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Discussion Starter #1
Hi-
New to the forum, with a weird engine problem.
I got my Kona in March of '20, and love it! Everything has been fine, regular service at dealer- until 2 weeks ago, when I realized that the engine was quite noisy on the way from work. No "dummy" light activation, but the distinct clatter of valves. I checked the oil after letting it sit all night at home, and it was barely touching the tip of the stick! Not what I expected for a car with just over 6k miles on it!
I immediately called the dealer and before taking it up, added 2 full qts of oil, to be safe.
They did an oil change and started an oil consumption test on the vehicle, having me drive normally and check levels each week. 1st week, and all looks good. I live in DC and drive 2 miles r/t to work, so decided to take a little drive to an antique mall in Gettysburg PA. All fine on the way up, but shortly after heading home, an "engine system failure " message appeared on the media screen, and the dummy light lit on the instrument cluster.
I pulled over immediately and used the Blue Link to contact the dealer. Drove it straight there, and it was diagnosed with a PC valve failure.
I went to dealer today to pick up the repaired vehicle, and immediately noticed a loud ticking noise coming the engine after starting up.
Went back to service writer, and he and the mechanic came out and took a listen. Left the car at dealer again, after mechanic thought the problem was caused by a "slapping piston" due to a possible defective cylinder, which could have accounted for the oil loss.
They called me later in the day to confirm that diagnosis, and tell me they were going to replace the "bottom part" (block?) of the engine.
I hope this doesn't foretell of cascading issues afterwards, but we'll have to wait and see.
In the meantime, at least they gave me a brand new Ultimate to drive, lol.
Sorry for the lengthy story, but wondering if others have had an issue like this?
 

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Sounds like you’re getting a new engine.. I doubt they will build up a short block with existing top half.. much cheaper and easier to drop in a new engine.. I would ask for a better explanation.

Hi-
New to the forum, with a weird engine problem.
I got my Kona in March of '20, and love it! Everything has been fine, regular service at dealer- until 2 weeks ago, when I realized that the engine was quite noisy on the way from work. No "dummy" light activation, but the distinct clatter of valves. I checked the oil after letting it sit all night at home, and it was barely touching the tip of the stick! Not what I expected for a car with just over 6k miles on it!
I immediately called the dealer and before taking it up, added 2 full qts of oil, to be safe.
They did an oil change and started an oil consumption test on the vehicle, having me drive normally and check levels each week. 1st week, and all looks good. I live in DC and drive 2 miles r/t to work, so decided to take a little drive to an antique mall in Gettysburg PA. All fine on the way up, but shortly after heading home, an "engine system failure " message appeared on the media screen, and the dummy light lit on the instrument cluster.
I pulled over immediately and used the Blue Link to contact the dealer. Drove it straight there, and it was diagnosed with a PC valve failure.
I went to dealer today to pick up the repaired vehicle, and immediately noticed a loud ticking noise coming the engine after starting up.
Went back to service writer, and he and the mechanic came out and took a listen. Left the car at dealer again, after mechanic thought the problem was caused by a "slapping piston" due to a possible defective cylinder, which could have accounted for the oil loss.
They called me later in the day to confirm that diagnosis, and tell me they were going to replace the "bottom part" (block?) of the engine.
I hope this doesn't foretell of cascading issues afterwards, but we'll have to wait and see.
In the meantime, at least they gave me a brand new Ultimate to drive, lol.
Sorry for the lengthy story, but wondering if others have had an issue like this?
 

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which engine do you have? 1.6 turbo or 2.0? hope you get a new problem free engine quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds like you’re getting a new engine.. I doubt they will build up a short block with existing top half.. much cheaper and easier to drop in a new engine.. I would ask for a better explanation.
Kind of suspect you are right, if for no other reason than tearing down and rebuilding an engine will take a lot more billable labor hours than installing a ready- to -go one.
 

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hi, i have the 2.0 also. mine us a 2019 SE AWD with 11,500 miles and no problems so far. post updates on how the replacement goes if you have time.
 

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2020 Hyundai Kona
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Sounds like you’re getting a new engine.. I doubt they will build up a short block with existing top half.. much cheaper and easier to drop in a new engine.. I would ask for a better explanation.
Maybe in the States but I had a short block change on my 2012 Elantra (bought new). From what the Service Department was telling me at the time, the piston slap, ticking noise issues with the NU 148hp engine were getting the short block changed, not a whole engine.
 

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Hi-
New to the forum, with a weird engine problem.
I got my Kona in March of '20, and love it! Everything has been fine, regular service at dealer- until 2 weeks ago, when I realized that the engine was quite noisy on the way from work. No "dummy" light activation, but the distinct clatter of valves. I checked the oil after letting it sit all night at home, and it was barely touching the tip of the stick! Not what I expected for a car with just over 6k miles on it!
I immediately called the dealer and before taking it up, added 2 full qts of oil, to be safe.
They did an oil change and started an oil consumption test on the vehicle, having me drive normally and check levels each week. 1st week, and all looks good. I live in DC and drive 2 miles r/t to work, so decided to take a little drive to an antique mall in Gettysburg PA. All fine on the way up, but shortly after heading home, an "engine system failure " message appeared on the media screen, and the dummy light lit on the instrument cluster.
I pulled over immediately and used the Blue Link to contact the dealer. Drove it straight there, and it was diagnosed with a PC valve failure.
I went to dealer today to pick up the repaired vehicle, and immediately noticed a loud ticking noise coming the engine after starting up.
Went back to service writer, and he and the mechanic came out and took a listen. Left the car at dealer again, after mechanic thought the problem was caused by a "slapping piston" due to a possible defective cylinder, which could have accounted for the oil loss.
They called me later in the day to confirm that diagnosis, and tell me they were going to replace the "bottom part" (block?) of the engine.
I hope this doesn't foretell of cascading issues afterwards, but we'll have to wait and see.
In the meantime, at least they gave me a brand new Ultimate to drive, lol.
Sorry for the lengthy story, but wondering if others have had an issue like this?
interesting. I had the same issue recently. 25,000 miles. Went in for an oil change and mentioned the same noise in the engine. They said my oil was almost completely gone but there was no leak detected. I’ll listen for the noise and check the oil regularly, I thought it was odd that I ran out of oil that fast. I have the 1.6 turbo 2019 limited.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
interesting. I had the same issue recently. 25,000 miles. Went in for an oil change and mentioned the same noise in the engine. They said my oil was almost completely gone but there was no leak detected. I’ll listen for the noise and check the oil regularly, I thought it was odd that I ran out of oil that fast. I have the 1.6 turbo 2019 limited.
interesting. I had the same issue recently. 25,000 miles. Went in for an oil change and mentioned the same noise in the engine. They said my oil was almost completely gone but there was no leak detected. I’ll listen for the noise and check the oil regularly, I thought it was odd that I ran out of oil that fast. I have the 1.6 turbo 2019 limited.
My car is still at the dealer, waiting for an engine from Korea- Driving a new Ultimate as a loaner, lol so the wait continues...
 

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DO NOT again DO NOT except a short block rebuild that keeps your cylinder head, especially with the classic "Hyundai Tick of Death". The tick is metal debris that made it up into the lifters that bypassed the filter during start ups and full throttle events where your oil filter by-pass valve opens up. The debris is coming from galled up piston skirts and THEN bearing material. Winter and cold start ups this happen more. Even if the filter did not go into by-pass ( which it did and does), small micron aluminum debris will make it past the filter in large numbers to destroy the engine at that point. From nano through 70 micron, depending on the filter beta.

When my 2013 Hyundai 1.8 got the "Hyundai Tick of Death" from galled up pistons at 14,000 miles. They wanted to only replace the block, I said NO WAY are you doing that. Many engine builder will not keep a head if the engine sent a load of aluminum debris through it. They have been burned too many times with a load of debris that the machine shop did not get out of the head and damaged the engine again. The service manager agreed to get me a long block because I think he knew I was right. I would of brought in an attorney's letter that I would not accept an engine without a new head. It's up to you, but I would fight this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well- I finally got my Kona back, today. After a really long trip, a new engine arrived from the factory in Korea and was installed. It purred like a kitten on start-up and the drive home was problem free. Now comes the time and mileage test to see if all continues to go well. Although the dealer, during periodic calls to update me, kept referring to "the new engine" that was coming, I noticed on the paperwork that the words "short block" were in the parts list. The diagnosed problem was "severe scoring of the #2 cylinder". So we'll drive it and see what happens. They said to return at 3700 miles for an oil change, but to be safe, I'll get it done at 500, to remove whatever particulates that may have been left behind (if it really was in fact, a short block rebuild); then again at 3000. Hopefully that will prolong the new engine's life span.
Side note: The dealer gave me a new Ultimate turbo to drive as a loaner. After 2 months of use, I can say I was glad to get my 2.0 engine with the CVT back. The power transfer to the wheels is smooth and positive. The transmission in the Ultimate turbo was slow to respond, often engaging with a jerk when placed in Drive or Reverse or between the two, and the shifting while driving was very noticeable, like a clutch and manual combo. I didn't really enjoy the experience, but to each his or her own!

Stay safe, all! 😁:cool:
 

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Well- I finally got my Kona back, today. After a really long trip, a new engine arrived from the factory in Korea and was installed. It purred like a kitten on start-up and the drive home was problem free. Now comes the time and mileage test to see if all continues to go well. Although the dealer, during periodic calls to update me, kept referring to "the new engine" that was coming, I noticed on the paperwork that the words "short block" were in the parts list. The diagnosed problem was "severe scoring of the #2 cylinder". So we'll drive it and see what happens. They said to return at 3700 miles for an oil change, but to be safe, I'll get it done at 500, to remove whatever particulates that may have been left behind (if it really was in fact, a short block rebuild); then again at 3000. Hopefully that will prolong the new engine's life span.
Side note: The dealer gave me a new Ultimate turbo to drive as a loaner. After 2 months of use, I can say I was glad to get my 2.0 engine with the CVT back. The power transfer to the wheels is smooth and positive. The transmission in the Ultimate turbo was slow to respond, often engaging with a jerk when placed in Drive or Reverse or between the two, and the shifting while driving was very noticeable, like a clutch and manual combo. I didn't really enjoy the experience, but to each his or her own!

Stay safe, all! 😁:cool:
You may have gotten a long block, but the with Hyundai the short block comes separate most of the time, and they ship a bare head and all its parts that can't be used off the metal ridden old head. The mechanic then puts together the head and then mounts it to the short block.

Smart idea on changing out the oil at 500 miles. There are really fine metal shavings that pass right through the oil filter, especially the OEM one, you don't want those flowing through your oil at a high number like they do on a new motor.
 

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Hi-
New to the forum, with a weird engine problem.
I got my Kona in March of '20, and love it! Everything has been fine, regular service at dealer- until 2 weeks ago, when I realized that the engine was quite noisy on the way from work. No "dummy" light activation, but the distinct clatter of valves. I checked the oil after letting it sit all night at home, and it was barely touching the tip of the stick! Not what I expected for a car with just over 6k miles on it!
I immediately called the dealer and before taking it up, added 2 full qts of oil, to be safe.
They did an oil change and started an oil consumption test on the vehicle, having me drive normally and check levels each week. 1st week, and all looks good. I live in DC and drive 2 miles r/t to work, so decided to take a little drive to an antique mall in Gettysburg PA. All fine on the way up, but shortly after heading home, an "engine system failure " message appeared on the media screen, and the dummy light lit on the instrument cluster.
I pulled over immediately and used the Blue Link to contact the dealer. Drove it straight there, and it was diagnosed with a PC valve failure.
I went to dealer today to pick up the repaired vehicle, and immediately noticed a loud ticking noise coming the engine after starting up.
Went back to service writer, and he and the mechanic came out and took a listen. Left the car at dealer again, after mechanic thought the problem was caused by a "slapping piston" due to a possible defective cylinder, which could have accounted for the oil loss.
They called me later in the day to confirm that diagnosis, and tell me they were going to replace the "bottom part" (block?) of the engine.
I hope this doesn't foretell of cascading issues afterwards, but we'll have to wait and see.
In the meantime, at least they gave me a brand new Ultimate to drive, lol.
Sorry for the lengthy story, but wondering if others have had an issue like this?
I am currently having the same issue. I have a 2020 SLE. Bought with 1200 miles on it in oct. I noticed a knocking noise when I would start the car. Took the car to dealership. They said it was the gasoline fuel injectors.( I drove a Prius before so going from a quiet car to noise is weird.) last week I noticed a weird noise when I would turn and also when idling it sounded like I was driving a diesel or a tractor. Next day my engine light came on. Called dealer to get car in to get checked. Next day after that the car barely started so I backed out of driveway and drove straight to the dealer. On the way there I noticed the car was having problems shifting gears and problems accelerating. At the next light the car went black and just shut off. Got a tow to the dealer and am currently waiting for diagnostics. Any thoughts?
 

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Have had the same problem with 2020 Kona Go 2.0L at 14,000km, still waiting on car after 6 weeks which has had a new engine dropped in after alleged minor piston ring failure. Made terrible tappet noise, just before first full service, brief flash of oil warning light before engine siezed and was undrivable. NO oil on dipstick at all. Dealer refusing to reset warranty on new engine or answer details on car rego transfer with a new engine. Was offered a courtesy car after duress but only if I paid $5000 excess if had an accident or damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You may have gotten a long block, but the with Hyundai the short block comes separate most of the time, and they ship a bare head and all its parts that can't be used off the metal ridden old head. The mechanic then puts together the head and then mounts it to the short block.

Smart idea on changing out the oil at 500 miles. There are really fine metal shavings that pass right through the oil filter, especially the OEM one, you don't want those flowing through your oil at a high number like they do on a new motor.
Thanks for the info. I'm at about 350 miles on the new parts. I checked the oil yesterday and it looked good. I didn't see any tell- tale "sparkles" of fine metal shavings in it, and it felt ok rubbing between my fingers. That, however, still doesn't rule out micro particles that still may exist., so going in for the oil change next Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Have had the same problem with 2020 Kona Go 2.0L at 14,000km, still waiting on car after 6 weeks which has had a new engine dropped in after alleged minor piston ring failure. Made terrible tappet noise, just before first full service, brief flash of oil warning light before engine siezed and was undrivable. NO oil on dipstick at all. Dealer refusing to reset warranty on new engine or answer details on car rego transfer with a new engine. Was offered a courtesy car after duress but only if I paid $5000 excess if had an accident or damage.
Wow- so sorry you've had this problem. Sounds like a really bad dealer. I would attempt to contact Hyundai directly, or go to a different dealer.
 
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