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So bummed. I’ve had my 2019 kona with 30,700 miles for 6 weeks. Check engine light came on and oil level was very low. I put in more oil and light is still on. I bought it certified from a dealer, but communicated with the previous owner who said, make sure you ad oil every 2000 miles! I’ve driven the car 570 miles in two months. Anyone else have a similar oil issue?
 

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So bummed. I’ve had my 2019 kona with 30,700 miles for 6 weeks. Check engine light came on and oil level was very low. I put in more oil and light is still on. I bought it certified from a dealer, but communicated with the previous owner who said, make sure you ad oil every 2000 miles! I’ve driven the car 570 miles in two months. Anyone else have a similar oil issue?
First thing to do is replace the PVC valve. You bought this car used, do have any documentation on how many times the car had and oil change and if it was conventional or synthetic?

How many Qts was it low?

Was this car originally a leased car?

You were in contact with the original owner, but you can not necessarily believe what he tells you. What was his story on the car? Did he take it to the dealer for oil changes?

Next question, Do you or can you, change your own oil and filter with full confidence on what you are doing,? Or have you always let other people do this for you?

What I am getting at is if this car was run with conventional oil and the owner was a penny pincher and said screw the guy who owns the car after me and never changed the oil and did short trips, he could of sludged up the rings. Then you "can" have an oil burner. Take your cell phone light and flash it inside the valve cover, look all around from different angles, do you see clean aluminum, do you see a light ting of brown, or dark brown?

See the linked picture, notice the cylinder head in the back ground. Does yours have the light ting of brown like this ones on the cap that hold the cams in or is the color darker like the foreground valve cover and dark like the majority of the underside of valve cover? Better yet, see the top of the valve cover, were the half moon radius cut is, that is the start of sludge, it is a hair darker then the center valve cover. Then the light varnish is at the lower part of the valve cover. Does most of what you see while looking inside your valve cover oil fill hole look like the lighter color though out?



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First thing to do is replace the PVC valve. You bought this car used, do have any documentation on how many times the car had and oil change and if it was conventional or synthetic?

How many Qts was it low?

Was this car originally a leased car?

You were in contact with the original owner, but you can not necessarily believe what he tells you. What was his story on the car? Did he take it to the dealer for oil changes?

Next question, Do you or can you, change your own oil and filter with full confidence on what you are doing,? Or have you always let other people do this for you?

What I am getting at is if this car was run with conventional oil and the owner was a penny pincher and said screw the guy who owns the car after me and never changed the oil and did short trips, he could of sludged up the rings. Then you "can" have an oil burner. Take your cell phone light and flash it inside the valve cover, look all around from different angles, do you see clean aluminum, do you see a light ting of brown, or dark brown?

See the linked picture, notice the cylinder head in the back ground. Does yours have the light ting of brown like this ones on the cap that hold the cams in or is the color darker like the foreground valve cover and dark like the majority of the underside of valve cover? Better yet, see the top of the valve cover, were the half moon radius cut is, that is the start of sludge, it is a hair darker then the center valve cover. Then the light varnish is at the lower part of the valve cover. Does most of what you see while looking inside your valve cover oil fill hole look like the lighter color though out?



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Thanks for your thoughtful response. My mechanical abilities are very limited, I can add and did add a quart of oil, but that’s the extent of it. Weird, though. One quart took the line from low to full.
The Car-fax report showed oil changes starting at 24,000 miles, then 3 others to follow roughly 2000 miles apart, which is suspicious in retrospect. The previous owner left stuff in the glove compartment so that’s how I was able to contact her and I trust what she said. A young woman and I think it was her first car. I should have not problem with the warranty though when I bring it in on Monday (I hope). Only drove 570 miles in 6 weeks!
 

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Get a can of SeaFoam. Put 4 ounces in the Oil. Top up the Oil to the Full Line. Drive it a couple hundred miles. Change the Oil and Filter. Seafoam is to help clean sludge out of the engine. I do it with my own Cars, Motorcycles.
 

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As far as the Engine Light. Could just be the Gas Cap. Evap Code P0452. Light will come on if the Gas Cap is off with the engine running (Refueling for example). How is the engine running??
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As far as the Engine Light. Could just be the Gas Cap. Evap Code P0452. Light will come on if the Gas Cap is off with the engine running (Refueling for example). How is the engine running??
Engine is running ok, but still a noticeable drop in oil level over 500 miles
 

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As far as the Engine Light. Could just be the Gas Cap. Evap Code P0452. Light will come on if the Gas Cap is off with the engine running (Refueling for example). How is the engine running??
Engine is running ok, but still a noticeable drop in oil level over 500 miles
Did you check the oil while you were buying? Maybe it was low when you drove it off the lot.
Engine should be cold when you check the oil.
 

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External Leak? Maybe the engine is consuming it. Young woman probably waited for the Light to come on. Or the engine was knocking. When I worked at Sears Auto, Had a Kia Sorento?? Came in the shop. 1st Oil change. Been a couple of years. Think it had 15k on the factory filter. Rental Car.
Check oil when Cold. On Level Surface.
 

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Did you check the oil while you were buying? Maybe it was low when you drove it off the lot.
Engine should be cold when you check the oil.
I didn’t check the oil before I drove it off the lot.CarFax report showed it was changed a week earlier. I probably should have. Thanks
 

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I didn’t check the oil before I drove it off the lot.CarFax report showed it was changed a week earlier. I probably should have. Thanks
Good advice on used vehicles, Trust is fine, but you really have to verify what your told, if possible, via personal inspection, or if it's not your thing to be mechanically orientated, pay somone to independently inspect it for you. Might cost you a hundred dollars or so, but it will be the best hundred dollars you ever spend, IMO.
 

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I learned this lesson the hard way.
We bought a CPO BMW several years ago, sure glad I always change the oil on a new to me car as soon as we get home.
Did you check the oil while you were buying? Maybe it was low when you drove it off the lot.
Engine should be cold when you check the oil.
I didn’t check the oil before I drove it off the lot.CarFax report showed it was changed a week earlier. I probably should have. Thanks
Knowing that BMWs hold 7 qts that would not fit in my catch pan.

I only drained about 4 qts and put them in two 2 liter coke bottles then started draining again.
Learned another lesson that day (y) do not leave the drain pan unattended :eek: when I got back OIL everwhere! I suspected (yea sure) the I d o t forgot he hadn't drained the old oil before adding 7 new qts.
Really surprised me that it did no damage.
 

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I learned this lesson the hard way.
We bought a CPO BMW several years ago, sure glad I always change the oil on a new to me car as soon as we get home.



Knowing that BMWs hold 7 qts that would not fit in my catch pan.

I only drained about 4 qts and put them in two 2 liter coke bottles then started draining again.
Learned another lesson that day (y) do not leave the drain pan unattended :eek: when I got back OIL everwhere! I suspected (yea sure) the I d o t forgot he hadn't drained the old oil before adding 7 new qts.
Really surprised me that it did no damage.
Remember the Fords with 2 Drain Plugs?? How many people thought they could just remove the Lower Plug. Not knowing that there was a hump in the pan.
 
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Thanks for your thoughtful response. My mechanical abilities are very limited, I can add and did add a quart of oil, but that’s the extent of it. Weird, though. One quart took the line from low to full.
The Car-fax report showed oil changes starting at 24,000 miles, then 3 others to follow roughly 2000 miles apart, which is suspicious in retrospect. The previous owner left stuff in the glove compartment so that’s how I was able to contact her and I trust what she said. A young woman and I think it was her first car. I should have not problem with the warranty though when I bring it in on Monday (I hope). Only drove 570 miles in 6 weeks!
Thinking if the previous owner told the dealer about the oil consumption problem. If so, they have an obligation to tell you everything they know about the car. You should check with the young lady and see what she says. If so, then see if you can get her to sign a document declaring it. You can then ask the dealer if they knew. etc, etc, etc.
All of this is going to be time and effort. Engine oil analysis, setting up appointment with dealer to verify oil loss, repairs, lots of misery for a 2 yr old car that may have been poorly maintained or has engine defect. My 2019 Kona doesn't burn oil but i only have 6700 miles on it. If it were me, I would cut my loss and long agony of misery ahead, and look to dump it without taking too large a loss. Other choice is to keep it till 60k, then dump it, remembering to check the oil level constantly. Too much effort for me. Good Luck!
 

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I have worked for Dealerships in the past. If I remember correctly this is how it played out. Change the Oil and Filter. Make sure it was on the Full Line. Note the Mileage. Customer would bring the car back every so often. Note the Mileage and Oil Level. I worked as a Mechanic. So I don't know What was being done in the Office. They were reporting to the Factory Engineers. If the Engine was Leaking, You would see a spot. If it was Burning, Check Condition of the Plugs.

The Engine Light. Did they look into it??
 

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The "oil light" could just indicate that the car thinks an oil change is due, so it is not driven by how low the oil is. Nor can you expect it to go out when you refill to the mark.
If you want to be sure the li9ght is not a malfunction indicator of some sort, you can have someone like AutoZone read out your OBDII codes(s) .

On Hyundai-s, you have to manually reset the MIL (maintenance required light) after you change the oil.
The oil change interval monitor just goes by miles driven since you last rest the MIL. It is disturbing that it burns oil at a noticeable rate. I would use a highly detergent oil and change the oil soon as possible. Yes, on these cars, with their relatively small oil capacity, the difference between the low and high marks is about 1 quart.
 
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