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We bought my daughter a 2018 Limited Galaxy Grey Kona with Lime Accents on the interior. She wants more base so we are thinking of adding a Bazooka Tube because it takes up less space and she can remove it if she needs to have the space since it is strapped in and not permanent. Has anyone done this and if so what size and was it easy and any suggestions or recommendations?
 

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I would look around at some reputable car audio shops in your area. If nothing else, you can see where it may fit and how to strap it. The main thing is if you are going to install (wires/connections/etc,) or if you pay someone else to do it. Critchfield has been around a long time and has dozens of review/tips/installations/measurements/etc. You can make it so that there are easily accessible user quick disconnects (power, ground, input, auto on-off, variable control, etc) for taking out the whole unit and putting it back in with a single Molex-type connector. Just use Velcro to strap the tube.

I had two Bazooka's 10's in a early 80's Datsun Hatchback. It absolutely rocked with a Punch 75 mono into 2 ohm.

The only "secret" I know of is to have the driver/speaker cone faced/pointed into a corner of the vehicle. Don't put the Bazooka in the middle or facing away from the inside of the vehicle like up against a seat. Point it to the back corner near the lift gate and rock on.
 

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I would look around at some reputable car audio shops in your area. If nothing else, you can see where it may fit and how to strap it. The main thing is if you are going to install (wires/connections/etc,) or if you pay someone else to do it. Critchfield has been around a long time and has dozens of review/tips/installations/measurements/etc. You can make it so that there are easily accessible user quick disconnects (power, ground, input, auto on-off, variable control, etc) for taking out the whole unit and putting it back in with a single Molex-type connector. Just use Velcro to strap the tube.

I had two Bazooka's 10's in a early 80's Datsun Hatchback. It absolutely rocked with a Punch 75 mono into 2 ohm.

The only "secret" I know of is to have the driver/speaker cone faced/pointed into a corner of the vehicle. Don't put the Bazooka in the middle or facing away from the inside of the vehicle like up against a seat. Point it to the back corner near the lift gate and rock on.
Thank you, I appreciate the advice. My husband has installed them in the past but car sterios now a days are so computerized and pretty much control everything in the car.
 

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Thank you, I appreciate the advice. My husband has installed them in the past but car sterios now a days are so computerized and pretty much control everything in the car.

Check, but I think that model may come with a Sub already installed. It would be in the very back behind the passenger rear wheel. It will just be a 6" or-so speaker above the rear "bottom/trunk floor" of the hatch facing outward. I guess I'm not sure if you want to tie into that or into the full range on the door.

That's the 10k question if there is a built-in sub. Do you pick off of the sub speaker level? Where does the crossover happen? Is there a line level sub that you can tap into? I don't have any control over the sub on the head unit. Only low, mid, high tone controls.

It may be better to see if the built-in sub can be replaced with an appropriate speaker and tuned custom cabinet and then never lose trunk space or have to worry about disconnecting it. Seems to me that you can get a high excursion driver and then port the doo-doo out of a cabinet that would fit in that existing area and it would just boom--- or even a tiny band-pass and keep the same wiring/amp. Just suggestions.... you can look on here for posts specific to OEM speaker replacement: Upgraded infinity speakers

This is a very interesting subject and would like for more knowledgeable people to chime in.
 

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Check, but I think that model may come with a Sub already installed. It would be in the very back behind the passenger rear wheel. It will just be a 6" or-so speaker above the rear "bottom/trunk floor" of the hatch facing outward. I guess I'm not sure if you want to tie into that or into the full range on the door.

That's the 10k question if there is a built-in sub. Do you pick off of the sub speaker level? Where does the crossover happen? Is there a line level sub that you can tap into? I don't have any control over the sub on the head unit. Only low, mid, high tone controls.

It may be better to see if the built-in sub can be replaced with an appropriate speaker and tuned custom cabinet and then never lose trunk space or have to worry about disconnecting it. Seems to me that you can get a high excursion driver and then port the doo-doo out of a cabinet that would fit in that existing area and it would just boom--- or even a tiny band-pass and keep the same wiring/amp. Just suggestions.... you can look on here for posts specific to OEM speaker replacement: Upgraded infinity speakers

This is a very interesting subject and would like for more knowledgeable people to chime in.
Thanks so much
 

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The Kona Limited should have the Infinity branded "premium" sound system with an 8 inch sub in a molded plastic enclosure behind the passenger side plastic panel in the hatch. My wife and I wanted more output, so I sacrificed some hatch space and added a 10" ported enclosure and 250 watt amp mounted in a corner of the spare tire well under the carpeted panel. You can get signal for the amps high level inputs at the factory subs wires. It's a dual voice coil sub and there are 2 sets of wires coming in to the enclosure, so it's not hard to tap into those. You still have to run power up to the battery though.
5131
 

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The Kona Limited should have the Infinity branded "premium" sound system with an 8 inch sub in a molded plastic enclosure behind the passenger side plastic panel in the hatch. My wife and I wanted more output, so I sacrificed some hatch space and added a 10" ported enclosure and 250 watt amp mounted in a corner of the spare tire well under the carpeted panel. You can get signal for the amps high level inputs at the factory subs wires. It's a dual voice coil sub and there are 2 sets of wires coming in to the enclosure, so it's not hard to tap into those. You still have to run power up to the battery though. View attachment 5131

That must be a newer option, the 2018 model limited i have does not have the infinity system, that was only available on the Ultimate.
 

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The Kona Limited should have the Infinity branded "premium" sound system with an 8 inch sub in a molded plastic enclosure behind the passenger side plastic panel in the hatch. My wife and I wanted more output, so I sacrificed some hatch space and added a 10" ported enclosure and 250 watt amp mounted in a corner of the spare tire well under the carpeted panel. You can get signal for the amps high level inputs at the factory subs wires. It's a dual voice coil sub and there are 2 sets of wires coming in to the enclosure, so it's not hard to tap into those. You still have to run power up to the battery though. View attachment 5131

So... you just tapped out of the Sub speaker level? Did you have to EQ the added sub much?

Did you keep the factory sub working at the same time?

I'm wondering what the x-over freq is coming from the amp...

I wish the head unit had a dedicated Sub Level. I've thought about replacing the factory speaker and enclosure. Seems the amp is OK if I could get it efficient enough. I don't need to shear sheet metal, just a lil bump.
 

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Yeah, speaker level into my new amp, no eq. I ran the new amp in full range mode, since the signal coming in was already crossed over. And I left the stock 8" sub playing. I tested it both with and without the stock sub, and it's louder with it playing. Just for reference...
113 dB stock 8" sub only w/factory amp
117 dB Belva 10" sub w/Belva 250w amp
120 dB with both subs playing
 

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Yeah, speaker level into my new amp, no eq. I ran the new amp in full range mode, since the signal coming in was already crossed over. And I left the stock 8" sub playing. I tested it both with and without the stock sub, and it's louder with it playing. Just for reference...
113 dB stock 8" sub only w/factory amp
117 dB Belva 10" sub w/Belva 250w amp
120 dB with both subs playing
Sweet. Thanks for the info.

I've been thinking about replacing the stock sub with something at little more "thump-i-er."

I've been looking for more efficient speakers to keep the same amp, but nothing has shown up.
 
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