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I don't know where I read this. I thought it was in this forum but I can't find the post. In any case, someone said that they changed the fluid in the differential at 500 miles and again at 8k. My Kona has 8k, so while I was at the dealer for something else, I asked them to change the fluid in both differentials. I said I read that it needed to be done to avoid a big expense later on. When I went to pick up the vehicle, the service manager asked me where I read this because he could not believe how dirty the oil was. He wanted to pass the info up the chain and make it a recommended service. Did I read that on this forum? Thanks!
 

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Yes, that was from me. I changed mine at 2,000 and it was somewhat dirty and then at 7,000 and it was somewhat clean. I am now using your dirty 8,000 and changing my suggestion to the best point of change is 5,000 miles for the first up change.

Also there is no front diff change that is separate. The front differential oil is the dual clutch's transmission oil that is combined as one unit. The dual clutch gear box is basically a manual transmission with synchros just like a regular manual trans, but it is shifted with solenoid actuators and run by a computer. Therefor it gets a 70w-75 GL4 oil vs the rear diff that gets a 75/80w-90 GL5 oil. The GL5 has sulphurs added in the add pack and it "has been said" to degrade synchros so the GL4 has none or a very small amount of sulphurs to meet the oil spec. Some people use GL5 oils in a GL4 speced trans, but I seen no light weight GL5 oil that comes close to 70w oil . So basically your front diff is getting 70w-70 weight oil.

There is a small transfer case that gets 75/80w-90 that when I drained mine was crystal clear clean, so I would not worry as much about the transfer case change out till a 25,000 drive train change or some other later interval change.

If you do your own driveline oil changing, Redline makes a dual clutch (DCT) oil that is far better then Hyundai's oil and it is in spec.

https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-lv-70w75w




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I did this service at 5900 miles when I changed the oil. I noticed that my fluid was pretty amber/clear colored still. However I did notice that when I wiped the end of the drain plug it had what looked like a lot of carbon/metallic material. Its most likely due to the clutch material settling. Not sure if the plug is magnetic or just due to it being on the bottom.
It took about half a quart of fluid back in.
I used Delo XDM

I got it for 5.99 locally so not bad and seems very close to the Shell Spirax that it came with.
I will just change it more often with that since its an easy service if you have a 24mm socket.
 

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Yes, that was from me. I changed mine at 2,000 and it was somewhat dirty and then at 7,000 and it was somewhat clean. I am now using your dirty 8,000 and changing my suggestion to the best point of change is 5,000 miles for the first up change.

Also there is no front diff change that is separate. The front differential oil is the dual clutch's transmission oil that is combined as one unit. The dual clutch gear box is basically a manual transmission with synchros just like a regular manual trans, but it is shifted with solenoid actuators and run by a computer. Therefor it gets a 70w-75 GL4 oil vs the rear diff that gets a 75/80w-90 GL5 oil. The GL5 has sulphurs added in the add pack and it "has been said" to degrade synchros so the GL4 has none or a very small amount of sulphurs to meet the oil spec. Some people use GL5 oils in a GL4 speced trans, but I seen no light weight GL5 oil that comes close to 70w oil . So basically your front diff is getting 70w-70 weight oil.

There is a small transfer case that gets 75/80w-90 that when I drained mine was crystal clear clean, so I would not worry as much about the transfer case change out till a 25,000 drive train change or some other later interval change.

If you do your own driveline oil changing, Redline makes a dual clutch (DCT) oil that is far better then Hyundai's oil and it is in spec.

https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-lv-70w75w




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Is this recommend to do on the lower trim models as well with the 2.0 non turbo engines?
 

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Yes, if you have a AWD 2.0 non turbo and we are talking abut the rear diff here. It is smart to get rid of the break-in clutch material there too.
 

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Just adding a data point...2018 AWD Limited, service at 8,000 miles, requested diff & trans fluid changes. Svc rep naturally thought I was crazy, but when the changed the rear diff fluid, it was "a bit dirty & discolored" to his surprise. They checked the front/DCT fluid but reported back that it looked pristine so I did not have them change it. Didn't look at it to confirm, but no reason to doubt them as they would have made an easy 90 bucks more off me for completing it.
 

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Yes, if you have a AWD 2.0 non turbo and we are talking abut the rear diff here. It is smart to get rid of the break-in clutch material there too.
What is the recommended rear diff fluid manufacturer and weight of the 2.0l AWD Rear Diff and volume of fluid needed. thx-Wayne
 

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What is the recommended rear diff fluid manufacturer and weight of the 2.0l AWD Rear Diff and volume of fluid needed. thx-Wayne
Stock is 75w-90 Shell Spirax. http://shop.sclubricants.com/pub/media/pds/shell/Shell-Spirax-S6-AXRME-75W-90-datasheet.pdf
Use a decent 75w-90 diff oil and you will be fine. One quart will do. I only got about 500ml out of mine since I did not warm it up beforehand by driving around. It should take no more than like 700ml when you change it but you can't overfill it as long as the car is on a flat surface.
I used Delo XDM.
 

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Looks like delo or spirax is either difficult to obtain or prohibitively expensive.
Mobil 1 or redline would be easier to get.
Thank you
 

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Rear diff is .6 of a Qt. or 1/2 liter.
Mainia, Is there a transfer case on the 2.0L non turbo AWD? I heard there is a PTO, not sure if that's the same thing, but a tech told me that there was no center diff, or front transfer case on the non turbo models. Thanks! - Wayne
 

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Yes there is, and PTO is a good way to describe it. It is small. When I drained mine it was crystal clear oil, so leaving it till say 30,000 miles would be no big deal. There is no center transfer case since all the AWD is done in the rear diff with clutches, a solenoid, and software.
 

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Yes there it, and PTO is a good way to describe it. It is small. When I drained mine it was crystal clear oil, so leaving it till say 30,000 miles would be no big deal. There is no center transfer case since all the AWD is done in the rear diff with clutches, a solenoid, and software.
Thanks!
 

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So, what is the consensus. 5k miles, 10k, etc. I've had my 2019 for almost a year, and i have 4,000 miles on it. Is it too early to drop in the redline? thanks, guys
 

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The fill bolt must have been tightened by Magilla Gorilla. Noted that there is not much surface area on this bolt to grasp onto, and the exhaust is in the way, which makes using a swivel head attachment on 1/2 in drive ratchet a necessity, or a long extension bar. Neither is a great solution, and i can see rounding the edges on this bolt if you don't have the socket placed completely on it. I just bought a new wrench and some longer sockets and will need to raise the car higher to get enough leverage on the harbor freight breaker bar to crack this. Must be the thread locker. Not an enjoyable experience on 88 degree day trying to maneuver the extension, socket, ratchet, exhaust pipe,etc to make sure i have a good fit on the socket. Would love to run my porter-cable on it but no way to get the tool near enough. The challenge continues tomorrow!
 
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