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I am about to install a dash cam into the Kona and am looking for answers to questions.
I want parking mode available so I need a constant power as well as a power supply switched with ACC.
One option is to pull the A pillar trim and feed the wire avoiding the airbags. Another option would be to piggyback the switched ACC power feed that supplies the Homelink Mirror. For a constant, it seems there isn't one in the mirror harness. I may be able to connect to the interior light circuit.

What other suggestions for alternatives?

If I tap into the wiring for the mirror, should I place an inline fuse between the connection point and the camera?

Which method is the most fool-proof ( yes, I may be a fool!).

TIA
 

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2018 Kona Highlander 1.6T
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I am about to install a dash cam into the Kona and am looking for answers to questions.
I want parking mode available so I need a constant power as well as a power supply switched with ACC.
One option is to pull the A pillar trim and feed the wire avoiding the airbags. Another option would be to piggyback the switched ACC power feed that supplies the Homelink Mirror. For a constant, it seems there isn't one in the mirror harness. I may be able to connect to the interior light circuit.

What other suggestions for alternatives?

If I tap into the wiring for the mirror, should I place an inline fuse between the connection point and the camera?

Which method is the most fool-proof ( yes, I may be a fool!).

TIA
My dashcam has no parking mode and is powered by a usb power plug so I didn't have the power connection issues you face, however I still had to run the wire from the power receptacle. I tucked my my power wire up and along the base of the dash, up the forward edge of the front door (pull the rubber dust seal away, pop the wires in and slip the dust seal back into place), then around the base of the A pillar at the dash, and up the A pillar to the roof lining. I didn't remove the A pillar trim but pushed the wire into the space between the window glass and the edge of the trim. From there I tucked the wire into the roof lining along to the camera location in the centre of the screen, going under the plastic trim at the base of mirror and finally to the camera.

As to your questions re powering the unit, both 'always on' power and switched power, I think your best bet is to source both at the fuse box. Have a squiz at the manual or the inside of the fuse box cover to identify which fuses power things that are always on, like say, interior lights, and only on when switched. Then use a piggy back fuse which generally include a second fuse for your new camera power wires.

Best of luck with it.
 

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My dashcam has no parking mode and is powered by a usb power plug so I didn't have the power connection issues you face, however I still had to run the wire from the power receptacle. I tucked my my power wire up and along the base of the dash, up the forward edge of the front door (pull the rubber dust seal away, pop the wires in and slip the dust seal back into place), then around the base of the A pillar at the dash, and up the A pillar to the roof lining. I didn't remove the A pillar trim but pushed the wire into the space between the window glass and the edge of the trim. From there I tucked the wire into the roof lining along to the camera location in the centre of the screen, going under the plastic trim at the base of mirror and finally to the camera.

As to your questions re powering the unit, both 'always on' power and switched power, I think your best bet is to source both at the fuse box. Have a squiz at the manual or the inside of the fuse box cover to identify which fuses power things that are always on, like say, interior lights, and only on when switched. Then use a piggy back fuse which generally include a second fuse for your new camera power wires.

Best of luck with it.
I just did this on my 22. There is a spare " hot only with key on" fuse in the drivers side fuse box. That is the one I used
 
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