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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ive read from a couple places that the oem oil filter is not good, im using an oem hyundai oil filter now, but im looking to replace it.
whats the best one you guys are using? thanks
 

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ive read from a couple places that the oem oil filter is not good, im using an oem hyundai oil filter now, but im looking to replace it.
whats the best one you guys are using? thanks
yeah.. there’s much to read on the internet.. but not much of it is true.. Since Hyundai is backing the warranty, then I wouldn’t be too worried about using an OEM filter. Im sure there are better filters to be had, but I Wouldn’t be too concerned about the OEM filter quality..
 

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Agreed re: using a Hyundai filter. As far as non-OEM, I've had decades of success using WIX filters in ALL types of vehicles...
 

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I personally use Bosch Oil Filters. Even on my Harley.
 

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Hyundai OEM filters are not horrible, but arguably there are better filters available. Hyundai dealers will probably loudly scream when confronted with this assertion,
speaking in marketing terms and but without discussing specs.

Mobil 1, and the high end, fully synthetic media Frams are both better IMO, based on published specs and what we know about construction. If a manufacturer refuses to publish specs, that is telling by itself. I tend to use Mobil 1 or fram UG (I think). I have nothing against Bosch.
The key metrics are: Dirt holding capacity in grams and the actual filtration efficiency % at different particle sizes. The construction details, based on filter cut-open analysis also matter.
The former has a lot to do with the length of Oils change Interval possible. The bypass valve pressure set also matters, although we can assume that if a major brand filter is recommended for an application, the manufacturer has dialed that in correctly

The best way to approach filters is by looking at construction details (plenty of videos available on youtube), published specs, and filter media. Semi synthetic or synthetic media tends to be better than paper. Tidy and precise construction involving metals ( like metal inner tubes and endcaps, clean and neat glue job, no apparent gaps in the seams) go a long way. Oh and, pay attention how the old filter looks when you swap it out. Distortion and collapse of the filter media, gaps in the seams that opened up are all warning signs that should rule out that particular brand.

When people say "I use XXX brand and I had good luck with it". I am struggling with deciphering what that means exactly.

Ultimately, the job of the filter is taking small abrasive particles out of the motor oil, without clogging up and "bypassing" much. As to how well it does that, could be evaluated by monitoring engine wear using one brand filter and comparing it to a test using the different brand.
But, AFAIK there are no controlled long term experiments available to establish how long an engine would last by using one filter brand, vs using another. So a lot of the discussion tends to focus on subjective statements that boil down to "I feel good about xxx brand of filter, based on my random subjective criteria". I find that mostly not helpful.

My approach is: Ignore marketing assertions not backed by specs. pick a filter that seems well constructed, uses superior filter media, and has (published) excellent filtering specs, down to at least
20 micron particle size. Specs that give you filtration % down to 40 microns already are not very telling,
My first choice for Hyundai vehicles is the Fram highest end line available for the model. This typically end up being the UG ( UltraGuard fully synthetic) line.

Fram gets a bad rep for their budget filters, and I would not recommend those, but their high end is an entirely different story.

Boutique Oil and Filters tend to be good, but I cannot bring myself to pay the premium. I do not feel a 2-3x price multiplier buys me enough value to justify it.

But that is a different discussion. :)
 

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When people say "I use XXX brand and I had good luck with it". I am struggling with deciphering what that means exactly.
No need to struggle. What that means exactly, at least in my experience, is that I've used WIX filters (not exclusively, but more often than not)
in Corvettes, Mazdas, BMWs, Hondas, Mustangs, Subarus, etc., etc. over the past few decades along with full-synthetic oil changes every
5000 miles and have never had one oil-related mechanical problem. When a WIX swap isn't available, I've also used Mobile 1 filters with the
same degree of success.
 

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All I am saying, with modern engines and synthetic oil , if you use any filter that fits the application you are unlikely to see
a problem in the near term. Does anybody expect a gross engine problem to present quickly if we happen to use a
sub-optimal filter? That is why I am saying that stating "used xyz filter and never had a problem" presents a rather weak
datapoint if any at all.

Now if you told me you used some brand of filter (most of the time) and you got 250K miles out of an engine,
I would say: "Your engine managed to last 250k miles, the filter you are using cannot totally suck...
Maybe I should try that one too"..
 

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So do we agree that the effect of using sub-optimal filters would have the bad effect of increased engine wear?
Maybe we can use UOA to assess this? Then we would have something measurable when comparing filters..
 

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coder...We may be on two totally different talking points here. I rarely keep a vehicle past 40,000 miles, so I can't speak to long-term
"datapoints". I'm talking real-world experience with a brand I use. The OP was questioning the reliability of the OEM filter, I suggested
a brand I've had success with (as you did). Whether or not he was speaking to putting a quarter-million miles on his Kona is unknown
to either of us. My intent is not to get into a pissing contest with you, I was simply responding to the OP's original request...
 

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I seem to recall reading Mann Hummel on a Hyundai filter. Same company that owns Wix, Purolator and a few others
 

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Section147,

No intention to offend or push my favorite filter. Looks like Wix/NAPA makes an excellent filter with great specs ( Synthetic media, 95% efficiency at 20 microns) .
I personally have not used Wix but would not hesitate using or recommending them based on the specs and construction details we know.

All I am saying, If you define "success" as the absence of apparent engine problems while you running a particular filter, that is not a good differentiator.
Because, you will likely not see any problems with any of the recognized brand filters. It will take a longer time for accelerated engine wear to
manifest symptoms. (Unless you have your oil analyzed regularly and are looking for wear metal residue).

I have a long commute (used to before covid) and put 30K on a car in a year. I maintain my vehicles very carefully, and take great
care when selecting components, such as filters . I run my cars into the ground, and it is common for me to push well past 200K+ miles on a vehicle.
The specs I see on the Wix, are exactly what I am looking for in a filter.

With the Hyundai 2.4L I run 7000 mile oil changes, with a high dirt holding capacity, high efficiency synthetic media filter that is rated for 15K miles.
This allows me to change the filter every other time, which brings down the filter cost to be competitive with a budget filter.
 

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All I am saying, If you define "success" as the absence of apparent engine problems while you running a particular filter, that is not a good differentiator. Because, you will likely not see any problems with any of the recognized brand filters. It will take a longer time for accelerated engine wear to manifest symptoms.
Point taken.
Wow. I certainly don't envy your commute! Anyway, hopefully, we were both able to assist with the OP's original query.
Safe motoring!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yeah you guys helped out, thanks

i was just concerned that the hyundai parts guys told me the oil filter is the same for synthetic and reg oil, i just thought that was weird
 

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There is Cellulose, Synthetic or Hybrid media.in use for filters. There is a loose correlation between Synthetic media filters and Synthetic oils.
The connection is that they are both well suited for extended oil change intervals.

Filters that use synthetic media, tend to be "top of the line" and better made, and have more dirt holding capacity, which translates
to longer OCI possible. The dirt holding capacity is often printed on the packaging, given in Grams.
The mileage rating is often also given, which gives some idea of how the expected "safe" filter mileage correlates with the dirt holding capacity.

Once the dirt holding capacity is exceeded, the filter starts clogging, and the bypass valve will activate frequently.
(Bypass BTW happens for any filter on cold starts, and upon extreme revving on the engine)

Some German filters use hybrid media, but they are perfectly suitable for a 10K mile Oil change interval (e.g. Mercedes Cla)
so that is not necessarily a horrible thing.

Cellulose or Hybrid filter media tends to be rigid, and synthetic media tends to be soft and floppy. So (afaik) all synthetic media
has to be wire mesh backed.
 

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This thread is about engine oil filters. Filterspoint, you are welcome to contribute something relevant to the topic. What is a cabin oil filter?
Seems like the essence of your post is to try to drive traffic to the filterspoint.com web portal. It is not strictly required, but appreciated
if you could say something useful or interesting about the topic we are discussing.

BTW the site contains some rather annoying, trivial and poorly written information about cabin air filters.
For example they make the shocking recommendation that we should look for compatible air filters for our particular brand and model of car.
That would explain why the random cabin air filters I have been trying for my Kona would not fit. :)
 

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A filter replaced at every oil change is better than any "premium"/"top of the line"/"top tier" whatever the expression for preferred filters everyone has that you keep on for up to (what you said?) 10,000 miles.
That's my mantra.
Small example:
A Purolator Boss (top tier, their expensive or "better" filter) is $ 11. The same goes for Fram Ultra XG9688
A Hyundai OEM filter is $ 6.
You guys "save" money changing the filter every other time? We're creatures of habit, aren't we?

I used MANN filters before on my 2.8L Audi A6. I never kept one on for 30,000 KM they're rated, let alone 2 years...But then again, never had a problem with an engine in a car I have owned to blow-up, build carbon, blow by the rings, or any other crap that you come across engines not serviced properly. Changing the oil and the FILTER is the most basic insurance against engine failure.
 

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Filters are Rated differently. As far as Micron Rating. Take the Blue STP for example. Basically its a Quick Lube Filter. 93% Rating. Most Major Brands are 96 or better for the Standard filter. My 2018 Sportster 1200. Came with a 40 Micron filter from the factory. No Anti Drainback since there is a valve inside the engine. I use the standard Bosch Premium(Automotive 3330) rated for 20 Microns. Having Gear Driven Camshafts, I want the better filter. Rated to last 5k Miles. But it gets changed more often according to Season since I don't ride as much as I used to. My 2019 Kona usually gets a Bosch Distance Plus every 5k Miles. Along with Pennzoil Syn 5/20. I already have some leftover. Shame. I used to be able to get them at the local Walmart. AZ stopped selling the Premium. Now I have to order online. Or got to Pep Boys and hope they have the Premium in stock.
 

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A filter has rated dirt holding capacity usually given in grams. If you do not exceed this, the filter continues to do its job without any decrease in filtering efficiency.
The manufacturers determine this (and the mileage rating) by running a filter while measuring the flow rate. When the flow rate starts dropping, they measure the filter mass, compare it to the "virgin" filter's mass and call the difference the dirt holding capacity.

The filter media has permeable "holes" in it. The filtering efficiency depends on the size of these holes. The longevity depends on the number of these holes. Synthetic media has smaller holes and a lot more of them than the traditional cellulose ( ie paper) media.

The only reason to replace a filter: If it holds so much dirt, that the flow rate starts dropping. (ie.e most of the holes I mentioned are plugged with dirt) .
This does not happen until you get close to the rated dirt holding capacity. When that happens, the filter starts bypassing more frequently than an unclogged filter would . This is the rational basis for replacing a filter: It is the flow rate. Having said that, there is no harm in replacing a filter early, it is just money.

It is not like the filtering capacity is gradually decreases in some mysterious way.

As long as the flow rate remains OK, the filter continues working as good as new. BTW I find the arguments along the lines of "I have followed such such such practice and I never had an engine problem" not very useful, because modern engines tend to be resilient, and they tend to not have obvious problems regardless how you maintain them (or don't). Even with poor maintenance a modern engine may last you a 100K miles.
 
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