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WARNING: DO NOT WORK ON ELECTRONICS OF ANY VEHICLE WITHOUT FIRST DISCONNECTING THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL.

Alright guys so I just finished the sound system in the Kona, and let me tell you it was pretty intense. Little background, I have done systems in the past but not having a wiring diagram, proper output color schematics or, a pigtail cable made everything a lot difficult, but I did it so that as a community those who want to upgrade their system can! I will list all the items I used as well as the process in which I did them step-by-step. Sorry for not including full pictures, it was already too long gone.

So first, I started by dissembling the car. It was extremely easy everything is basic clips, and a screw here or there. The best way to remove the back seats is to unscrew the back bolts with a 1/4 ratchet then slide out the main cushion, then simply unscrew the hook bolt in the middle of the 2 seat will just come out with a good yank. You may have some trouble with the circle clasp, but i just unscrewed the bolt, lifted the clasp, pulled the seats and they slid right out. From there I simply unbolted the seat belts and pushed them to the side. For all the door trim, and to access the internal side panels I just used a panel popper and some good ol sweat.
From there I took off the rear door panels to access the speaker wires to acquire a source for tapping. For these I only needed a flathead, and a philips head bit in a drill. Start by removing the c pillar with a panel popper, then remove the door screw underneath the hideaway tab, and then just panel pop the clips around the door and pull up. Make sure to unplug the door handle module, and the electronic module for the window.

I also changed the speakers while I was in there, it’s standard 6.5 inch speakers which I used these adapters, for the doors ) 2 Pair 6.5" 6.75" Car Stereo Speaker Install Plate Mounts for some Kia Hyundai | eBay ), I did use adapters for the standard wires, but they initially did not fit, i had to sand them down in-order to fit the stock plug so I would suggest just a Metra wire pair for Hyundai 2016+ models.

For the left rears the colors are yellow +, black -
For the right rears the colors are brown +, white -

I repeated on the right side, but I needed to splice in both positive and negative wires to pull into the cabin to supply a source, so how i did that is by using a grommet located underneath the push through because I found out that it’s not a standard pass through. It’s actually a connector plug. So I simply used the grommet to pass through then pulled it through the door to tap the speaker wires.

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I used flat wires to prevent any kinking, when the door closes or opens. These i simply ran straight to the back for later on.

After changing and wiring the source wires I worked my way to the front to install the main power wires. I wired the system with 4g all copper ( KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit ).

This was the most difficult part because trying to get through the firewall was a chore. The best way I found this was to get a huge zip tie (32inch from homedepot 20 for 8$) and tape the power wire to it with electrical tape and just force it through the inside. On the outside you will need to remove the battery tie down, battery, and ecu which i just unbolted and pushed it out of the way to get to the pass through. You will need to remove the 10mm bolts on the pass through but once its able to wiggle around you can get the zip tie through. Pull the power cable through and continue. I wires up the fuse and after reconnecting everything wired in the power wire to the top tap of the positive terminal.

Next I moved on to tapping the wires from the subwoofer, this was super easy. Basically, once you unplug the subwoofer you can tap 2 of the 4 wires the ones I tapped were the purple and yellow wires. The tapped wires I ran to the back for later.

At this time I also tapped in the ignition fuse using ( Gebildet 4pcs 12V 24V... Amazon.com: Gebildet 4pcs 12V 24V Add-a-Circuit Micro2 Fuse Tap, Piggy Back Blade Fuse Holder with Wire Harness, 6 pcs Micro 2 Fuse (5A 10A 15A) and Fuse Puller: Car Electronics ) to make sure that that the remote wire is available for the inline converter and amp

Now since I had all the wires tapped and the battery wire set, i started to wire up the amplifier ( Audiotek At850.5 5 Channels Class Ab 2 Ohm Stable 3200W Stereo Power Car Amplifier W/Bass Control Amazon.com: Audiotek At850.5 5 Channels Class Ab 2 Ohm Stable 3200W Stereo Power Car Amplifier W/Bass Control ) and inline converter ( AudioControl LC7i 6 Channel Active Line Out Hi/Lo Converter+Bass Processor DSP 855814005938 | eBay )

Initially I tried with out using the inline converter but the stock amp was pushing back way too much distortion that the 5-channel couldn’t handle.

For the ground I used the 4th (last one to the right) rear seat bolt because it has a stock bolt holder on top so I just primed the area with some sandpaper for better contact and bolted it in.

Both the power and ground wire now were ready to attach to distribution blocks ( VonSom 4 Way Power Distribution... Amazon.com: VonSom 4 Way Power Distribution Block, 1x 0/2/4 AWG Gauge in / 4X 4/8/10 Gauge Out Amp Power Distribution Ground Distributor Connecting Block for Car Amplifier Audio Splitter 2 Pack: Electronics)
For this I simply just used a ferrel to attach a 14g wire to both the power and ground to add into the LC7i and amp at the same time.

With the speaker wires the lc7i uses the source wires and converts them into rcas for the amp so i just used a ferrel tool ( Ferrule Crimping Tool Kit - Sopoby Ferrule Crimper Plier (AWG 28-7) w/ 1800pcs Wire Ferrules Kit Wire Ends Terminals(AWG 22-8) Ferrule Crimping Tool Kit - Sopoby Ferrule Crimper Plier (AWG 28-7) w/ 1800pcs Wire Ferrules Kit Wire Ends Terminals(AWG 22-8) - - Amazon.com ) to keep everything clean and organized luckily the LC7i has a built in remote pass through so plugging the remote strictly to that provides a remote out with having to splice in another remote wire.

Then you simply can wire everything in the correct order, and you will be able to have your RCA outputs for both your channel 1 and channel 5. You could do a full channel (Highs, mids, and lows) but I didnt want to do it because I was just adding in 2 6x9s to the back. So once wired it should look like this.

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Once this way complete I just hooked up my remote to my 5 channel thanks to the lc7i output and bridged my 6x9s (pioneer) to the front (channel 1) output. Then connected my sub ( 10inch Kicker Comp) as well. Once completed i just double checked my wiring, and began to tune the system. The LC7I completely eliminated all hissing and distortion and I only tuned it to a 3rd of the output. I used the amp for the rest.

FAIR WARNING. The amplifier says its 3600w but is only rated for 1600w, whack but it pushes pretty good power. Also the bass knob it comes with is garbage I would not recommend using it if interested go through audio control I have used one of theirs before and it worked extremely well.

This is the final schematic that i drew up to match the install sorry for the sloppiness.
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This allowed me to bypass the stock Infinity System while still maintaining all functions and control of my head unit. It did not come out the prettiest but it works wonders!

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Well, as a long time stereo installer, not a fan, per say, Not all bad, not all good. The amp is garbage. Its not even CEA rated, which is iffy at best on rated power, and even worse for signal processing. For a decent amp on a budget i would have looked at Power Acoustik RZ4-1200D, its a 4 channel 100 watt rms per channel, that is physically tiny @ 4-3/4"W x 9"L x 1-1/3"H.
Many of the Razor series amps are tiny, you could fit several on the package tray if you wanted, which im against, as your just inviting thieves.

It appears you have a base model car, so you shouldn't even have the OE Infinity/Clarion system found only on the top tier models, in most countries. If you do for some reason have the Infinity system, why not just get signal from the amp under the passenger seat? This would be a clean and hidden way to get signal, plus a readily available power wire and ground point, and would eliminate a possibly ground loop. Also then you would just be tucking your RCA cables into the trim, and not a whole bunch of wires.

Are you running a big 3 upgrade?
Did you use an oscilloscope or a mutlimeter to set your gains?
I hope your power and signal wires are routed on opposite sides of the vehicle.
personally not a fan of running through the oe firewall grommet, i would have used either a firewall grommet, or an electrical bulkhead passthrough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, as a long time stereo installer, not a fan, per say, Not all bad, not all good. The amp is garbage. Its not even CEA rated, which is iffy at best on rated power, and even worse for signal processing. For a decent amp on a budget i would have looked at Power Acoustik RZ4-1200D, its a 4 channel 100 watt rms per channel, that is physically tiny @ 4-3/4"W x 9"L x 1-1/3"H.
Many of the Razor series amps are tiny, you could fit several on the package tray if you wanted, which im against, as your just inviting thieves.

It appears you have a base model car, so you shouldn't even have the OE Infinity/Clarion system found only on the top tier models, in most countries. If you do for some reason have the Infinity system, why not just get signal from the amp under the passenger seat? This would be a clean and hidden way to get signal, plus a readily available power wire and ground point, and would eliminate a possibly ground loop. Also then you would just be tucking your RCA cables into the trim, and not a whole bunch of wires.

Are you running a big 3 upgrade?
Did you use an oscilloscope or a mutlimeter to set your gains?
I hope your power and signal wires are routed on opposite sides of the vehicle.
personally not a fan of running through the oe firewall grommet, i would have used either a firewall grommet, or an electrical bulkhead passthrough.
Yeah i do agree this amp is pretty garbage haha. I was actually looking at different 5-channel amps to do both the install with but this one was cheap and only running a total of 1000watts between the speakers and bass it works fine. I did run my power and signal completely opposite of the vehicle and yes i did use a multimeter for all gain and signal inputs to make sure it doesn’t cause distortion. I have the Night Edition so it does come with the Infinity System and I didn’t want to tap the original amp just in case I want to get rid of the car later down the line it would be easier just to take out all the wiring than have to re-splice the amp wires. I wish they sold a pigtail that is compatible with the amp, unfortunately not so this was the easiest. Plus, the only problem with tapping the original amp would be it would not be enough power to both power the the LC7i and the amplifier. And no I haven’t upgraded the alternator however I did upgrade the grounds using all 2gauge and I upgraded the battery as well. Just incase, I do want to go bigger with the bass system.
 
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