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As the title suggests, I'm approaching 7000 miles on my Kona Ultimate (1.6T) and will be bringing it to the dealer early next week for an oil change, etc., as I don't have a heated garage and want to freeze my tail off in the sub zero temps here in MN the next week. My question is what else should I have them look at while it's in? Rear differential, update the map software, etc.? Thanks for any advice.

Also, had my my first tire blow out last weekend driving back from northern MN to the cities and was I glad I had the full 16" size spare in the trunk waiting for me. It was nice not having a "donut" compact spare so I could still drive the speed limits. ha-ha. Here's a bunch of kudos to all of you with countless posts about spare tire recommendations :)
 

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As the title suggests, I'm approaching 7000 miles on my Kona Ultimate (1.6T) and will be bringing it to the dealer early next week for an oil change, etc., as I don't have a heated garage and want to freeze my tail off in the sub zero temps here in MN the next week. My question is what else should I have them look at while it's in? Rear differential, update the map software, etc.? Thanks for any advice.

Also, had my my first tire blow out last weekend driving back from northern MN to the cities and was I glad I had the full 16" size spare in the trunk waiting for me. It was nice not having a "donut" compact spare so I could still drive the speed limits. ha-ha. Here's a bunch of kudos to all of you with countless posts about spare tire recommendations :)
The dealer has a procedure for the first time/yearly oil change, supposedly. they will go over and Inspect the main components and check your fluids. At least that is what I was told happened.
 

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Personally, If I wasnt able to do it myself, Dealer. I work at a Tire Chain. And would not want them working on my vehicle. They use Cheap Parts. And look for Quick Buck items.
 

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As the title suggests, I'm approaching 7000 miles on my Kona Ultimate (1.6T) and will be bringing it to the dealer early next week for an oil change, etc., as I don't have a heated garage and want to freeze my tail off in the sub zero temps here in MN the next week. My question is what else should I have them look at while it's in? Rear differential, update the map software, etc.? Thanks for any advice.

Also, had my my first tire blow out last weekend driving back from northern MN to the cities and was I glad I had the full 16" size spare in the trunk waiting for me. It was nice not having a "donut" compact spare so I could still drive the speed limits. ha-ha. Here's a bunch of kudos to all of you with countless posts about spare tire recommendations :)
I would suggest you lessen the length of oil change with a 1.6T in winters, in Minnesota. I would not go past 4,500 miles because of fuel dilution. Hyundai turbos are hard on oil and they add a bit too much soot into the oil that are hard on timing chains.
 

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Make sure the Shop uses API SN Plus or SP. Newest grades. Rated for the Turbo GDI.
 
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so i went in for my oil change, i changed it at 3000,now at 6500. first oil change with dealer, paper work says its 5w20 blend, i told them my car says 5w30 on the oil cap, and it was supposed to be full synthetic, he looked it up in his system and said no its supposed to be 5w20, so i showed hem on cap, went and checked with his tech, tech said he used 5w30, i dont know who to believe, ill probly just replace it with 5w30 since the dealer doesnt seem to know or care, i have free oil changes for 3 years but if they pull this crap ill just do it myself
 

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so i went in for my oil change, i changed it at 3000,now at 6500. first oil change with dealer, paper work says its 5w20 blend, i told them my car says 5w30 on the oil cap, and it was supposed to be full synthetic, he looked it up in his system and said no its supposed to be 5w20, so i showed hem on cap, went and checked with his tech, tech said he used 5w30, i dont know who to believe, ill probly just replace it with 5w30 since the dealer doesnt seem to know or care, i have free oil changes for 3 years but if they pull this crap ill just do it myself
You are are right, they don't care. And I would say a high chance they put in bulk 5w-20 too.
 

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I'm sure this post could be easily hijacked, but to add my 0.02...

I would say that with the Turbo Engine, start thinking about changing the oil every 5k miles.

I would also look at your driving habits. Do you drive just short trips where the engine is "cold" for more than half the trip? If you make a lot of "short trips," then you need to find a time/place to make long trips where the engine, exhaust, coolant, everything, gets up to "operating temperature" for a good while... like even highway driving for an hour.

In my opinion, the car will need to be driven long enough to burn off the blow-by from the cylinder. I believe that short trips (where the engine does not get warm for a long time), is where the engine gets gunked-up and performance suffers. If you can take at least one long trip a week, then you will help keep the "gunk" in-check as the blow-by vapors will be hotter to (hopefully) activate any additives in the oil to "clean" the engine better.

If your daily trips are all over 45 minutes, then I think you are good...but go to a 5k oil change.

...also, it is a turbo. Synthetic all the way !!!

Here's something... if the dealer only puts in semi-syn, and the warranty is for 100k miles... does Hyundai not think at all about oil and Warranty Issues? Is the "fine print" saying all driving is "severe" and that is a 3750 mile oil change so that is where they say you voided the Warranty? I don't think the instruction manual (in the U.S.) requires full synthetic. They recommend it, but I don't recall seeing anything about a warranty issue. Now...does that mean that Hyundai is so clever that they can build a bullet-proof turbo engine that runs for 102k miles on 7500 mile 5-20w conventional oil changes, then blows up? I dunno.
 

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I'm sure this post could be easily hijacked, but to add my 0.02...

I would say that with the Turbo Engine, start thinking about changing the oil every 5k miles.

I would also look at your driving habits. Do you drive just short trips where the engine is "cold" for more than half the trip? If you make a lot of "short trips," then you need to find a time/place to make long trips where the engine, exhaust, coolant, everything, gets up to "operating temperature" for a good while... like even highway driving for an hour.

In my opinion, the car will need to be driven long enough to burn off the blow-by from the cylinder. I believe that short trips (where the engine does not get warm for a long time), is where the engine gets gunked-up and performance suffers. If you can take at least one long trip a week, then you will help keep the "gunk" in-check as the blow-by vapors will be hotter to (hopefully) activate any additives in the oil to "clean" the engine better.

If your daily trips are all over 45 minutes, then I think you are good...but go to a 5k oil change.

...also, it is a turbo. Synthetic all the way !!!

Here's something... if the dealer only puts in semi-syn, and the warranty is for 100k miles... does Hyundai not think at all about oil and Warranty Issues? Is the "fine print" saying all driving is "severe" and that is a 3750 mile oil change so that is where they say you voided the Warranty? I don't think the instruction manual (in the U.S.) requires full synthetic. They recommend it, but I don't recall seeing anything about a warranty issue. Now...does that mean that Hyundai is so clever that they can build a bullet-proof turbo engine that runs for 102k miles on 7500 mile 5-20w conventional oil changes, then blows up? I dunno.
I just noticed in the manual it doesn't list 5w20 for the turbo, only for the 2.0
 

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I just noticed in the manual it doesn't list 5w20 for the turbo, only for the 2.0
It really Depends on where you live? What kind of Driving you do? Can't go wrong using a Fully Syn Oil. Those Oil Weight Charts are Confusing. 5/20 and 5/30 cover the most ranges. 30 just being a little heavier. 5/20 gives better MPG's. Since mine is a 2.0. And live in NJ, I use a Full Syn 5/20. Not just the Oil. You Need a Good Filter as well. Which will start an Argument over brands. My own gets a Bosch D3312. Changed every 5k. My 2018 Harley 1200 gets a Bosch Premium 3330. They're hard to find locally.
 
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