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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long story short I have replaced every halogen bulb on our Kona with LEDs. The 2022 has a different headlight (9005) than the previous model years. The Low and High bulb are the same bulb. It just uses a little flap to cover the bulb in lows instead of a different bulb or a second filament.

I have found LEDs for every light that does not toss an error in the dash or hyperflash that plug into the stock harnesses (no resistors, no mods, no flasher change).

The only one I cannot figure out is the brake lights. No matter which bulbs I put in, I still get the error message. Plus the Incandescent is slightly pinker behind the red lenses versus the red LEDs. :-(

I have tried the cheapies and I have tried the expensive bulbs, including LastFit and other similar brands, nothing works. Has anyone found any bulb that works by itself for the brake lights? Seems like late model Hyundai vehicles have this issue with one or two sets of bulb in each model.

Since it is brand new I will not be putting resistors on the wires. I don't want the dealership to have ANY excuses if something happens. I have done extensive modifications to other cars I have owned, so it's not a matter of skill. Worse comes to worse I will buy red glass halogen bulbs to match colors, but that kinda sucks.

Also, If anyone is interested I can create a post with a list of the bulbs that I purchased that worked. I was even able to find headlight LED bulbs that fit nicely and work as well as stock and match the "eyebrows".
 

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If you post all the bulbs that worked for you that would be great help. Something like that should be pinned for everyone to find easily! I decided on Lasfit for my 2022 SEL headlights, but still researching for the rest. Hope you get an answer for the brake lights!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Definitely. I think a lot of these bulbs line up with previous model years. The only one that I know for sure does not is the headlights. None of the below hyperflash or set off errors in the dash for me.

I'll start with the Exterior lights. I do not have Fog Lights.

Headlights are 9005 or HB3 Canbus. I wanted fanless so I couldn't go too bright or otherwise they overheat. I got these. They are at least equivalent to stock halogen brightness (definitely not "300% brighter" ha), just matches the color of the DRL. They fit perfectly in the housing with the wiring, module, and bulb fully contained in the dust cap. The dust cap seals up against the back of the bulb so I recommend having the light on and pointing at a wall as you seal it up so you can make sure it doesnt mess up the alignment when you close it. You may have to mess with it a little to close it up. I didn't have to adjust my aim, these bulbs lined up on the dot once I got them to snug up with the cap. They work functionally equivalent to stock in all ways but color.

There's an access panel in the wheel well. Turn your front wheel inwards where you are working. The passenger side has windshield wiper fluid tubes in the way. They are rubber, just be careful with them.

AUXITO 9005/HB3 LED Bulbs, 6500K White Fanless Lights

Front Turn Signals are 1157 or P21/5W (P28/8W equivalent) Canbus. These work by themselves but they are insanely bright. I took a Sharpie and covered over the lenses of the LEDs except for the LED panel that faces upwards when the bulb is installed. This got them to the proper brightness. I'm sure they will have a shorter lifespan but I'm willing to see what happens. Blow on the LEDs as you write on them with Sharpie as they will dry more evenly.

The bulb is easily accessible in the hood. Just twist the bulb out in the normal direction. It's firm, but it will come out. Push in and align until it seats and twist to seat back into place.

KATUR 1157 BAY15D P21/5W

Rear Turn Signals are weird. They are Canbus. You technically should get the bulb PY21W or 7507. But P21/5W or 1157 does fit if you give it a nice push into the socket. It will not twist but it should still be captured in the socket and take a firm pull to get back out. I got the 1157s not realizing there was a slight difference between them and couldn't understand why they couldn't fit. It's a real pain to get to these, but under further investigation one of the pins is slightly off. You may never need to replace these so you could get away with the wrong ones. I decided to replace mine with the proper bulbs. These are also super bright. I had to do the trick I described in the Front Turn signals to these as well. The LED panel towards the inside of the car/pointing at the hatch when the bulb is in the socket was the panel I left uncovered on this bulb.

Underneath the bumper on both sides there are access hatches to pull down. I didn't open them because I can squeeze around them, but it is HARD. They are way up in the corners behind the lights. I can barely reach them and I am tall with long arms. They twist in and out.

Proper ones:
KATUR BAU15S PY21W 7507

Close enough:
KATUR 1157 BAY15D P21/5W

Backup lights are P21W or 1156 non-Canbus. Get whatever lights you want here. I got these because I have used this brand in another vehicle and are also cheap and available at NAPA.

Easier than the turn signals. Look up under the bumper with a light and you can see them on the bottom side of the housings. Use the same access panels as the turn signals. They turn in and out.

Pilot Automotive 1156 White LED

License Plate lights are W5W or 194 (or 168) non-Canbus. Get whatever lights you want here. I'm a fan of these. Used them in my other vehicle for years and they are cheap at Walmart and Advance Auto (use coupon code!). Plus they match the color of the backups.

Just unscrew the screws and it comes down and is easy to change.

Sylvania 194 White LED

Side Marker Lights are W5W or 194 (or 168) non-Canbus. Get whatever lights you want here. I'm a fan of these. Used them in my other vehicle for years and they are cheap at Advance Auto (use coupon code!).

Sylvania 194 Red LED

These are also a pain. You need to open the hatch and unscrew the two screws and then grab the tail light on both sides and give it several firm tugs straight out. Rubber gloves helped give me grip and prevent damage to paint. You will likely damage your paint a little doing this unfortunately because it is in there GOOD. Just be careful, but it takes some force.. The wire is hooked onto the back of the housing and you need to hook it back around putting it back into place. The bulb twists in and out.

Hatch Running Lights are W5W or 194 (or 168) non-Canbus. I used the same as the Side Marker Lights above.

On the hatch on the inside there are little panels. Pop them with something flat and plastic. Be careful not to mar the surface of the panel much. The bulbs twist in and out. The wires can be a little bit of a pain but just work with them and they will make it happen.

Brake lights are P21/5W or 1157 and are DEFINITELY Canbus. I have no idea what LEDs work in these. If you know you will be a hero. If I can't find an LED that doesn't toss an error on the dash. I'm going to give these a shot to try to color match. I'll report how bright they are.

See Side Marker lights for instructions on how to get to these bulbs. It's a pain.

Grand General 84043 Light Bulb (1157 Red Glass)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here are the inside lights. None are Canbus. When the AC runs at idle there is a almost unnoticeable flicker if you look into the lights, I'm assuming all LEDs will be the same. It doesn't bother me but could bother others.

I choose warm white LEDs so mine are a little more pricey. There are cheaper cool white and colored kits on Amazon and Ebay. The LEDs I chose also fade in and out properly with the doors locking and unlocking.

If you short out a light installing it there is a spare 7.5 AMP Micro Fuse under the steering wheel in a panel that says "FUSE" that you can use to replace it. Be careful as shorting this fuse is easy and it has to be live because polarity matters for LEDs so you need to test them in both directions until it lights. You might go through a couple if you aren't careful, ask me how I know.

Vanity Lights are 29MM Festoons with the pill shape! I forced 31MM into mine because of needing the pill shape and 29MM not being available in Warm White. Pill shape is a must.

Take a flat plastic spudger and push it up under the light fitting on the side with the switch. It will pop down out of the ceiling with some light prying on that side. Be careful not to mar the finish or damage the roof.

Diode Dynamics Dome Light LEDs 31mm Festoon SMF2

Map Lights are W10W or 194 (or 168).

I popped the clear lens down by gently prying at the front edge (towards the front of the car) of the clear lens until it popped out. It just carefully clips back up. Just pull the bulb out of the socket. LEDs are more directional so it won't "fill" the lens as well, but the light is roughly the same.

Diode Dynamics License Plate LEDs 194 SMD2

Dome light is a 31MM Festoon either pill or fuse shape.

Take a guitar pick and slide it between the plastic cover and the edge of the fixture on the side towards the front of the car. You are trying to pop the lens out. Work it until it comes out. Be careful not to mar the light fitting surface, it's soft.

Diode Dynamics Dome Light LEDs 31mm Festoon HP6

Glove Box is a 36MM with the pill shape! Pill shape is a must.

Take a plastic spudger and pry downwards on the light fitting from the right hand side, it should pop right out.

Diode Dynamics Dome Light LED 36mm Festoon SMF2

Hatch light is a 31MM Festoon either pill or fuse shape.

Take a plastic spudger and pry downwards on the light fitting from the top, it should pop right out.

Same as Dome Light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So reporting back about the brake lights.

I tried two more pairs of "Canbus" LEDs with no luck.

However the red glass halogen bulbs I listed above do seem to perfectly match the standard red LEDs. White bulbs give an obvious orange appearance compared to the LEDs. The brightness is roughly equivalent to the white bulb, so no issues there. Also the difference between on and stopping is noticeable brightness wise (an issue with some LED bulbs that you must check for before you drive!). It is a compromise I am happy with for now.

Maybe it's useful to list the bulbs folks have tried and have failed with so it can be narrowed down.

I've tried these and they have NOT worked:

Pilot IL-1157A-15

KATUR 1157 BAY15D P21/5W Red

LASFIT Red 1157

P21/5W LED Bulb, KaiDengZhe 1157

OUSHI P21/5W

I noticed with the cheap Pilots I tried first the vehicle would throw the bulb out indicator as soon as I pushed the brakes. With all of the others, it wouldn't notice it until I pushed the brakes with the headlights on. So I think the computer does a two step check for draw: the difference between off and brake (for daytime) AND the difference between on and brake (for night time) as well as potential the difference between off and on. I think this is why these LEDs will fail.

I do have an idea to try with something like this where I feed the stock harness back into the car, toss this into the middle, and feed it back out to the light to snap into place. Then the resistor will be inside the car and I will adhear it to the body on the inside between the body and the trim.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, I did some more investigation. Seems like you can just pull the harness out of the body once the brake light is out of the way. It's just a rubber nipple that pushes into the body of the car, a firm tug pulls it out cleanly. Pull it out as far as you can and there is an electrical clip. Unclip that and you can swap it out. Did some research and this is how they swap between LED and Halogen housings.

Figured out that you can just buy part number 92480J9010 which is the halogen harness. I bought one to tear apart and experiment with.


The side marker and the "running" break light on have their +12V wire tied together. This wire is non-Canbus. They also have a shared ground. The only wire that is not shared is the +12V for the brake lights. This wire IS Canbus. I tried a 5W resistor on it and it shows the error. Tried a 21W resistor on it and it doesn't show the error.

Long story short, it needs a power draw somewhere between 5W and 21W to prevent the error.

I suspect the "Canbus" bulbs with the resistor built in:
-Can't have a resistor large enough because of heating dissipation issues, so this trips the error
-Have a resistor only on the "lower power" circuit and thus is useless for this system
-Have resistors on both, but the difference in power draw between low and high is not enough for the computer to sense a difference in draw large enough to not trip the error

Without a bulb that solves the above issues a resistor will be needed. So Im going to modify a set of new harnesses with a 21W resistor in parallel to the brake light and use non Canbus LEDs. Will report back my results when I get a chance to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Furthermore I also tried these and they did not work.

AUXITO 1157 2057 Super Red LED
 
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