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When we talk about percentage rating, the percentage does not say much without the micron rating that goes along with it. 93% at 40 microns is a poor filter. 93% at 20 microns is a pretty good filter.

BTW 5w20 IMO is sub-optimal for a hard-working small Turbo engine. The whole "thin oil" thing is more about CAFE/fuel economy than optimizing engine protection.
 

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A filter replaced at every oil change is better than any "premium"/"top of the line"/"top tier" whatever the expression for preferred filters everyone has that you keep on for up to (what you said?) 10,000 miles.
Why? I fail to see the truth in that statement. A high quality filter that is kept on for less miles than it is rated for, filters at its designed (high) rate for the entire time you keep it.
The synth media filters as I recall are rated at 20K mile OCI. So 10K mile is safe, with plenty of margin.

A filter with "lesser" specs does the same per its own (poor) specs. What is the proposed advantage of changing the filter out before its designed
life expectancy?

It is not strictly money. it is also less hassle to just change the oil. I simply do not see a rational reason to change out a high quality filter way before its designed
life expectancy expires. If you have a rational argument please share it!
 

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BTW 5w20 IMO is sub-optimal for a hard-working small Turbo engine. The whole "thin oil" thing is more about CAFE/fuel economy than optimizing engine protection.
Yes, and you say that probably on the same basis that made me say "a filter replaced at every oil change is better than" what you preach... I fail to see the truth in your statement as well.
What is it, YOUR opinion is the only "truth"?
The manual does not tell you to use 5W-20 in your turbo engine. Why do you even bring it up?
Have fun with the filters rambling, sorry for stirring you up. you really have durable synthetic membrane when it comes to this subject, don't you? W O W
 

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OK I thought I presented a rational argument. No disrespect was intended, I like anybody, could be wrong. So far you presented a strongly felt conviction,
but without any explanation why you think this. I respect that but I am interested in your point, and I could surely be convinced otherwise, and I see no
reason to get passionate or annoyed about the topic and I am neither.
 

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Is anyone aware of a Longer filter that works on the 2.0??
 

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Now before anyone gets all don't you read old posts. I Have spent considerable time reading the internet on this subject and it can be interpreted every which way. As an engineer in the hydraulic equipment industry, I know a fair bit about oil filtration. When the wrong choice can cost in the tens of thousands of dollars, you educate yourself on what is needed. The major issue here is the lack of reliable data. Here is the question I pose; What is the minimum micron filtration that Hyundai requires, and what is the pressure required to trigger the filter to bypass. What I want is a filter that will capture better than that micron spec and continue to flow well enough to not bypass in a single OCI. I plan to change at 3500m intervals, because turbos torture motor oil and fresh oil is king. Now there are endless threads that are nothing but pissing matches, I want real data, someone has had managed to get some at some time, and I can't find it and I know what it would take to test all the options (aint nobody got that kind of time).

Thanks,
 

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Now before anyone gets all don't you read old posts. I Have spent considerable time reading the internet on this subject and it can be interpreted every which way. As an engineer in the hydraulic equipment industry, I know a fair bit about oil filtration. When the wrong choice can cost in the tens of thousands of dollars, you educate yourself on what is needed. The major issue here is the lack of reliable data. Here is the question I pose; What is the minimum micron filtration that Hyundai requires, and what is the pressure required to trigger the filter to bypass. What I want is a filter that will capture better than that micron spec and continue to flow well enough to not bypass in a single OCI. I plan to change at 3500m intervals, because turbos torture motor oil and fresh oil is king. Now there are endless threads that are nothing but pissing matches, I want real data, someone has had managed to get some at some time, and I can't find it and I know what it would take to test all the options (aint nobody got that kind of time).

Thanks,
I ran/run Fram Ultras, but switched over to Fram Titanium as I like the larger base holes. I don't think with your job you would equate a Fram Ultra to crap orange can Fram, two different animals. I buy 6 at a time and I get a price that matches walmart Ultras. The OEM Hyundai filters, while built good are not that good at filtering as they reduce their filtering when they increase oil pressure trying to fix Hyundai's bad choice of piston metallurgy that has been a 4.5 billion dollar issue for Hyundai the last 10 years. Piston and bearing galling. Example :: My wife had a 2013 Elantra GT gall up the pistons with 14,000 on the motor with Mobil 1 use. You know you have an issue when you get the classic Hyundai Tick of Death. Pistons gall up, when your filter goes into bypass, the aluminum slurry hits the lifters and they can't stay pumped up and you get the classic Tick of Death. All late model Hyundai/Kia turbos use hypereutectic pistons so they don't gall up. We are lucky, the 1.6T is one of Hyundai's better engines. If you don't find a cracked piston skirt and find it in the bottom of your oil pan by 3,000 miles you should have a long running motor.

I use to run Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 but I have since changed over to Redline Performance Euro (Ester) 5w-30. I want the polarity of Ester to help keep oil on the skirts on startup and many days I drive to work I am driving around the parking lot to cool down the hot turbo and "tinging" exhaust from spirited use. The Redline gives me a wider window in not coking up my turbo. You always have the option to run a Donaldson. I myself wanted to run a kidney loop, but if anything happens, Hyundai will blame the kidney loop right out of the gate.

You will be interested in this too I bet. We are waiting for his next 2 vids as he has covid now. Look at his 2 other vids that he started this long waiting processes. At one point the waiting will be over I hope.

 

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ive read from a couple places that the oem oil filter is not good, im using an oem hyundai oil filter now, but im looking to replace it.
whats the best one you guys are using? thanks
Hyundai Oil Filter is made by the same company that owns Wix, Purolator, And a few others. Mann Hummel.

My 2018 Harley 1200. Factory OF is Rated 40 Microns. I have been using Bosch Premium Rated for 20 Microns. My Filter choice for the Kona is a Bosch DP 3312. When I can get one. Otherwise K&N or Mobil 1. Pure Boss is pretty good as well
 

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A filter has rated dirt holding capacity usually given in grams. If you do not exceed this, the filter continues to do its job without any decrease in filtering efficiency.
The manufacturers determine this (and the mileage rating) by running a filter while measuring the flow rate. When the flow rate starts dropping, they measure the filter mass, compare it to the "virgin" filter's mass and call the difference the dirt holding capacity.

The filter media has permeable "holes" in it. The filtering efficiency depends on the size of these holes. The longevity depends on the number of these holes. Synthetic media has smaller holes and a lot more of them than the traditional cellulose ( ie paper) media.

The only reason to replace a filter: If it holds so much dirt, that the flow rate starts dropping. (ie.e most of the holes I mentioned are plugged with dirt) .
This does not happen until you get close to the rated dirt holding capacity. When that happens, the filter starts bypassing more frequently than an unclogged filter would . This is the rational basis for replacing a filter: It is the flow rate. Having said that, there is no harm in replacing a filter early, it is just money.

It is not like the filtering capacity is gradually decreases in some mysterious way.

As long as the flow rate remains OK, the filter continues working as good as new. BTW I find the arguments along the lines of "I have followed such such such practice and I never had an engine problem" not very useful, because modern engines tend to be resilient, and they tend to not have obvious problems regardless how you maintain them (or don't). Even with poor maintenance a modern engine may last you a 100K miles.
I had a 2017 Nissan Rogue in the shop last week. Had to remove Sludge from the Fill Opening. Interestingly the Cheap Quick Lube filter wasn't clogged. Years ago, My brother had a 88 Grand Am with Quad 4. Back when Allied Signal owned Fram. Changed the oil and filter. Castrol GTX and Fram(Orange). Filter Clogged up and lost Pressure.
 

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ive read from a couple places that the oem oil filter is not good, im using an oem hyundai oil filter now, but im looking to replace it.
whats the best one you guys are using? thanks
 
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