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Highway driving to Montreal I averaged about 6.0l/100km the entire trip on the highway, with a lot of hills in the mountains until I hit Ottawa. I was around 5.5-5.9 but that was being unrealistic with doing 80-100km/hr. Usually cruise at 90 on the mountains and 110 on highway in city and we still managed 6l to 6.5l/100km which is basically what you said in mpg.. so I don't doubt yours is right.

The transmission is.. a first for me. I mean, when I throw her into reverse, it seems like it takes a couple seconds for it to grab and want to reverse. I've put it into reverse and started giving some throttle and I sat there and then it started to go after a pop. Same as going reverse to drive, it takes a second or two. Maybe that's normal in DCT? Not sure. It's my first.

I've noticed from complete stops, in eco, it is really sluggish. Like.. unbearably sluggish and feels like it's being forced to do something it does not want to. Sport is peppier, but it still has a weird "off the launch" if you're light on the peddle. I can't really describe it. Is this just a DCT being a DCT?
Have you done any of the mods we've discussed in other threads? There are two minor mods that we've proven do help with the starting lag you've spoken of- K&N air filter and the turbo intercooler resonator delete pipe.

*K&N drop-in air filter- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU394WL
*Intercooler resonator delete pipe- https://www.sxthelement.com/Intercooler-Resonator-Delete-Pipe-p/00-01-102.htm
 

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Have you done any of the mods we've discussed in other threads? There are two minor mods that we've proven do help with the starting lag you've spoken of- K&N air filter and the turbo intercooler resonator delete pipe.

*K&N drop-in air filter- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU394WL
*Intercooler resonator delete pipe- https://www.sxthelement.com/Intercooler-Resonator-Delete-Pipe-p/00-01-102.htm
Filter I did not see. I was literally going through your garage link and going through all the stuff you've done and checking what's available to ship in Canada last night, actually :p

The resonator seems to be sold out every single time I drop by to the website. I'm not really a hands on person.. like I don't want to replace my fog lights myself, let alone the pipe, and I know Hyundai will say no so I need to find some reliable garage I can trust to do my stuff around here.
 

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My Garage

Filter I did not see. I was literally going through your garage link and going through all the stuff you've done and checking what's available to ship in Canada last night, actually :p

The resonator seems to be sold out every single time I drop by to the website. I'm not really a hands on person.. like I don't want to replace my fog lights myself, let alone the pipe, and I know Hyundai will say no so I need to find some reliable garage I can trust to do my stuff around here.
Cool! Yep...most of those items are easy installs, but I get the feeling you don't feel confident with wrenching on your new car and I don't blame you. If you find a nice owner-run shop you like, have all the parts done at once, you might get a better deal on labor.

Yeah, the resonator delete pipe is typically sold out, it seems just about every Kona and Veloster owner wants it replaced ASAP as it really does help a bit with the engine lag. The lower engine mount rubber was a little more effort, but every small mod has helped.

I won't go for exhaust mods, maybe...just maybe lower coil springs to lower the car about 1", but i'm about done with changes.
 

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Cool! Yep...most of those items are easy installs, but I get the feeling you don't feel confident with wrenching on your new car and I don't blame you. If you find a nice owner-run shop you like, have all the parts done at once, you might get a better deal on labor.

Yeah, the resonator delete pipe is typically sold out, it seems just about every Kona and Veloster owner wants it replaced ASAP as it really does help a bit with the engine lag. The lower engine mount rubber was a little more effort, but every small mod has helped.

I won't go for exhaust mods, maybe...just maybe lower coil springs to lower the car about 1", but i'm about done with changes.

What ....the lower trans mount effort? Almost none and it takes about 7 minutes. It cam be changed without taking taking the lower panel off. I did not want to dick around with the rubber change and grinding poly-urethane. getting an overly high durometer rubber then needed, or pay $200+ some of the custom ones cost. Just buy the one out of the 2019 Elantra GT N-Line for $85 delivered, and change it out in 7 to 10 minutes and I could of done it in a white tuxedo. :wink:


https://www.hyundaikonaforum.com/fo...antra-gt-fake-n-line-trans-mount-my-kona.html


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What ....the lower trans mount effort? Almost none and it takes about 7 minutes. It cam be changed without taking taking the lower panel off. I did not want to dick around with the rubber change and grinding poly-urethane. getting an overly high durometer rubber then needed, or pay $200+ some of the custom ones cost. Just buy the one out of the 2019 Elantra GT N-Line for $85 delivered, and change it out in 7 to 10 minutes and I could of done it in a white tuxedo. :wink:
https://www.hyundaikonaforum.com/fo...antra-gt-fake-n-line-trans-mount-my-kona.html
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Lol...Well, yeah if you bought the completed mount with the upgraded rubber. :wink: It honestly took me 30 minutes with the Dremel grinding, but weekend shop time with my Pop is always fun.
 
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Under load, I'm noticing more driveline slop when the temps are in the 90's.. rubber really softens up
in the heat.. This might be a good compromise to having poly.. don't want to upset the overall NVH that is designed in..

What ....the lower trans mount effort? Almost none and it takes about 7 minutes. It cam be changed without taking taking the lower panel off. I did not want to dick around with the rubber change and grinding poly-urethane. getting an overly high durometer rubber then needed, or pay $200+ some of the custom ones cost. Just buy the one out of the 2019 Elantra GT N-Line for $85 delivered, and change it out in 7 to 10 minutes and I could of done it in a white tuxedo. :wink:


https://www.hyundaikonaforum.com/fo...antra-gt-fake-n-line-trans-mount-my-kona.html


.
 

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That's why I stayed with Hyundai speced rubber with the Elantra GT N-Line mount. At 90 deg to 35 below, the N--Line mount was flawless. I have no idea what the poly's poly is even when they throw the Shore value out. I have a Shore gauge, if I every pull the bottom shield and the gauge fits between the aluminum I will take a measurement that I forgot to do when I received it.
 

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Let me actually address the question this time :)

Apologies for my general answer about the vehicle and not about the engine so I'll post a more direct answer:

I love this engine. It's fast, has lots of torque and gives me lots of power when I want and need it (getting on a highway short ramp etc.)

I have only experience one or two instances of the slight hesitation off a start. Once after at a full stop at a traffic light and once when I was moving less than 10 MPH. The rest of my ownership time (around 2500 miles now) the engine has been smooth shifting in almost every situation.

It doesn't get quite the gas mileage my other Kona was producing. The 2.0 L engine was putting out about 38 MPG ihe highway in cruise mode. This one is getting about 30-34 at this time. Maybe it will improve with more break in time?
 

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This is amazing! Any tips on how you drive? I'm AWD and getting about 29. I expect a little less bc of awd but would love more if possible.
This is probably hard to believe, but I've found that with my AWD i get about a 10 percent decrease in fuel economy when driving 70 instead of 65 and another 10 percent loss increasing to 75. Typically the numbers are something like 33 mpg (actual calculated) at 65; 30 mpg at 70; and 27 at 75. Another interesting note; these numbers were 10 percent worse when the car was new. It now has 18,000 miles on it and the mpg is the best ever. I will also add that this is cruising on the interstate with no stops to speak of. Actually, driving with the pedal at more or less constant rpm rather that using the cruise control, it gets better mileage, but that's a pain and I'm lazy. Like to sit back and relax.
 

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Hi, brand new to the forum. I’ve had my 2020 Kona Ultimate for 2 weeks now. Took it into dealer with DCT concerns,my ignorance and learning curve I hope. When pulling away from being stopped the car just clunks almost feels like I’ve been rear ended then starts to go. It’s very uncomfortable feeling and scary when it happens. Dealer found nothing wrong but did do a dct reset. I’m trying to apply the throttle carefully but still on occasion just jolts/clunks like a manual transmission feels when it stalls. Only 400 miles on the car. Is this normal for learning /break in period or is it me needing to adjust my driving style. ?
 

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Hi, brand new to the forum. I’ve had my 2020 Kona Ultimate for 2 weeks now. Took it into dealer with DCT concerns,my ignorance and learning curve I hope. When pulling away from being stopped the car just clunks almost feels like I’ve been rear ended then starts to go. It’s very uncomfortable feeling and scary when it happens. Dealer found nothing wrong but did do a dct reset. I’m trying to apply the throttle carefully but still on occasion just jolts/clunks like a manual transmission feels when it stalls. Only 400 miles on the car. Is this normal for learning /break in period or is it me needing to adjust my driving style. ?
From your description I don't think your dct is acting normal.
Applying the throttle carefully is like rewarding a new puppy for bad behavior + you shouldn't have to do it.
I suggest you start driving in a "normal" (for you) manner.
You'll get suggestions that you use sport mode all the time, again why should you have to.

If you can figure out how to duplicate your condition and schedule a demo ride with your service writer for a demo ride they'll figure it out. I scheduled a ride with our 1997 Catera service writer, he said "OOooho that buzz, we'll find it this time"
Till them "looking for codes is not going to fix it!"

Welcome and good luck, let us know.
 

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From your description I don't think your dct is acting normal.
Applying the throttle carefully is like rewarding a new puppy for bad behavior + you shouldn't have to do it.
I suggest you start driving in a "normal" (for you) manner.
You'll get suggestions that you use sport mode all the time, again why should you have to.

If you can figure out how to duplicate your condition and schedule a demo ride with your service writer for a demo ride they'll figure it out. I scheduled a ride with our 1997 Catera service writer, he said "OOooho that buzz, we'll find it this time"
Till them "looking for codes is not going to fix it!"

Welcome and good luck, let us know.
Thank you for the quick response. I’ll try to see if it gets better over the breaking period. If not then back to the dealer.
 

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The DCT is my favorite part of driving a Kona Limited FWD, and the engine is the second.

Certain posters here claim it helps to drive the DCT if you have experience with manual, (remember that clutch pedal !) transmissions.

That is pure bull. My wife couldn't drive a 5-speed manual to save her own life, but she prefers the Kona over the Santa Fe Sport anytime.
I know this a year later. I've been driving a stick my whole life, this is my first automatic--what am I supposed to be doing differently than just driving it/
 

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mine hesitates a bit when it's cold(engine temp and weather outside) and just getting into gear. There seems to be a small accelerator pedal deadzone(for lack of a better term) where the car doesn't know what it wants to do so it just kinda jerks a bit. usually i find it when i'm just driving gingerly
 

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For those with the 1.6 DCT your opinion please? It's great, It sucks, or It's just OK. Thanks ! 😄
Mostly very smooth and unremarkable. The only time it doesn't work well is when shifting from reverse to drive after backing up, when the car is cold. It shudders like it's going to break apart. Otherwise, I never even notice it shifting.
 

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For those with the 1.6 DCT your opinion please? It's great, It sucks, or It's just OK. Thanks ! 😄
Hyundai is not the first company to experience issues with a dry clutch dct. Ford put a dct in their Focus using a dry clutch and many owners reported a range of problems. Getrag made the transmission but it was usually used with a wet clutch and as such, did not experience problems. Ford spec'D a dry clutch (probably to save $ and weight) and the seals leaked oil onto the clutch disks. Once a dry clutch gets oil on it, nothing good happens and it.must be replaced.
 
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