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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have installed LEDs in my 2022 Kona Elite Electric ( very pleased with them on low beam) and want to install driving lights. We are in serious roo territory here. The 2022 runs HB3 and has no separate high beam circuit. There is a mask in the headlight unit which lifts to enable high beam. Does any one know how to wire the circuit to trigger the driving lights for high beam only?
I have seen a Canbus sensor but am not sure if that is what is appropriate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tap off that wire to the shield for the coil drive on your spotlight relay.
View attachment 7075
Thanks Kiwi! I'll try and get my old brain around that. I can see how that works. The problem is there is no high beam relay delineated on either fuse box so I don't know where the relay is situated. For this car it has just disappeared.
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Well, having spent more time on that than I should have, I think the relay is deep inside the under-hood fuse box, the so-called "PCB Block". Given that the signal you need is easily reached at either headlight connector, I'd suggest using that to keep it simple.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow! I have been looking for and not finding that information. Truly grateful! I reckon ASIO have been blocking it. Only available to Kiwis!
Hope I can return the favour one day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Kiwi,
Your good work was not wasted. Though some of the wires on mine are different colours, the number 2 pin is still grey and it tests with my multi meter as the high beam solenoid. It retains current while the high beam is on. Perfect for triggering the driving light relay. Thank you once again!
 

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Coincidentally, I saw this post just as I was going into the forum to see if others had a headlight problem that I do. It is somewhat related to this. I have a 2021 EV Ultimate and often have people flashing their brights at me when mine are on low beam. Is it that they are just very bright or perhaps need to be aimed lower? I have tried setting it to automatic, so that folks coming can see them change and this does help with getting flashed. I was curious if others had this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Since I installed my LEDs I have noticed my headlights cut out higher than with the Halogens. Mine are neither auto or manually adjustable from the dash. I have not yet been flashed and am leaving them until I need to adjust because it gives me more visibility on the verges when my lights are dipped.(There are adjusting screws on the headlamp units under the bonnet)

If I were in an urban setting I think I would adjust them down a bit. I don't know about the OEM LEDs but am a little pissed Hyundai sell a $65,000 dollar car with HB3 Halogens.
Never the less I enjoy a little innovation.
 

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When I dropped $75k on my base model Kona 3.5 years ago I was so distracted by the "EV" parts such as the heat pump that I didn't even notice it was missing LED headlights and navigation. It certainly doesn't have BlueLink but that might be a blessing.
 

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Coincidentally, I saw this post just as I was going into the forum to see if others had a headlight problem that I do. It is somewhat related to this. I have a 2021 EV Ultimate and often have people flashing their brights at me when mine are on low beam. Is it that they are just very bright or perhaps need to be aimed lower? I have tried setting it to automatic, so that folks coming can see them change and this does help with getting flashed. I was curious if others had this issue.
Do you have a thumbwheel on the knee switch panel that adjusts the headlights up and down? (It's on my Aussie 2021 Highlander which I think is similar trim to your Ultimate.) If so, try that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Do you have a thumbwheel on the knee switch panel that adjusts the headlights up and down? (It's on my Aussie 2021 Highlander which I think is similar trim to your Ultimate.) If so, try that.
It's one of the things making me regret I didn't fork out the extra $3000. The salesman didn't know his product very well and I didn't realise that a couple of the things on the Highlander (which we test drove) weren't on the Elite. Because of the delays we decided we would stick to our order and got a car in a month instead of 6-12 months. So my fault in the end for not doing due diligence properly and being impatient.:sneaky:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've now completed the fitting of my LightForce Striker Led driving lights. A few photos attached. When I connected the relay trigger Earth wire to the Number 7 wire (as in the diagram earlier post) I got a check headlamp error and the left hand light where the wire was connected was not operating. I then connected the earth to battery and all is well. No check headlight.

I moved the Number plate up and then used a STEDI light bracket, upside down, fixed to the place where the Number plate was. So far no discernible radar interference. I used a nut rivet system to enable me to bolt the bracket to the plastic body work.
Careful when you tighten the riveter that you don't crush the plastic. It works very well. The rivets didn't spin or let go even when rattled up with a Makita driver. Modern auto plastics are amazingly tough.
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When I connected the relay trigger Earth wire to the Number 7 wire (as in the diagram earlier post) I got a check headlamp error and the left hand light where the wire was connected was not operating. I then connected the earth to battery and all is well. No check headlight.
Good project, but I cannot tell if you've bypassed the load sensor on the neg terminal of the battery. Not ideal if you have. Earth (neg) of your light system would be better on a chassis earth, I think.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Good project, but I cannot tell if you've bypassed the load sensor on the neg terminal of the battery. Not ideal if you have. Earth (neg) of your light system would be better on a chassis earth, I think.

Cheers
Not sure either. Didn't know there was one. I'll investigate. Thank you!
I realise I should have taken the photos before taping. Have taken it for an extensive drive tonight and no probs so far.
 

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Not sure either. Didn't know there was one. I'll investigate. Thank you!
I realise I should have taken the photos before taping. Have taken it for an extensive drive tonight and no probs so far.
It will work but the Kona's electrical system will not be detecting the load if the neg is directly onto the neg battery post. That will adversely affect its charging algorithm.
 

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The negatives are for the Driving light relay and the relay trigger wires from the head light high beam solenoid positive.
Yep. All negs should go to a chassis earth. It's possible that you've done it right at the battery - ie connected to the chassis side of the load sensor, but I cannot tell for sure. Just connect all negs to a clean chassis earth. Scrape paint away if necessary, if you're not using a factory chassis earth.
 
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