Auto transmission still has gears. The word "gear" is used interchangeably with "speeds".
So the 7DC has 7 "gears" or "speeds" that are changed by the electronics rather than the driver w/ a manual clutch.

I have noticed this as well but it does not bother me.
Essentially the car does not like to be in 1st and pushes to be in 2nd all the time (for fuel efficiency, better torque ratios for power, etc). So when you are rolling around 10-20kph, the car is not really sure what you are trying to do and jumps back and forth all the time between 1 and 2.

 

thanks for the reply. so what would I notice while driving 10-20kph?

 

The only way to experience the feeling is to test drive.

 

You would think that with this kind of ongoing public feedback they would sort out the DCT?? Other cars with DCT aren't this bad so why is the Kona version?

 

I don't know. that's what i'm asking

 

Personally, unless one of the clutches is slipping due to premature wear, I think the issue is overstated. But it may be because I drive a manual as my daily, so I'm used to having to feather the clutch to smooth engagement from a stop in heavy traffic. If your experience is mostly/entirely with a torque converter automatic, then the experience will taking getting used to. Volkswagen uses a DCT for the Golf R and GTI that is lauded by auto journalists but bucks at low speed, as well.

My wife did mention this behavior while on an incline in heavy traffic. I tell her to not try to maintain the gap between the car in front of her, to instead let the car in front give enough space so you're fully engaged in 1st gear, like I do in my manual.

 

I don't know anything about turbo, how do I use it? does it kick in automatically when the car reaches a certain speed or RPM? or is it always on? googling this only gives me how the mechanics work.

 

You don't do anything to use a turbo except drive the car. A turbo has a turbine that spins from the exhaust gases produced by the engine. You know those plastic pinwheels that you blow onto to make it spin, and the more air you blow the faster the pinwheel spins? The pinwheel is the turbo, and the blowing of air is coming from the engine. The more you push the gas pedal, the more air is going into the engine (like you inhaling into your lungs) and thus the more exhaust gas (you exhaling) is blowing into the turbo, and thus the faster the turbo spins thus making more power.

 

ok so if turbo is used at all times, then what exactly is turbo lag?

 

Turbo lag is the time between mashing the throttle and feeling the rush of torque from a turbocharged engine. The lag comes from the time it takes the engine to create enough exhaust pressure to spin the turbo and pump compressed intake air into the engine and is longest when the engine is in a low-rpm, low-load cruising situation.
If you’re wondering why somebody doesn’t make a turbo that makes full boost from idle on up to redline, there’s a very simple answer for that: like all engine parts, a turbo has to be matched to a specific rpm range to function correctly. A turbo that’s small enough to make a significant amount of boost under low-rpm situations would overspeed and possibly explode as soon as full throttle was hit. The opposite is also true—a turbocharger that makes the most peak power will make virtually no boost until well into the engine’s powerband. Most turbo setups are a compromise between these two scenarios.

What Is Turbo Lag? And How Do You Get Rid Of It?

Turbo lag is the time between mashing the throttle and feeling the rush of torque from a turbocharged engine. How do you get rid of it?

www.hotrod.com

 

ok thanks for that. another question is, I am an average person who doesn't know anything about cars except how to drive using auto transmission. Should I be buying a car with a turbo charged engine? Apparently there are many things you can't do in one if you want the car to last a descent amount of time. Take a look at this video. I don't understand anything the guy said. Would a person have to follow all these things when driving a turbo charged car?

 

Though that video has good points, a turbocharged engine, properly maintained should last well over 100k miles. The decision of for or against turbo charged engines is more about how you drive, and what you can afford. If you enjoy gobbs of low end, tire spinning power, a turbo is a way to go. Not saying you cannot do the same with a non-turbo charged engine, its just a bit harder without increasing displacement (engine size). The turbo model is more expensive initially do to added parts, and a strong engine build. Good news is the Kona does not require premium gas like most turbo engine do. What they have done is changed the timing, and used colder spark plugs to reduce whats called detonation. Detonation is exactly what it sounds like, it's when you get ignition before the spark plug fires, and before the cylinder hits the top of its stroke. If you intend to get the turbo model, its recommended to get a quality 5w-40 oil, instead of the 5w-30 recommend from factory, for a bit more protection, as recommended by all Hyundai performance aftermarket companies. Gas mileage is the same of better on a turbo vehicle, if you drive like a regular person. If you enjoy the increased power of a turbo vehicle, and plant your foot on the accelerator more, your gas mileage will surely decrease accordingly.

 

ok thanks, that's helpful. but the question I have to consider is, if I don't plan on doing all those things the video says to do and not to do, should I buy a car with a non-turbocharged engine? I don't want to buy a turbocharged engine and screw it up.

 

There are many proponents of Turbo/Super Chargers, GDi (Gasoline Direct Engines), DCT (Dual Clutch Transmissions), etc.
Look around this board and you will find various opinions, including some people who have had to replace their DCT transmissions with less than 10k miles.
Each of these technologies adds complexity and along with that the potential for problems. Your 10/100000 mile warranty should cover most of these problems should they arise.
Since I had an older Hyundai with GDI and DCT, I was very happy to sell it when the used 60k mile warranty was up since it did not like creeping in NJ stop and go traffic. My 2019 Kona is an SEL and does not have a turbo, DCT, or GDI engine.
You might wish to look at some of Scotty Kilmer's videos on these technologies and also read other's experiences before making a decision.

scotty kilmer dct - Search Videos

www.bing.com

scotty kilmer gdi - Search Videos

www.bing.com

scotty kilmer turbo - Search Videos

www.bing.com

Admittedly, Scotty would have you buy a 1993 celica. Your choice.

 

To me, a stand still acceleration seems laggy, but driving acceleration that turbo really kicks in, she zips.

As long as im not drag racing, its not a problem lol

My other car is a 2008 Dodge SRT Charger, so thats what i noticed and why i wouldnt get a small engine without a turbo.

 

A turbocharged car takes no additional knowledge to own and operate. Forced induction (turbo and superchargers) tech has been around for decades. I doubt most owners of turbocharged vehicles are even aware.

Turbos aren't just for performance. Many automakers are using forced induction in everyday cars to achieve fuel economy standards or to get more horsepower out of a smaller engine due to the lower weight (which helps fuel economy) and, in some countries, to avoid a displacement tax (larger the engine, the larger the tax).

 

Honestly, I think a lot of your questions and concerns will be answered by test driving both. I think it will really come down to your budget and which drives "better" to you. If you don't mind how the DCT behaves, like the extra power from the turbo, and can afford it, then you should consider it. Hyundai has the long warranty for a reason.

 

I looked at the specs of the Kona and it doesn't say it has either the GDI or the DCT. do you know what it has?

 

Depends on model. Higher trims have DCT and GDI. Do your research!

 

ok specs say its GDI

 

If you just want a reliable car without all the extras, costs, maintenance requirements, get one of the two lower trims. SEL or SE. test them and see what fits your needs

 

Wow.. How do you know the higher trim cars are Less reliable ? Can you cite some proof please ? How much more in maintenance is there for the higher trim Levels ?
I and others would gladly change their oil a bit earlier for the added performance and “Fun Factor“ of the Turbo version !! For those looking for more than mere transportation, The turbo/DCT is FUN to drive.. Sorry.. but for me.. you can’t put a price on enjoyment !! Life is short.. too short to settle for saving a few dollars when you can have hours of entertainment behind the wheel for not much more.. Nothing wrong with spoiling yourself with a some extras.. that’s fine if you just want to go from point a to b as cheaply as possible.. but telling others that the higher trims are unreliable and too costly, is way off base..

 

so GDI/DCT turbo engines have problems in general?

 

Extra technology brings with it additional maintenance,repair, etc. It does not sound like your needs would be met by buying the higher trim levels which come with turbo, GDI, and DCT since you value reliability over performance. It's a matter of personal preference. I can tell you that if you consider leather seats, a heads up display, much larger tires, built in navigation, wireless phone recharging (although that may now be available in the SEL or SEL plus level), you will need to buy the more expensive models. Realize that the ultimate model (top of the line) with all the niceties brings with it a price tag in the neighborhood of $30,000. For me, that is too high a price to pay for this level of SUV, and I would shop CRV\Rav4 models, or maybe Toyota Highlander.
I'm a leisurely driver, rarely go about 70 mph, never jack rabbit start, or try to out accelerate mustangs and BMW's. Speed, engine roar, an extra inch of infotainment system screen, built in navigation, automatic climate control and automatic high beams are features that hold little value to me. I spent the extra money on a bumper to bumper 10yr/100,000 mile warranty instead of just the powertrain, along with 3 yrs complimentary maintenance, some fancy seat protector which repairs rips and tears and spills, and i was out the door at 25k with just about every safety feature, sunroof, and gap protection in case the car is destroyed in an accident to cover the difference between what i owe and what the insurance company will pay out.
My only concerns are brakes, tires, and wipers.
Regardless of what you choose, the warranty will cover those expensive parts on the higher trim lines for quite sometime so the risk seems small. It's just that the benefit for me is not worth the extra coin. If i wanted all of these luxury items and more i would have bought a Mercedes or BMW so that i can get a free snapple while i wait for them to repair my fine german automobile!

 

Extra technology brings with it additional maintenance,repair, etc. It does not sound like your needs would be met by buying the higher trim levels which come with turbo, GDI, and DCT since you value reliability over performance. It's a matter of personal preference. I can tell you that if you consider leather seats, a heads up display, much larger tires, built in navigation, wireless phone recharging (although that may now be available in the SEL or SEL plus level), you will need to buy the more expensive models. Realize that the ultimate model (top of the line) with all the niceties brings with it a price tag in the neighborhood of $30,000. For me, that is too high a price to pay for this level of SUV, and I would shop CRV\Rav4 models, or maybe Toyota Highlander.
I'm a leisurely driver, rarely go about 70 mph, never jack rabbit start, or try to out accelerate mustangs and BMW's. Speed, engine roar, an extra inch of infotainment system screen, built in navigation, automatic climate control and automatic high beams are features that hold little value to me. I spent the extra money on a bumper to bumper 10yr/100,000 mile warranty instead of just the powertrain, along with 3 yrs complimentary maintenance, some fancy seat protector which repairs rips and tears and spills, and i was out the door at 25k with just about every safety feature, sunroof, and gap protection in case the car is destroyed in an accident to cover the difference between what i owe and what the insurance company will pay out.
My only concerns are brakes, tires, and wipers.
Regardless of what you choose, the warranty will cover those expensive parts on the higher trim lines for quite sometime so the risk seems small. It's just that the benefit for me is not worth the extra coin. If i wanted all of these luxury items and more i would have bought a Mercedes or BMW so that i can get a free snapple while i wait for them to repair my fine german automobile!

And that is exactly why Hyundai makes 4 different models of gasoline engine Kona's. While your desires to go from place to place as cheaply, as possible is understandable, maybe even laudable, it certainly is not our desire.

We carefully shopped, and once we test drove the two different engine/transmission combinations, there was no question which side we were going to fall, and it would be one of the top two models. Further evaluation showed that the differences between the top 2 models would be of little value for us, so we bought the Limited. The only technology that we could see that might be troublesome in the Kona Ultimate was the way the HUD was implemented. The moving screen, just didn't look to us to be well designed and long term reliable. Time will tell, and I certainly hope it is not an issue.

Every single time I get in the Kona and drive it, I'm impressed again with the performance and features in the price class. Nothing comes even close in my opinion.

 

I have the 1.6 with DCT. For me it's extremely noticeable that you have a dual clutch. It stumbles a lot at low speeds and even jerks from time to time. But, it also seems to behave almost exactly like a manual transmission. Except I don't have a worn out left leg from clutching in and clutching out. In traffic I stop a little longer and don't "ride the clutch" as much. If I need to take off at a redlight or stop for some reason; manual mode in 1st gear. Everything above that it shifts and handles like a sports car.

So, in traffic it absolutely takes some getting used to and may not be for everyone. But for someone like me who wants the performance of a WRX, with the storage of a crosstrek and the technology like Lane Keep assist. This car is **** near perfect.

 

One other point.. I’ve always been a Less is More kind of guy.. So I avoided the frills and weight whenever I bought a sports/performance car.. Nowadays.. ALL trim levels are equipped with ABS,EBD,TCS, etc ... MOST of the frills being offered are based on those existing systems. It takes little more than a chip and some solid state sensors to add many high end features.. No weight penalties, proven reliability.. Might as well enjoy it !
or not...

 

All I can go by is the number of people reporting problems on this forum with the DCT needing replacement with extremely low mileage.
add to it the fact that the two most reliable car companies do not use DCT’s, and the very obvious observation that the more complex the technology the more likely it is to fail. It’s called common sense and years of experience. It’s your money. Do with it as you will. Life is not that short that it’s worth pissing away thousands on mere frivolities like HUD, etc.
For me a car is transportation from A to B.
when I want thrills, I look at my bank account!

 

So all 3 or 4 people who had issues with their Kona DCT is what you call an obvious observation? Many posts on the subject but the ACTUAL number of people affected are single digits..
so by your analogy, all our complex computers and phones should fail and are not reliable because of their complexities. Ok, got it.

All I can go by is the number of people reporting problems on this forum with the DCT needing replacement with extremely low mileage.
add to it the fact that the two most reliable car companies do not use DCT’s, and the very obvious observation that the more complex the technology the more likely it is to fail. It’s called common sense and years of experience. It’s your money. Do with it as you will. Life is not that short that it’s worth pissing away thousands on mere frivolities like HUD, etc.
For me a car is transportation from A to B.
when I want thrills, I look at my bank account!

 

As to Bad-Papa’s second posting. Your statements are anecdotal. It’s a well known fact that GDI engines clog and carbonize the valves because of the design. Doubtful Hyundai will pay to decarbonize but you let us know!
the DCT is extremely complex compared to a slush box with torque converter. Additional mechanical parts, more computer controls, and added weight.
Ask the service department what a replacement turbo costs not under warranty? I could care less what you choose. For ME! There is No compelling reason to throw 5G away. May you be as happy with your model as I will be with mine ?

 

As to Bad-Papa’s second posting. Your statements are anecdotal. It’s a well known fact that GDI engines clog and carbonize the valves because of the design. Doubtful Hyundai will pay to decarbonize but you let us know!
the DCT is extremely complex compared to a slush box with torque converter. Additional mechanical parts, more computer controls, and added weight.
Ask the service department what a replacement turbo costs not under warranty? I could care less what you choose. For ME! There is No compelling reason to throw 5G away. May you be as happy with your model as I will be with mine ?

This is an inaccurate representation of the DCT. The DCT is smaller, and lighter then the slushbox you enjoy/ Though a tad more complex, because of the dual clutches, the actual gearing is simpler then the 6 speed in design, and doesn't have the issues conventional automatic clutch packs have. And you cant make the assumption the Nu engines is any better then the Gamma engine. The Nu is notorious for excessive wear issues, fires, ocv failures, ring land damage and weak timing tensioners, and my favorite, piston slap. If you think about it, an OE turbocharged engine is built to be a stronger and more reliable engine then a non-forced induction engine, simply because of the amount of abuse it needs to stand up too. But good luck either way.

 

Arguing in a vacuum. While u race to the next red light ahead of me by 1.5 seconds hoping your DCT clutches are covered by the warranty obviously you must be quite concerned by the large number of failed DCT, not just in Hyundai but Ford, VW.
yes they are slightly different but they are all much more complex than my conventional auto. Why did Tucson not offer DCT? Why does Sportage use conventional tranny? I owned a DCT for 3 yrs waiting to get rid of it when 5/60 was up as it groaned, shuttered in stop and go NJ traffic.
Wait for the first time you step on the gas and the tach goes up and you don’t.
I will wave at you Hope your other car is a corolla.

 

Well then be happy you don’t own a DCT. That doesn’t mean everyone who does own one is wrong or will have issues.

Arguing in a vacuum. While u race to the next red light ahead of me by 1.5 seconds hoping your DCT clutches are covered by the warranty obviously you must be quite concerned by the large number of failed DCT, not just in Hyundai but Ford, VW.
yes they are slightly different but they are all much more complex than my conventional auto. Why did Tucson not offer DCT? Why does Sportage use conventional tranny? I owned a DCT for 3 yrs waiting to get rid of it when 5/60 was up as it groaned, shuttered in stop and go NJ traffic.
Wait for the first time you step on the gas and the tach goes up and you don’t.
I will wave at you Hope your other car is a corolla.