it in the manual?
I say do them all at your mileage. Since you are in Canada and have colder winters then we do in Minnesota .I would run Redline oils. While running them would not void the warranties in the USA, it may in Canada. If I lived there it would not matter, I would still change it out to Redline oil. It's a far superior oil then Hyundai oil by a far margin. Hyundai will not know you changed out their average oil for far better oil if you do it at a different shop. I would buy the oil and take it to a German privater auto repair shop that has a good reputations from people you know who have German cars or go by Google reviews.

Or have Hyundai do it with Hyundai oil. They will say you don't need to do it, and most will put up a fight that you don't need it, but they are clueless how dirty the rear diffs get so quickly because very few care to look how dirty the AWD clutchk pack break-in material gets with a measly 1/2 qt, of oil in it. It's up to you.

This is the DCT trans oil that includes the front diff that uses the same oil , as they use the same common oil and common sump. The "fill level" they will use for the DCT/front diff is located on the drivers side where the front CV joint comes out of trans case.. The fill hole is at the 3:00 position. This is GL-4 oil. You need 4 Qts. Check your manual before buying. I think it is 3.2 qts



The rear dif and transfer case use 75w-90 GL-5 gear oil. The transfer case is really a PTO shaft, it is a hair bigger then a 16oz Monster sport drink can and is accessed of the passenger side of the transmission. You will need 2.0qts total for both.


After you replace the transfer case you will not need to really replace that for another 50,000 miles plus. It is just a PTO case and nothing is really happening in there like the AWD diff . It is more important to change the rear diff.
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I am thinking since I am getting the dealership to do it, I will ask for the Diff fluid replace, and inspection on the others. Next year, or whenever I have time, I will get that fluid and replace the DCT, and Transfer case fluid, with the diff fluid at 80k km. Next year I won't be putting as many kms on it, but I can't see it needing to be replaced each and ever 40k kms. I guess we will see.
 

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I say do them all at your mileage. Since you are in Canada and have colder winters then we do in Minnesota .I would run Redline oils. While running them would not void the warranties in the USA, it may in Canada. If I lived there it would not matter, I would still change it out to Redline oil. It's a far superior oil then Hyundai oil by a far margin. Hyundai will not know you changed out their average oil for far better oil if you do it at a different shop. I would buy the oil and take it to a German privater auto repair shop that has a good reputations from people you know who have German cars or go by Google reviews.

Or have Hyundai do it with Hyundai oil. They will say you don't need to do it, and most will put up a fight that you don't need it, but they are clueless how dirty the rear diffs get so quickly because very few care to look how dirty the AWD clutchk pack break-in material gets with a measly 1/2 qt, of oil in it. It's up to you.

This is the DCT trans oil that includes the front diff that uses the same oil , as they use the same common oil and common sump. The "fill level" they will use for the DCT/front diff is located on the drivers side where the front CV joint comes out of trans case.. The fill hole is at the 3:00 position. This is GL-4 oil. You need 4 Qts. Check your manual before buying. I think it is 3.2 qts



The rear dif and transfer case use 75w-90 GL-5 gear oil. The transfer case is really a PTO shaft, it is a hair bigger then a 16oz Monster sport drink can and is accessed of the passenger side of the transmission. You will need 2.0qts total for both.


After you replace the transfer case you will not need to really replace that for another 50,000 miles plus. It is just a PTO case and nothing is really happening in there like the AWD diff . It is more important to change the rear diff.
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Note that the rear diff drain bolt was set with red threadlocker and is a b!tch to remove. Technically, your suppose to heat the bolt to 500 degrees and then use tools to remove. I did not know, so i cavemaned it off with 3 foot breaker bar and impact 24 mm socket. rounded off one edge bad, and scored the other. New bolt is pre treated with red threadlocker. i removed it with dremel and polishing wheel. When i change it again, i will use blue threadlocker.
take your time and make sure you have good contact with 6 point socket to remove. its too easy to screw this bolt up. The fill bolt does not have threadlocker on it from Hyundai.
replacement of both bolts and gaskets was ike 18 bux. check to see if they have it in stock before removing, if you beat up the bolt removing it, its gonna be frustrating to wait 3 days to get the new one in.
 

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Note that the rear diff drain bolt was set with red threadlocker and is a b!tch to remove. Technically, your suppose to heat the bolt to 500 degrees and then use tools to remove. I did not know, so i cavemaned it off with 3 foot breaker bar and impact 24 mm socket. rounded off one edge bad, and scored the other. New bolt is pre treated with red threadlocker. i removed it with dremel and polishing wheel. When i change it again, i will use blue threadlocker.
take your time and make sure you have good contact with 6 point socket to remove. its too easy to screw this bolt up. The fill bolt does not have threadlocker on it from Hyundai.
replacement of both bolts and gaskets was ike 18 bux. check to see if they have it in stock before removing, if you beat up the bolt removing it, its gonna be frustrating to wait 3 days to get the new one in.

Yeah, before I do any of these myself, I am going to have a few spares. Thankfully I have access to all sorts of removal tools, and will definitely employ the heat gun for removal.
 
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